Travel Alert: Cañón del Tajo / El Gran Trono Blanco, Baja California - September 2023

Cañón del Tajo (and Trono Blanco), Sierra de Juárez. Caution!

There were two robbery-carjacking incidents on September 2, 2023 on the dirt road between La Rumorosa and Laguna Hanson. The first incident was very near the turnoff toward base camp. Several men, armed with automatic rifles, in three vehicles, attacked and robbed a family of their valuables and 2022 Ford Ranger. A Can-Am UTV was later carjacked along the road by the same bandidos.

This does not appear to be the rare "lone wolf" type bandit. The local mafia would not want the undue attention from these crimes. It points to increased cartel activity in the area. Possibly an outside cartel, as competing cartels have been battling in the region.

Parque Nacional Constitución de 1857 (Laguna Hanson) is temporarily closed due to these crimes.

Climbing season begins this month at Cañón del Tajo. Exercise extreme caution driving south from La Rumorosa. There have been a few other serious incidents in the past two years. I suggest travel by caravan with several vehicles, or activate your Romulan cloaking device to escape detection!

* cross-posted to "International"

This afternoon, government officials are making statements to the effect of: These were isolated incidents. The government and national guard are dealing with the situation. The national park is safe now. The park is open again, functioning normally.

Typical political spin to do nothing except give press talks and pretend to the public that the situation is in the control of their capable hands and now safe. Of course, tourists are invited back to the area.

Meanwhile, the heavily armed gang has not been identified, captured or shot dead. Two meth labs were found in the vicinity of one carjacking. There appears to be no evidence to support the belief that this gang will halt criminal activity in the area.

ClimbBaja.   Thanks for the update. It’s a sad and unfortunate situation down there now. I always enjoyed the heck out of my trips down there in the 70’s/80’s It felt like going to Patagonia for poor climbers.
Are the ranchers still there? I remember good interactions with them one time at a bachelor party that was blocking the “road”. They moved the trucks, traded salt for beef, and we were on our way.
Maybe one day we will get our heads out of our ass and figure something out. I only hope.

Again, thanks. 

Guy Keesee wrote:

ClimbBaja.  
...Are the ranchers still there?
Maybe one day we will get our heads out of our ass and figure something out. I only hope. ...

Those early days in the 1970s and 80s were certainly filled with adventure! The ranchers are still there, and still on horseback with their free-range cattle. It's tough to make a living as a cattle rancher in those dry mountains, hit by decades of drought. Rancho El Topo is the only productive ranch within miles. There are still a few head of cattle, but most of the income now comes from tourism activities: horseback riding, dirt bikers on long adventure rides, 4x4 and UTV clubs, camping, family picnickers, hiking clubs, and a few climbers. We have satellite internet now. About 5 years ago, I built an outdoor climbing gym - artificial holds bolted to a 35' granite cliff. (Close to the main ranch houses, not in wilderness). I supplied the gear and taught the younger generation of family to guide,  so that they can generate some spending money.

The armed carjackings are detrimental to tourism and to the safety of the these remote ranching families. In 2022, a prominent rancher, Jose Dukes, was kidnapped along the road to La Rumorosa. The family was extorted for ransom, and señor Dukes was killed. Here's my advisory from that incident:  https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/122322674/travel-alert-canon-del-tajo-el-gran-trono-blanco-baja-california

Since that time a hiking group was scrambling up Cerro Teta de la India, betwen Tajo and Rumorosa. They were fired upon from below with fully automatic weapons. Bullets hit the rocks all around them, but there were no injuries. Clandestine meth labs have been found in the vicinity. 

If you decide to plan a trip, I'm happy to provide the latest intel and suggested safety protocol.

Saludos

This was a long time ago (~'96), and probably really not related to the incidents described above, but the last time I was at Canon Tajo (or Mexico, in general), after topping out on the Pan American route, my buddy & I were sitting in the van quaffing a Guinness. A couple of bandanna-wearing bandidos pushed their rifles into the van into our faces, demanding that we get out, and lie face down on the ground- one of them stood over us yelling 'suelo! suelo!', while the other went through the van, clearly more interested in cash, than the thousand$$ we had in our haul bag. At one point, my buddy kept calling to them saying 'somos buena gente!' ('we are good people!'), and as he was gesturing to the van where the wallet could be found, the guy fired off a couple of shots into the ground about 2' from my head.

Point made. They tossed the keys, then disabled the van, and eventually disappeared into the night. We found the keys under the van, managed to get it functional, and drove the hell out of there. Haven't been back to Baja (or Mexico) since. Which is really a drag, because Baja really is a wonderful place, and CT is especially special.

Has the situation changed at all? I Was hoping to do a trip this season, but saw this and am looking for current info. 

Since the 2 carjackings in early September,  I have no reports of new incidents in the sierra. The perpetrators have not been caught. 

Marihuana harvest season is over now,  and planting will begin in the spring months. This is the safest time of year for hiking/approaches in the canyons.

The road into base camp from the main dirt road currently has a badly rutted section, maybe 100 yards long. It is passable by 2WD by driving very carefully. Then, nearing basecamp, the sandy arroyo has deeper sand than past years. 

ClimbBaja wrote:

Since the 2 carjackings in early September,  I have no reports of new incidents in the sierra. The perpetrators have not been caught. 

Marihuana harvest season is over now,  and planting will begin in the spring months. This is the safest time of year for hiking/approaches in the canyons.

The road into base camp from the main dirt road currently has a badly rutted section, maybe 100 yards long. It is passable by 2WD by driving very carefully. Then, nearing basecamp, the sandy arroyo has deeper sand than past years. 

Heyo how's the conditions down there right now? Thinking of heading that way at some point 

The final 1.5 miles of dirt road to base camp is currently 2WD, with high clearance recommended. If driving in with one vehicle, I'd suggest "airing down" the tires to avoid getting stuck in a sandy arroyo crossing. Winter storms have not yet arrived. It has been dry, with daytime highs in the 60s F.  The dirt roads south from La Rumorosa (Mex highway 2) have been graded, wide and deep, for approx. 8 miles south. Dozens of wind turbine generators are being installed in that area of the northern Sierra de Juárez wilderness. Sempra has the new WTGs scheduled to be operational in June 2025. The grading of the dirt road is deep, with little or no thought to water runoff. I expect 4WD will be required after significant rainfall. 

I have not heard of any crimes against gringos in recent months in the area between La Rumorosa and Cañón del Tajo basecamp. It is best to avoid driving it at night. Narcotraficantes have long used these dirt roads to avoid checkpoints on the paved highways. A few clandestine meth labs have been found in the wilderness. Cartel activity has increased throughout northern Baja California. Months ago, I encountered 4 yucca poachers with machetes. They were harvesting/stealing wild yucca within 1 km of basecamp. 

The food at La Cabaña del Abuelo in La Rumorosa is highly recommended. Next door to the Pemex gas station, 1/4 mile east of the turnoff to Tajo on Highway 2. Don't miss the new upscale bakery & restaurant, Dulce Altura, across the highway from the Pemex.

ClimbBaja wrote:

The final 1.5 miles of dirt road to base camp is currently 2WD, with high clearance recommended. If driving in with one vehicle, I'd suggest "airing down" the tires to avoid getting stuck in a sandy arroyo crossing. Winter storms have not yet arrived. It has been dry, with daytime highs in the 60s F.  The dirt roads south from La Rumorosa (Mex highway 2) have been graded, wide and deep, for approx. 8 miles south. Dozens of wind turbine generators are being installed in that area of the northern Sierra de Juárez wilderness. Sempra has the new WTGs scheduled to be operational in June 2025. The grading of the dirt road is deep, with little or no thought to water runoff. I expect 4WD will be required after significant rainfall. 

I have not heard of any crimes against gringos in recent months in the area between La Rumorosa and Cañón del Tajo basecamp. It is best to avoid driving it at night. Narcotraficantes have long used these dirt roads to avoid checkpoints on the paved highways. A few clandestine meth labs have been found in the wilderness. Cartel activity has increased throughout northern Baja California. Months ago, I encountered 4 yucca poachers with machetes. They were harvesting/stealing wild yucca within 1 km of basecamp. 

The food at La Cabaña del Abuelo in La Rumorosa is highly recommended. Next door to the Pemex gas station, 1/4 mile east of the turnoff to Tajo on Highway 2. Don't miss the new upscale bakery & restaurant, Dulce Altura, across the highway from the Pemex.

thank you!