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Sport climbing or bouldering worth seeking out near New Haven, CT?

Original Post
Alaina G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 80

I'm going to be in New Haven (taking 84 east to get there so also near Danbury and Newtown) and I'm wondering if any locals can recommend anything worth climbing that's nearby or on the way? I'll be with a non-climber so it'd have to be a short approach and quick climbing session, but sport or bouldering would work. Only if there's something nice quality that's worth checking out though. That's why I wanted to ask here. I looked at the climbing map and see some things but from the pics, looked chossy.

Andy Casler · · Northfield, NH · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 713

Bear rock (www.mountainproject.com/area/112179154/bear-rock) and West Rock (www.mountainproject.com/area/108368541/south-buttress) are worthy. West Rock roasts in the sun, though 

Joe M · · MA and NH · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 11,975

Woodbridge Land Trust (Frankenrock) is a great little bouldering spot for a quick session. 

Woodbridge

Alaina G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 80
Joe M wrote:

Woodbridge Land Trust (Frankenrock) is a great little bouldering spot for a quick session. 

Woodbridge

Thanks so much! Have you been there before? Can you help me with approach beta if I send you a Google Earth screenshot?

Joe M · · MA and NH · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 11,975
Alaina G wrote:

Thanks so much! Have you been there before? Can you help me with approach beta if I send you a Google Earth screenshot?

I have been there, I can try to help...

Joe M · · MA and NH · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 11,975

This map shows the boulder (the Glacial Erratic symbol on the blue trail near the Woodbridge/New Haven town line). I parked on Park Lane and walked in, the boulder is very hard to miss (it's big!).

Map

Anthony Ferrante · · Vanlife, USA · Joined Mar 2023 · Points: 1,126
Joe M wrote:

Woodbridge Land Trust (Frankenrock) is a great little bouldering spot for a quick session. 

Woodbridge

A solar farm is being built by the trail, you can still access but a very busy area right now 

Anthony Ferrante · · Vanlife, USA · Joined Mar 2023 · Points: 1,126
Joe M wrote:

This map shows the boulder (the Glacial Erratic symbol on the blue trail near the Woodbridge/New Haven town line). I parked on Park Lane and walked in, the boulder is very hard to miss (it's big!).

Map

Also have the Rubix Cube boulder in that area.  Turn left walk around the new "field" and its down on the pole lines

Alaina G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 80
Joe M wrote:

This map shows the boulder (the Glacial Erratic symbol on the blue trail near the Woodbridge/New Haven town line). I parked on Park Lane and walked in, the boulder is very hard to miss (it's big!).

Map

Awesome, thank you so much! So you parked in Parking at the Trailhead/Sign where Paved Portion of Red Trail intersects with Blue (Naugatuck Trail), and then walked east and south for less than 5 minutes if I'm reading it correctly? :) Just want to make sure before I make the non-climbers I'll be with drive and check it out with me.

Anthony Ferrante · · Vanlife, USA · Joined Mar 2023 · Points: 1,126
Alaina G wrote:

Awesome, thank you so much! So you parked in Parking at the Trailhead/Sign where Paved Portion of Red Trail intersects with Blue (Naugatuck Trail), and then walked east and south for less than 5 minutes if I'm reading it correctly? :) Just want to make sure before I make the non-climbers I'll be with drive and check it out with me.

No trailhead is at the end of the road.  The trail you take has no parking , we parked on the side of the road at the request of the construction company building the solar farm.  We also had to stay in the woods off their work area 

Alaina G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 80
Anthony Ferrante wrote:

No trailhead is at the end of the road.  The trail you take has no parking , we parked on the side of the road at the request of the construction company building the solar farm.  We also had to stay in the woods off their work area 

Thanks! Do you have an estimate of time walking from there to the boulder?

Anthony Ferrante · · Vanlife, USA · Joined Mar 2023 · Points: 1,126
Alaina G wrote:

Thanks! Do you have an estimate of time walking from there to the boulder?

Few minutes 

Anton S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2021 · Points: 0

This was a really dope boulder, but I think I’ll be picking those sticky pods/seeds/leaves I got covered in on the approach for the rest of my life

Would love advice on how the rock at Sleeping Giant is in high humidity. Is it like diabase where it’s not worth it to even go or can you do easy stuff?

Thanks!

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 719
Anton S wrote:

Would love advice on how the rock at Sleeping Giant is in high humidity. Is it like diabase where it’s not worth it to even go or can you do easy stuff?

I'm not much of a boulderer. But,  I find the rock at SGSP to be extremely abrasive. More so than Ragged or Pinnacle.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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