Mountaineering Boot Quiver?
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Does anyone have any information on the range of terrain different Scarpa mountaineering boots are appropriate for? I'm trying to build a quiver thats got a broad range of terrain without buying their whole catalog. When are the Ribelle Techs appropriate? How much overlap is there with the Phantom 6000s, Phantom Tech HDs and the Zodiac Techs? |
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I’d start with an objective and buy for that. If you want to ice climb in the lower 48 phantom techs are probably fine. If you want to do Denali or Peru then get the 6000s. If you buy gear randomly it will gather dust. |
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The phantom techs work the best for the broadest range of conditions, as was said about you only need a 6000m boot if you plan on denali or big mountain winter objectives. Regarding ribelle techs, for the majority of people they are summer boots, really mainly made for Europe where you are spending a lot of time on glaciers and snowy peaks but it's still pretty warm. |
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https://climberkyle.com/2020/09/15/footwear-in-the-cascades/ is a good overview of different technical footwear out there. Not really Cascades specific. |
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Nick Fasciano wrote: In order of weight/warmth these would go: Zodiacs, Ribelle, Tech, 6k. The Zodiac is a lightweight summer boot, awesome for mellow/moderate glaciers, steep snow, very easy ice, and easy rock climbing. I use mine a lot in the Cascades in the summer on routes that might have snow/ice that is too serious for approach shoes (Torment-Forbidden Traverse, Frostbite Ridge, NW Face Forbidden, Fisher Chimneys, etc.). The Tech is a fully rigid winter/ice boot. It's generally warm enough for anything in the lower 48 and great in steep technical terrain. I use mine for any ice/mixed cragging (Hyalite, Ouray, Valdez, etc.) and technical winter climbing where I'm not wearing ski boots (Hood, Rainier, etc.). Edit: An alternative to the Tech is something like the Mont Blanc, which is an insulated fully rigid single boot (same class as the Nepal Evo). They are heavier than the Tech, and not quite as warm, but much more durable and often less expensive. Definitely worth considering, especially if you are going to be tough on your boots. The 6000 is for high altitude technical climbing. |
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Someone shared this with me and it’s infinitely helpful.
https://youtu.be/tl74cQD7AL8?si=QbQT9PuTcrMVFJ5x Ryan also covers the basic set up with La Spo boots if that helps. Good reference.
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I feel like I have said quiver and the phantom tech has far and away been the best workhorse boot imo. It can take place of any single mountaineering boot. They climb ice/snow/rock well, walk well, relatively light, and are warmer & drier than most other single boots. I use mine for almost all winter and spring objectives in CO and Washington. I also have the Ribelle Tech 2.0s, and they are kind of a focused hybrid summer boot that I thought I'd actually use more, but I don't. They have been nice in the Bugaboos and some Teton climbs that involve some type of snow. I've climbed couliors with them in Colorado such as the Notch, and they have been a good boot for that too. If I can get away with using a trail runner or approach shoe though, I would, before breaking out the Ribelle's. Super cool boot though. The 6k double boots have actually not really seen any action since Denali and Aconcagua and are collecting dust. I did ice climb with them a few years ago and they were nice and toasty but felt clunky on my feet. Double boots in the lower 48 for the most part are overkill. |