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Shoe for Rock Climbing / Extreme Hikes mix

Original Post
Luiza Carter · · Washington, DC · Joined Sep 2023 · Points: 0

Apologies for what is likely a very basic question for everyone here, but I'm just starting out on my mountaineering journey so I appreciate your patience in advance :)  I recently tried my first mixed rock climb / hike (Mt. Olomana ./ 3 Peaks in Oahu, Hawaii)- it's considered Class 3.5 with several (ropeless) scrambling sections mixed throughout a steep narrow hike on the ridge... Can anyone recommend the right type of shoes to wear for something like this (since it's not straight rock climbing and hiking shoes seemed too bulky for the scrambling sections). Had same issue doing a via ferrata in the Dolomites recently - needed the climbing narrow flexibility, but comfortable enough for extended hiking as well.... Google just keeps pulling up the standard 'Scarpa climbing' shoes... Thank you!!!

P.s. - super excited to discover & be part of this community! : ) 

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398

You are looking for Approach Shoes. Black Diamond, La Sportiva, Scarpa, etc all make great shoes that will suit your needs. I just climbed the first half of the Rostrum in Yosemite in the BD Sessions clean after forgetting my shoes in the car, so the rubber is good even on the low end of the range and I assume that will hold true for other brands as well.

Eric Engberg · · Westborough, MA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Search for "approach shoes".  There are zillions.  You will probably get a lot of advice and opinions but just remember that they are your feet and you need something that fits you.  In general there is going to be a full spectrum from almost climbing to almost hiking shoes.  What works well for one end will have disadvantages at the other - and visa versa.

Personally I like the Sportiva TX series.

Luiza Carter · · Washington, DC · Joined Sep 2023 · Points: 0

Amazingly helpful- already looking these up! Thank you both!

climber pat · · Las Cruces NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 301

I suspect the vast majority of people here like the la sportiva tx series. Personally I'm older and like a little stiffer sole and prefer the scarpa zen pro. 

Mark Schubert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2023 · Points: 0
climber pat wrote:

I suspect the vast majority of people here like the la sportiva tx series. Personally I'm older and like a little stiffer sole and prefer the scarpa zen pro. 

The TX4 R has a shank and is notably stiffer than the TX4. More solid all around.

Jake907 · · Anchorage Alaska · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0
Luiza Carter wrote:

Apologies for what is likely a very basic question for everyone here, but I'm just starting out on my mountaineering journey so I appreciate your patience in advance :)  I recently tried my first mixed rock climb / hike (Mt. Olomana ./ 3 Peaks in Oahu, Hawaii)- it's considered Class 3.5 with several (ropeless) scrambling sections mixed throughout a steep narrow hike on the ridge... Can anyone recommend the right type of shoes to wear for something like this (since it's not straight rock climbing and hiking shoes seemed too bulky for the scrambling sections). Had same issue doing a via ferrata in the Dolomites recently - needed the climbing narrow flexibility, but comfortable enough for extended hiking as well.... Google just keeps pulling up the standard 'Scarpa climbing' shoes... Thank you!!!

P.s. - super excited to discover & be part of this community! : ) 

Dont bring an approach shoe on 3 peaks.  Trail running shoes or something with some generous lugs will be much better.  I used train runners.  That trail can be wet and muddy and most approach shoes skimp on lugs to make it better on rock but you'll slide all over the place. 

Brandon R · · CA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 194

This is a great trail-runner style of approach shoe with nice, deep lugs. Merrell MQM   The "climbing zone" in the front is a little oversized though. 

Randy Vannurden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

You would be fine with hiking shoes on Olomana

giraud b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0
Permabeta · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 16
Jake907 wrote:

Dont bring an approach shoe on 3 peaks.  Trail running shoes or something with some generous lugs will be much better.  I used train runners.  That trail can be wet and muddy and most approach shoes skimp on lugs to make it better on rock but you'll slide all over the place. 

This is the correct answer.

I’ve hiked Olomana a half dozen times, forward and backward, and have always used trail runners (usually Salomon XA Pro 3D). I’ve used those same shoes for most “extreme” hikes on Oahu, too.

Some locals use Trail spikes, though I think they’re a little silly. Then again, you‘ll occasionally see people hiking Olomana in slippers, or barefoot.

Approach shoes are better for less muddy, rockier trails, like the short approaches for many popular climbing destinations in non-tropical environments.

John Sigmon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 83

Approach shoes are very stiff and meant for where you may need to climb fifth class terrain. Contrary to popular opinion the stiffness makes them not ideal for long distances. Your feet will thank you if you do objectives like that in trail runners.

giraud b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0

I'm posting from the opposite side of the planet and know nothing about that trail. If that's the case the OP should check out these three TR by La Spo:

-Bushido

-Mutant. Best option if the trail is wet and muddy on that particular day. 

-Ultra Raptor

I have climbed with all of them up to grade 5.10/6a. The UR being the best climber of the three. I did a 5.10c/6b with it and no issues. Fantastic grip. 

Sizing is tricky with La Spo. Don't buy online without trying in store first. I go 1/2 size up with most LS TR and approach shoes. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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