Getting A belay Device that I can use in an indoor gym

Hey, I am in the market for a belay device and was thinking about getting a good tube-assisted braking device.

However, I have read a few comments about gyms only allowing the gri-gri belay device. 

How common is this rule amongst gyms?

Thanks!

I think requiring assisted-braking devices (not always limited to gri-gris) is probably going to become the norm in most gyms for liability reasons.

I'd check with the local gyms you might frequent to check on their policies.

Grigri is king for a reason, it is a solid device that Petzl cornered the market on, and its ubiquity means most climbers you meet know how to use one. As Shawn mentioned, some gyms require a Grigri. You'll have to call the gym and ask what their policy is.

As for the runners up, each device has their following. People like what they like, but that doesn't necessarily translate to something you'll like.

I'm partial to the Mammut Smart, similar to the ATC Pilot. Lots here recommend the *jul devices because they aren't limited (I think) to single-pitch sport climbs.

Depends on the gym.  My local gym only allows tube type devices (ATC, etc.).  Their rationale is that there are too many assisted braking devices, each with its own nuances, and it would be impossible to train everyone on every type of device.

I’ll sell you an edelrid Jul2 for cheap

The hip belay is the only way.

It’s pretty common amongst gyms to either require a Gri Gri specifically, require an assisted braking device of some kind, require an ATC only, or have no specific rules.

To cover all circumstances, having a Gri Gri and a tube style ATC will cover just about any gym rule you come across.

Sometimes, gyms which require Gri Gri’s will lend them out to you for free. Mine holds on to your car keys in exchange during your session. 

I like the BD pilot. Assisted braking so approved in every gym I have been to. Feeds rope great for lead. As a lefty who leads, I don’t care for the gri gri. 

Christopher Shay wrote: As a lefty who leads, I don’t care for the gri gri. 

Interesting, I never considered the grigri or belaying to have a handedness but I swap back and forth handedness on different things. If anything I feel like righty's would want the lever on the right side.

As a lefty who lives in a right handers world...I learned how to use a gri gri right handed. And most other things for that matter.  You get used to it

One needs to know how to belay from both left and right hands.  Practice, practice, practice.

I always recommend starting with a grigri. They're not hard to find on sale for less than $100, and you'll never wish you'd gotten anything else. If you're hard up for cash, and you'll never need a device for single rope raps, belaying a second up a multi pitch, self rescue, etc, I think the pilot is a totally fine device, and I use mine in the gym all the time. If your home gym or gyms you might to go in the area require a grigri, then bob's your uncle, but most gyms are okay with a pilot or smart at least, but again, I really think the grigri is the way to go. 

Get both, problem solved. Its a piece of gear and you'll acquire many belay devices over time, if you stick with it.

Caleb BR wrote:

and you'll never wish you'd gotten anything else. 

Objection 

J E wrote:

Objection 

Sustained, 

please state your reasoning. 

Luke Graham wrote:

Hey, I am in the market for a belay device and was thinking about getting a good tube-assisted braking device.

However, I have read a few comments about gyms only allowing the gri-gri belay device. 

How common is this rule amongst gyms?

Thanks!

At first, my gym “strongly encouraged” a grigri, but then again, their rental has ATC type devices and my current partners prefer ATC.

I’m also left handed, and for top rope it’s great, but for lead a bit more work to feed than an ATC.

Li Hu wrote:

At first, my gym “strongly encouraged” a grigri, but then again, their rental has ATC type devices and my current partners prefer ATC.

I’m also left handed, and for top rope it’s great, but for lead a bit more work to feed than an ATC.

I shall edit my previous statement: you'll never wish you'd gotten another assisted breaking device. 

I always bring an ATC guide and a grigri with me. You win. 

Caleb BR wrote:

I shall edit my previous statement: you'll never wish you'd gotten another assisted breaking device. 

I always bring an ATC guide and a grigri with me. You win. 

I still object. I hate the grigri. Gave mine away free. Depending on what I'm doing, I have a vergo, alpine up, revo, Taz lov, camp giant, camp matik.

J, it's amusing how much of the mindshare the Grigri has captured. Petzl really cornered the market for assisted belay devices simply by being first to market (that the device works pretty well I'm sure also helps!)

But back to the topic at hand, in southern ontario, I believe most if not all the gyms require the Grigri. I have been told that it is for insurance purposes, as the underwriter does not recognize other ABDs. How much of that is truth and how much is fiction is up for debate.

Here in the Metro Vancouver area only 1 gym requires assisted-braking belays devices. The rest allow any belay device except for figure 8's