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North America's classic roof crack ticklist

Original Post
Hangdog Hank · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 2,024

What is the the definitive tick list of all of North America's most classic roof cracks? my initial thoughts...

5.11: More Monkey than Funky

5.12: Separate Reality, Colchuck Reality/Full Tilt, My Little Pony

5.13: Zombie Roof, Desert Gold, The Crackhouse, The Monument

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 669

Are you only including boulders if they're long enough to be routes?

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105900396/big-bobs-big-wedge
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106029670/ghetto-snake (edit: not classic but looks really cool)

Israel R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 87

5.14: Century crack and probably the crucifix project

Camdon Kay · · Idaho · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 3,557

Trench Warfare 5.12+ LCC, Utah

Century Crack 5.14 Canyonlands, Utah

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

There should be a special category for the "Reality routes".

Separate Reality (the OG)

Desert Reality (as a part of Desert Gold)

Dixie Reality

Arkansas Reality

Colchuck Reality

Bobcat Reality

Etc...

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

The Owl Roof in Yosemite for sure. 5.12

Ignatius Pi · · Europe · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 13

Would Paisano be somewhere in the mix?

I'm assuming that a route like Foops, although undeniably a roof - 'Spoof Roof' - doesn't qualify as a 'roof crack'.

Alex Oliver · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 30

I'd put my vote in for Heaven 5.13. Can't really beat that view

Marc-Andre Giasson · · Arlington, MA · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Le toit de Ben

Morgan Mannon · · Orange county · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 20

Tokopah reality. More of a flake than a true splitter but it’s still pretty mega! 

Mikey Schaefer · · Reno, NV · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 233

The Great Roof 13b/14-?

Petch · · Lover's Leap, CA · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 35

Grand illusion! 13b/c

Benton Hodges · · Jackson, WY · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 645

Hands Across America 5.12+ at the Tennessee Wall.

George Bracksieck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 3,698

Friday the Thirteenth, pitches 2&3, at the Voo. 

Addy S · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 55
Camdon Kay wrote:

Trench Warfare 5.12+ LCC, Utah

Century Crack 5.14 Canyonlands, Utah

Both amazing choices. Trench Warfare is so awesome especially trench day.

Spencer Moore · · Bellingham · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 133

My Little Pony is the hammer and I am the nail. One of the most dope things I have ever done is punt to the moon on this roof. So fucking cool, please come project it with me. 

Tom Rangitsch · · Lander, Wy · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,740

Cranner Rock Roof Crack 5.13a Sweetwater Rocks, Wyoming

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Tom Rangitsch wrote:

Cranner Rock Roof Crack 5.13a Sweetwater Rocks, Wyoming

Does this one ever go to horizontal roof, or is it just steeply overhanging? I've looked at it from the base but haven't climbed it, so I could be remembering wrong. How steep does it get at the steepest point?

This somewhat raises a question of what defines a roof crack - how steep and how long a roof section needed to qualify.

Tom Rangitsch · · Lander, Wy · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,740
JCM wrote:

Does this one ever go to horizontal roof, or is it just steeply overhanging? I've looked at it from the base but haven't climbed it, so I could be remembering wrong. How steep does it get at the steepest point?

This somewhat raises a question of what defines a roof crack - how steep and how long a roof section needed to qualify.

It is mostly just very overhanging but it crests over to horizontal briefly and you pull over a lip to get established on a vertical face above.  "Roof Crack" is most of its name, so at least someone thought it counted.

Doctor Choss · · Arvada, CO · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 5

Not really routes but I think these both belong.

The Morque (Hueco Tanks)

The Crackhouse (Moab)

Tim Bratten · · Balcarce, AR · Joined May 2017 · Points: 4,421



Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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