Alpine Ice in October?

So I read in Rossiter's (2015) RMNP guidebook that "By October the first serious snowfall comes and windows of opportunity for rock climbing are rare; however, the alpine ice gullies are at their best. It gets cold in November and the winter ice forms up" (emphasis added; 12). Is this still the case?

If so, what conditions might we find in, say, gullies around Taylor or Andrews glaciers?  Chasm Lake outlet? Dragons Tooth?

Thanks for any insight you can offer. (If you can't tell, I'm hoping for some beginner mixed climbing.)

peace,

Marco

Yep! We ticked AMU on Nov 20th last year (primo conditions before the avy season set in).

Did a bunch of ice climbing throughout the front range last year October-December.  Conditions are often good if you are willing to take the tools for a walk. 

I've been told that the Cables route comes into condition as a mixed climb as early as late September, can anyone confirm or deny? Or know what other specific routes could be done in Oct?

Not entirely sure what "being in condition as a mixed climb" means since technically you can drytool sans ice...

I've been collecting photos of that face and it basically has looked the same since the Sept ~13 snowfall.

9/16

9/17 (north face is on the left) 

Today 9/25

Shameless plug: I'm also looking to get a good alpine ice season in this fall before avy kicks in. Didn't get one last year because I only started leading ice last winter when avy season had already started. Now I'll lead easy ice (wi3 in good condition) and very easy mixed (m2-3) very slowly, tentatively and with openness to bail; and very happy to follow harder. I need partners who are willing to get out there for long, suffery, but safe-as-possible days with no guarantee that we'll even get to climb. text me 650-996-5364 if interested! 

Free to climb Thursday or Friday Ellen? 

I'm bumping this thread in hopes someone can offer beta about possible ice/mixed routes in the park that might be coming into condition soon.

And/or: what are routes like Martha, Dreamweaver, etc. apt to look like in the next week or so?

(Coming from out of town, otherwise I'd go look myself, which we'll probably have to do anyway.)

thanks,

Marco

See my post in Colorado ice climbing fb

Thanks, Ellen. 

Anyone know a good way to find an ice climbing mentor, trying to round out my mountaineering/learn, figured those in this thread may be able to point the right direction, thanks!