Crack machine build question: which widths would you choose?

Building a suspended crack trainer. Suspended as in simulating a roof crack. It will have fixed widths and I’m thinking I could manage fitting 3-4 different widths. Which widths would you choose and why? Ie: thin hands, wide fists, etc?

My goal is general fitness and technique training that will serve me anywhere I might venture to.

Thanks! 

If you have three or so widths maybe you could warp the boards at the transitions to create some more 'off' sizes.

What are your route goals?

If you're competent at hands, don't waste wood on a perfect hands size.

By the same token, a dead horizontal roof with no feet is going to be properly hard in anything from #0.3 to #1.0 sizes. A route involving that for at least a bodylength would likely clock in at 5.12c and up.

My last crack trainer was in 2013 and if I did it again, I'd make a crack hangboard and add weight as needed.

I could use the wider bordering widths for feet if I had a width for fingers don’t you think?

Wide fists are a more technique and pain tolerance, thin hands, paddle hands and cupped hands are the best sizes for roof training. I would only put in butterfly stacks or hand fist stacks if you plan on doing a specific route.

Scott Hinkins wrote:

I could use the wider bordering widths for feet if I had a width for fingers don’t you think?

You mean like footjamming a section of #3.0's whilst you thumbstack a section of #0.5's parallel to it? Yeah, I could see that.

Knowing your approximate crack skill level and intended goals will help the almighty peanut gallery make recommendations.

F r i t z wrote:

You mean like footjamming a section of #3.0's whilst you thumbstack a section of #0.5's parallel to it? Yeah, I could see that.

Knowing your approximate crack skill level and intended goals will help the almighty peanut gallery make recommendations.

:) I’d say I’m an “advanced beginner”. Aside from gym reps on the not quite fist crack there , the only outdoor crack climbing I’ve done to speak of was in Yosemite a few months ago. I climbed a multi on cathedral and some other single pitch stuff. I plan on establishing some route goals once visiting places like smith rock and Indian creek here in the states. So my goal now is to become strong and adaptable with some decent technique as a foundation. 

Surely you've watched the wide boyz vid in the cellar  with Ondra.

use 3/8"x10" carriage bolts, nuts and washers to make the crack adjustable.  my crack trainer is vertical, not horizontal, but the width is adjustable every 14", between .5" and 6".  

Basically just two 2x6x8' boards with a 10" carriage bolt every 14", or so.  You can also use a 3rd board to make two parallel cracks of different widths.  I've been really surprised how much I like training with it, and how realistic the tempo feels if you rope solo it while placing gear, clipping the rope, and lowering down from the rafters.  Hope some of this helps...

J I wrote:

use 3/8"x10" carriage bolts, nuts and washers to make the crack adjustable.  my crack trainer is vertical, not horizontal, but the width is adjustable every 14", between .5" and 6".  

Basically just two 2x6x8' boards with a 10" carriage bolt every 14", or so.  You can also use a 3rd board to make two parallel cracks of different widths.  I've been really surprised how much I like training with it, and how realistic the tempo feels if you rope solo it while placing gear, clipping the rope, and lowering down from the rafters.  Hope some of this helps...

This is the most useful option IMO. You can also use wingnuts on the outside to make it adjustable even without a spanner.

If OP is building a roof crack, they could have 3 to 4 boards next to each other, with the middle boards "floating" along threaded rods. That way one could have multiple adjustable options at once.

Scott Hinkins wrote:

:) I’d say I’m an “advanced beginner”. Aside from gym reps on the not quite fist crack there , the only outdoor crack climbing I’ve done to speak of was in Yosemite a few months ago. I climbed a multi on cathedral and some other single pitch stuff. I plan on establishing some route goals once visiting places like smith rock and Indian creek here in the states. So my goal now is to become strong and adaptable with some decent technique as a foundation. 

Good info and goals.

- If a week+ trip to the Creek is in the works, it would be helpful do some "body hardening" on hands and wide hands, even if your technique is solid in those sizes. A much higher percentage of your body weight is hanging off handjams when you're on 5.10's there, compared to any other ~trad climbing area.

- If you want to become the next desert offwidth maven, inverting your way to glory on 5.13 R/X splitters -- training indoors is actually not necessary. Just get really good at ghosting your partners the morning of, leaving them waiting at the trailhead despite being the one who suggested the plans in the first place. /s

- It seems everyone is enamored with roof cracks as of late. It still seems like a pretty lofty setup for anything above or below hands-size. I would be worried about off-sizes being insurmountably difficult and that hampering your motivation to train on it. But whatever floats your gote!

- Not sure of your timeline on this, but you could start training vertical freehanging ringlocks and thumbstacks tomorrow by adding a couple blocks to your hangboard setup. Then take your time researching, planning and building the uber-woody :-)

Best of luck with the proj!

Gotta drop the splitter boast post every few years:

F r i t z wrote:

Good info and goals.

- If a week+ trip to the Creek is in the works, it would be helpful do some "body hardening" on hands and wide hands, even if your technique is solid in those sizes. A much higher percentage of your body weight is hanging off handjams when you're on 5.10's there, compared to any other ~trad climbing area.

Except for Vedauwoo, Devils Tower, Needles, Trout Creek, Index, Yosemite ...

You'll find out in a rush if your local area is a crack climbing area, or just a trad climbing area. But Indian Creek is not the only one.

Perfect hands and thin hands if you're an "advanced beginner"

Petsfed 00 wrote:

Except for Vedauwoo, Devils Tower, Needles, Trout Creek, Index, Yosemite ...

You'll find out in a rush if your local area is a crack climbing area, or just a trad climbing area. But Indian Creek is not the only one.

Admittedly, my assessment might be a bit myopic from the years I had the Creek as a daytrip, but in today's post-factual political climate, I'll still choose to cling to the myth of Wingate exceptionalism. :-P

mountainhick wrote:

Gotta drop the splitter boast post every few years:

I remember seeing your build before.  Excellent!  I would be looking at putting in a fireman's pole if I had that level of vertical clearance.  Love it man.