Recommend a light shell jacket for multi pitch

I’m looking for a lightweight jacket with more weather protection than a Houdini.

What’s the go-to choice for a  waterproof shell jacket that stuffs into its own pocket with carabiner coupon loop and weighs under 8 ounces? Something for those days where rain isn’t expected but appears a few pitches up. 

If you are bailing from just a few pitches up the newest houdini should be plenty weatherproof, if you are after something more substantial the montane minimus is a good lightweight option. 

OR Helium Rain Shell? I have an older one, and although it does eventually wet out and it's not stretchy enough to climb in comfortably for a long time, it fits what you're searching for and gets the job done.  They go on sale regularly too (I think I paid $60 for mine a couple years back).

I would tend to agree with Seb though on using a windshell in lieu of a hardshell/rainshell.  If really bad weather is forecasted, stay home.  If it's just a passing squall or a light drizzle, a windshell like the Houdini would probably be enough

The OR Ferrosi is a great soft shell that provides some weather protection and is very durable. It takes about an hour of light rain for mine to wet through.

Any rain jacket or water proof jacket or shell wont be very durable for rock climbing. I wouldnt clip one to my harness or climb in it unless I had to. If you get any holes its not very waterproof anymore right? That said, the Helium is great, but I traded it for the Montbell Versalite and I love it.

Raidlight tyvek jacket— <4oz, ~$25. Anything reasonably light will get trashed if you actually climb in it, but at least this way it doesn’t hurt the wallet too much.

What damage have you guys experienced climbing in your shells? I have been trying to destroy my Alpine Houdini (no longer made, waterproof, 30 denier) for years now with limited success. It's gone through full-on chimneying it in Red Rocks, jamming sleeves into offwidths at the Creek, resting ice tools on it, skiing with it through trees, and the most I've seen is some fuzziness near the cuffs and a 2 inch hole on one sleeve that I patched with tenacious tape.

I think the next step up for Patagonia is the M10.

Oh yeah, they discontinued it five years ago...

Anyone know what the M10 replacement is?

The Mammut Nordwand Light HS is really awesome. 

Rexford Nesakwatch wrote:

I think the next step up for Patagonia is the M10.

Oh yeah, they discontinued it five years ago...

Anyone know what the M10 replacement is?

Storm10, 3 layer, 20 denier, ~8 oz

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

To expand on my search criteria, I'm looking for the lightest, most packable version of a true rain shell. Durability isn't a concern. Stretch would be nice.

The Mammut Nordwand and OR Helium look promising. Does BD have any similar offerings?

Any thoughts on the Mammut Aenergy WB?

Crotch Robbins wrote:

Any thoughts on the Mammut Aenergy WB?

I don't believe this is a rain shell, it looks more like a windbreaker type thing.  

The Nordwand is super packable, which is what I really like about it.  When stuffed into its stuff sack, it is about the size of my fist.  I haven't come across another hardshell (in production) with reasonable rain/wind protection that packs down that small.  

The HMG Shell jacket is sick, but is sadly out of production.

James C wrote:

What damage have you guys experienced climbing in your shells? 

Holes.

Try granite.

I use the OR Helium and really like it for this application. Super lightweight, I can clip it to my harness rear gear loop and hardly know its there. If you are doing a lot of chimneying then yeah, you would want to put it somewhere that it wouldn't get thrashed, but if you are doing a lot of chimneying you should expect anything on you to get thrashed. I typically don't actually climb with it on - I'll wear it at belays if it is slightly chilly, or if it starts to rain and its time to go down. Its also my go-to shell layer to pack if I anticipate good weather but know there is a chance of brief rain, so basically all summer in Colorado. Climbing, scrambling, hiking, backpacking whatever. For most summer CO days, its pretty rare that I bring a heavier rain jacket, but I almost always have my helium. I will say that OR has seemed to update it a couple times over the past couple years, and maybe it isn't the same level of waterproofing as before? Worth a call to ask.

I've seen a couple jackets that come close to the same level of weight and protection as the OR helium, but haven't tried any of them myself. A buddy of mine had one by Marmot I think, but it wasn't quite as light. BD used to make the fineline jacket, but it looks like its been discontinued, as it is all sold out and the only ones available are on the outlet page. It may have gotten replaced by the alpine start hoody but not sure if that is as waterproof, or if it is more of a softshell.

Finally this page seems to have a decent table comparing lightweight rain jackets - looking at the 6 oz category, there are only a couple options.

Houdini. . . 'nuff said.

BD Alpine start hoody is literally the best ever. Ever.

Crotch Robbins wrote:

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

To expand on my search criteria, I'm looking for the lightest, most packable version of a true rain shell. Durability isn't a concern. Stretch would be nice.

The Mammut Nordwand and OR Helium look promising. Does BD have any similar offerings?

Any thoughts on the Mammut Aenergy WB?

I have the Mammut Aenergy WB and it is so light that I bring it everywhere when climbing/hiking and even have it as my main weather protection layer during warmer weather climbing in the sierras (alpine and cragging). It is not designed as a waterproof jacket but I have been caught in rainstorms in it (light to medium showers) and it protects me fine. It has the Pertex Equilibrium fabric which you do not find in any stateside jackets - super breathable but protects from light weather. In light showers, it beads off water fine and in medium showers the rain eventually overpowers the DWR (I make sure to re-apply it periodically) but it will help you bail from that multipitch (which I have done in many times). Out of all of the jackets mentioned in this thread (except for the Nordwand and BD alpine start) it actually is built for climbing. The hood fits over helmets great and has reinforced areas under the arms that will brush up against rock. It folds into itself and has a carabiner loop, as well as a double front zipper where it can open from the bottom for belaying etc...

In the winter, it will only be useful as a wind layer. A true rainshell would be the Mammut Nordwand. I would not really look at the OR helium or Patagonia Houdini if having a helmet compatible hood matters for you. They are good hiking shells however.

If you can find it, Patagonia Houdini Alpine is pretty neat - 2.5 Layer rainshell that fits over helmets. You can find some on worn wear if it your size.

https://zpacks.com/products/vertice-rain-jacket

Dimitri Duma wrote:

I have the Mammut Aenergy WB and it is so light that I bring it everywhere when climbing/hiking and even have it as my main weather protection layer during warmer weather climbing in the sierras (alpine and cragging). It is not designed as a waterproof jacket but I have been caught in rainstorms in it (light to medium showers) and it protects me fine. It has the Pertex Equilibrium fabric which you do not find in any stateside jackets - super breathable but protects from light weather. In light showers, it beads off water fine and in medium showers the rain eventually overpowers the DWR (I make sure to re-apply it periodically) but it will help you bail from that multipitch (which I have done in many times). Out of all of the jackets mentioned in this thread (except for the Nordwand and BD alpine start) it actually is built for climbing. The hood fits over helmets great and has reinforced areas under the arms that will brush up against rock. It folds into itself and has a carabiner loop, as well as a double front zipper where it can open from the bottom for belaying etc...

In the winter, it will only be useful as a wind layer. A true rainshell would be the Mammut Nordwand. I would not really look at the OR helium or Patagonia Houdini if having a helmet compatible hood matters for you. They are good hiking shells however.

If you can find it, Patagonia Houdini Alpine is pretty neat - 2.5 Layer rainshell that fits over helmets. You can find some on worn wear if it your size.

Great feedback about the Aenergy WB. Thank you!

Rab Kinetic 2.0 - fully waterproof, breathable, flexible material and cut, and a hood that accommodates a helmet.

At a slightly heavier 9oz instead of 8, the Rab Latok Paclite jacket might be worth looking into. 

B Donovan wrote:

Rab Kinetic 2.0 - fully waterproof, breathable, flexible material and cut, and a hood that accommodates a helmet.

I was going to mention this one too.  Tried it on in a shop when I was in Wales, seemed like good gear.  But $$$ though