LaSpo Aequilibrium Speed GTX vs Aequilibrium Top GTX

drew A wrote:

Wow the pictures make it look massive compared to the Crossover. The pictures on La Sportiva's site make it look a lot smaller. 

I think I'll stick to my Crossovers for wet/snowy approaches. Much easier to pack. 

Yeah, I'd say "Low top boot" more than "burly sneaker"

I don't agree with what's been said:

In my opinion the LS Speed is a quite capable summer option. I've used it for (solo) 4000m peaks (Weissmies and Pollux) last season and will continue using it this year for similar adventures. Also used them for soloing Marmolata and a trip with my girlfriend to Piz Buin. Been happy with the performance on glacier and ice - even did some WI3/4 top roping with them, as I had lent my Gtechs to a friend of mine this winter.

Actually found it to be substantially more capable than the Scarpa Ribelle S HD, which I've used before for Fast & Light trips (e.g. Gran Paradiso solo after season or parts of the spaghetti traverse).

What temperature range did you feel the Speed is reasonable down to?

Just wanted to throw this shoe into the mix...looks nice. 

https://world.scarpa.com/product/23797080/ribelle-run-kalibra-g-for-extreme-conditions-hero-black-azure

Bruno Schull wrote:

Just wanted to throw this shoe into the mix...looks nice. 

https://world.scarpa.com/product/23797080/ribelle-run-kalibra-g-for-extreme-conditions-hero-black-azure

This isn't really comparable to the Aequilibrium series, this is a trail running shoe with an integrated gaitor, it doesn't even have a plate in the midsole it's nothing but EVA. Just a dedicated winter trail running shoe, suitable for micro spikes but not a strap on crampon. 

Comparable to the la sportiva cyklon cross. 

That does look cool and a possible replacement forthe Crossover - trail runner with a gaiter. I don't think the Kalibra can take a crampon? 

I'm looking for something that I can use for summer mountaineering in the Alps - glacier and snow approaches, some moderate rock until switching to a rock shoe, a few moves of mixed or ice but no extended frontpointing. Getting to climbs in the Aiguilles Dorées, Les Drus, off the Midi etc but no need for something warm enough to summit Mt. Blanc. 

Ribelle Tech is probably closer on the Scarpa side than the Kalibra. Or one of the Aequilibriums, just not sure if I can get away with the Speed or should go for the Top.

that guy named seb wrote:

This isn't really comparable to the Aequilibrium series, this is a trail running shoe with an integrated gaitor, it doesn't even have a plate in the midsole it's nothing but EVA. Just a dedicated winter trail running shoe, suitable for micro spikes but not a strap on crampon. 

Comparable to the la sportiva cyklon cross. 

Yeah, clearly very different to the Aequilibrium.  But is is very far from the crossover, discussed on the last page?  

On some blog somewhere or other (Evoke Endurance) there wads a climber using the Kalibra to approach ice climbs in winter....interesting. 

At least for me and my big feet, size 48, all these sneaker/boots would be too flexy for anything that might require crampons.

But I'm interested...

Cole Crawford wrote:

What temperature range did you feel the Speed is reasonable down to?

Well it wasn’t that cold when I used it, but I suppose it would be reasonably comfy to -5 Celcius or so.

Check the weights. Ribelle comes in at 370g, Cyklon Cross is 355grams, so pretty similar. Difference looks to be a thicker gaiter on the Scarpa. Both then are winter trailrunning shoes and not something like the Aequilibrium. 

The Sportiva Crossover was roughly a Sportiva Mutant (or C-Lite 2 to be persnickety) with a built in gaiter and a GTX lining. The gaiter wasn't water resistant itself. So similar to the Cyklon Cross GTX.

I used the Aequilibrium Top for a February trip to Patagonia and really liked them as a lightweight mountain boot down there - they hike pretty well, scramble/climb easy rock incredibly well, and climb steep snow adequately, although if you get into too much front-pointing in super steep or icy terrain you may end up wanting a stiffer boot. I tested them at home leading ice up to around WI3 and while certainly not intended for that terrain, I was able to make them work. While it has worked fine so far, I remain somewhat skeptical of the BOA system (and all BOA systems), mainly because if it fails in the field you are absolutely hosed. The gaiter is certainly a nice feature if you are spending a lot of time in slushy snow, makes the boot warmer and adds a bit more structure and stiffness to the boot, but for the amount of time I was in wet snow I think one of the regular Aequilibrium models (the synthetic or leather versions) would have worked just fine too. Overall though, my experience and impression led me to trust it as a pretty darn versatile boot that could tackle both alpine rock shenanigans (when you aren't in rock shoes), and pretty serious snow approaches. Basically, a great 3 season mountain boot, which shines in the warmer months and mixed trail/snow/rock terrain, without being the absolute best at any of them.

I haven't used the Aequilibrium speed version, but it seems to be marketed towards a pretty niche running/mountaineering user group. I've handled it in the store and personally thought that for a "typical user" they would likely be insufficient for more serious snow approaches due to its flexibility. However, it could be a really nice option for certain early season alpine rock climbs. Colorado is pretty dry overall though, and I've typically gotten away with approach shoes as around the time most of the alpine rock comes into condition, most of the snow has already melted. The Speeds seem pretty ideal for prime season Bugaboos honestly - light, packable, but can take up to a semi-automatic crampon in case the glacier is in tough condition. Most people there just use either high top gtx approach shoes or even normal approach shoes, which can verge on too light, depending on conditions. Basically, for the normal alpine rock climber I'd put it in roughly the same functional category as the Trango Techs or a mid-height waterproof approach shoe, although certainly a bit more advanced of a design than either of those.

Basically to summarize my take: if you want more of a boot and will be spending significant time approaching in potentially complicated snow terrain (glacier, sustained steep snow field/couloir) go with the Aequilibrium Top/LT/ST. If you are looking for a glorified waterproof approach shoe, the Aequilibrium Speeds look like a pretty sweet and techy option for those niche conditions and zones.

Tim N wrote:

because if it fails in the field you are absolutely hosed. 

I worried about this too - but the dial may be designed to be knocked off, then click back into place. The ones on the Cyklon Cross GTX certainly are. Here's an example of this very thing happening to me:

https://youtu.be/tp7cb8u82-s?si=0RcnWaxvmuiLJLz6&t=369

These little dials have a ton of engineering put into them.

Anyone can compare the stiffness of the Speeds with the old Salomon X-Alp? Also how do the speed wear with the gaiter open? The second version X-Alp had a push bottom at the top which is quite handy so the gaiter doesn't fold over.

I like the performance of my Ribelle Tech for a lot of mountaineering but got horrible swamp feet in them twice. I think a zipped gaiter is much better for some added ventilation when possible compared to a build in one like the Techs. That is why the Speeds appeal to me.

I have also have good expeciences with using orthopedic carbon insoles in approach shoes and soft boots to make them a bit stiffer for climbing with crampons (and removing them for the walking/running parts). That might be the way to go with the Speeds as well. 

Just got back from a quick trip to whitney zone and tested the speeds.

They definitely will climb steep snow/snice/neve with crampons.  Will have a fair amount of flex, so be cautious and account for it and it goes smooth.  I had high confidence/no concern going up or down.  

Kicking steps into very hard snow will hurt and/or not work = makes crampons necessary for that type of snow where in a more burly boot you might be able to just pound some steps in w/o crampons.

Technical ice would likely be sketchy, but probably doable for short sections.

An option could be a fairy rigid crampon (like blade runner) but that likely negates the lightweight benefit. 

Rock scrambling up to 5.6/5.7 was comfy on north ridge of lone pine peak in pretty wild winter conditions.  

I'll re-emphasise that i think the speeds trail run really well, considering their weight.  I've been able to trail run all of my normal circuits wearing them with only a minor (5-10%) time penalty.

BL: for me, the speed definitely trails adequately to well, accepts a crampon and negotiates snow with high confidence, and climbs rock well. The difference from a normal 3-season mountain boot is an ability to run up and down hill and clip shoes to harness when switching to rock shoes

If anyone’s interested in an alternative, I ended up picking up the Scarpa Ribelle Kalibra G’s. Lighter and more flexy than the Speeds, but with that they trail run/hike really well. 

Jack Bushway wrote:

If anyone’s interested in an alternative, I ended up picking up the Scarpa Ribelle Kalibra G’s. Lighter and more flexy than the Speeds, but with that they trail run/hike really well. 

They don’t have a heel welt - so they aren’t a true alternative.

https://www.mammut.com/us/en/products/3010-01150-00520/eiger-speed-boa-high-gtx-men

Another trip to whitney zone a couple weeks ago.  The speeds worked really well, high confidence on rock and snow.  

Also continue to trail run my local circuits and the speeds continue to work as a solid running shoe (however it bulky/heavy).

BL: in the shoe category that climbs rock well (disqualify most trail runners) i think these are the fastest and most generically capable (snow, ice, rock, trail, fast or slow). 

Dave Schultz wrote:

Another trip to whitney zone a couple weeks ago.  The speeds worked really well, high confidence on rock and snow.  

Also continue to trail run my local circuits and the speeds continue to work as a solid running shoe (however it bulky/heavy).

BL: in the shoe category that climbs rock well (disqualify most trail runners) i think these are the fastest and most generically capable (snow, ice, rock, trail, fast or slow). 

Thanks! And how is its durability? 

Freshly back from a EuroTrip for family vacation and I brought enough stuff to dabble on Mont Blanc, Aiguilles Rouges, and the Matterhorn.  

The Speeds did a great job on an 18 mile run through the Aiguilles Rouges, providing great support in pretty rough terrain.  

The Speeds with crampons were confident while I tooled around the Midi, nothing crazy, just wanted to get out and see what it was like.  I don't think they would work on something like the Trois Monts route with pretty serious and sustained steep snow/ice; but something like the Goûter Route I think the Speeds would work well (there is definitley some snow/ice, but I'm pretty sure it is much less and not as steep/serious as Trois Monts).  

The Speeds were great/perfect for the Matterhorn from Zermatt without a stay in the hut.  They made quick work trail running up to the hut, climbed very well on the technical 4th/5th class terrain (up and down).  Other perspective/options:  trail runners would be lighter/faster on the approach, but would likely not climb as confident (thus slower and higher risk); and approach shoes would be terrible to trail run in on the approach (thus you'd hike not run, and would be much slower), but they would be very comfortable on the climbing.  The Speeds are one of the few (only?) shoes that both run and climb WELL (enough).  Note that I opted to NOT bring crampons and thus chose to turn around shy of the summit, part of plan to be excessively conservative on the route.  I know that crampons would have easily paved the way for an easy summit.  

I think the Speeds really hit the sweet spot in running, climbing rock and snow/ice.  

Cheers,

Dave

Dave Schultz wrote:

 I don't think they would work on something like the Trois Monts route with pretty serious and sustained steep snow/ice; but something like the Goûter Route I think the Speeds would work well (there is definitley some snow/ice, but I'm pretty sure it is much less and not as steep/serious as Trois Monts).  

Well, I did use them for my Solo Traverse of Mont Blanc (<14h - Up via Gouter and down to Aiq. Du Midi) and never felt like they were „too little boot“ - so it’s safe to say they can work for Trois Monts just fine. ;)

Other than that I totally agree: It’s an amazing pair of alpine shoes for fast & light missions.