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Auto-locking anti-crossloading round-stock HMS carabiner?

Original Post
J L · · Craggin' · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 4

Seems like I can find carabiners with two of the below, but not all three  

  • Auto-locking because I seem to screw up by not screwing down.
  • Round stock at the HMS end
  • Anti-crossloading

Want the last two because the carabiner can occasionally flip when using the Mammut Smart, and the round stock is preferable for performance when locking up the rope.

If I can't find one I'll probably just stick with my Element II or maybe buy a GridLock. It's a screw gate but I'll just have to be a big boy and suck it up.

DC Swamp Dweller · · DC · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

DMM Ceros. They have both twist and triple action auto lockers. dmmwales.com/climbing-produ…

Newt Riverman · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Look for a Magnetron grid lock. I just sold the last few I had last year. 

I have used a Mammut Smart for years, I like the Mammut Bionic autolocker to pair with it. 

David J · · CO · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 193

Second the DMM Ceros. Specifically the "Locksafe" version with triple action locking (twist, lift, and pull) in contrast to the "Kwiklock " version with just twist and pull. 

J L · · Craggin' · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 4

Well, that was quick. Local store only stocks the screw gate but I'll see about a special order. Thanks!

David, are you sure the Kwiklock isn't the double-action? Either way I'm comfortable with the triple action, doesn't bother me and I can operate it one handed ... most of the time heh

David J · · CO · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 193

You are right! The Locksafe is the triple action version. Fixed the post. I prefer it because the twist&lock only feels a little bit too easy to do.

It's an expensive carabiner, and it's only good for one thing: belaying. But it's the best belay specific carabiner on the market IMO. You will never cross-load again.

Jake woo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 2
Jimmy Strange wrote:

Either of the Grivel Clepsydras. 

+1 for the grivels. The little one is basically made for the Grigri. Also good for connecting to the rope if not tied in direct. Big one is great for ATC style devices. 

James - · · Mid-Atlantic · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 0

Another possible option:

https://sterlingrope.com/falcon-talon-carabiner/ 

I have a couple of the “Hawk” model with auto lock. It’s a triple action: slide, then twist, then open the gate. Feels very secure. 

Eli W · · Oregon · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 0

The clepys are great, I picked ‘em up for TRS, but they’re definitely my favorite belay carabiner. 

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

Rock Exotica Pirate Autolocking with keeper.  

J L · · Craggin' · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 4

Solid options, all. The Grivel looks very very secure.   I DM'd Leon and will give it a shot soon.

j mo · · n az · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,190

I missed all the fun discussion but may I please endorse the DMM Ceros?  It prevents cross loading not just at the belay loop but at the device, with the little horn on the spine- genius!  It is the clear choice for 2 applications- belaying w a grigri and TR soloing w any device. The best choice for both these uses, hands down. 

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615
Sunny-D wrote:

Rock Exotica Pirate Autolocking with keeper.  

I second this suggestion. These are great! Also the autolocking gate unlocks down instead of up, which makes unlocking it one-handed a breeze. And they're made in the USA!

Jacklyn C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

I picked up DMM Ceros on sale for about $13 on CampSaver a couple weeks ago. You might be able to find similar pricing

J L · · Craggin' · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 4
Jacklyn C wrote:

I picked up DMM Ceros on sale for about $13

Now that's a nice deal! Ended up paying $29 CAD for mine from Climb On Equipment in Squamish

Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0
J L wrote:

Now that's a nice deal! Ended up paying $29 CAD for mine from Climb On Equipment in Squamish

My all time favorite climbing store and the reason I’m broke…

Steven R · · Snoqualmie, WA · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 72

+1 to the Grivel Clepsydra, also works well as a tie in carabiner for mountaineering (no need to worry about a screw gate wiggling loose)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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