Recommended front range climbs for breaking into low 11's

Anyone have a climb they liked as their first 11? I'm looking for a long term project to try to break into the grade, hopefully relatively closely bolted and preferably close-ish to Denver/Golden

Walking with a Ghost at the canal zone is pretty accessible https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106210086/walking-with-a-ghost

Conehead at the Little Eiger: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105752596/conehead

The harder parts on those are short and sweet, and they are both have pretty comfy bolting

The Opportunist and its variations at Tan Corridor in Staunton State Park. Sustained and fun movement. The crux will be waiting in line, especially if you go on a weekend!

Reefer Madness at Wall of the 90s in CCC. Thin crux that feels improbable until you figure it out. I do this one pretty much every time I'm at that crag.

Curvaceous, also at Wall of the 90s. 11b, but long and fun with an awesome roof move. 

For winter (too hot right now) :

Free Willie at Animal World in Bocan. Some big juggy holds and fairly sustained. 

Ernest Stemmingway at Graveyard in CCC. This was my first 11a. Only one cruxy move. 

Oh yeah and Reefer Madness: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105748397/reefer-madness

FWIW, I think Reefer Madness is one of the most overrated pitches of climbing I have ever done. 

If you're looking for the straight up easiest, it's probably either TMNT up at Live Action Wall, No Special Talent at Death Valley, or Aurora Sports Park at East Colfax (literally a 1 move wonder). TMNT and No Special Talent are both pretty enjoyable, ASP is essentially just a party trick.

If you're looking for one that will actually be enjoyable to project, Gangbusters at Reynolds Wall is stellar and is also on the way, way softer side of 11a. The Opportunist is also excellent though much more stout and typically much more crowded.

A new addition, Chopping Block at the Abattoir is a pretty great line but will probably only be in season for another month or so.

Archangel at Pearly Gates is a super fun climb with a winter season that you'll likely never run into crowds at and is in a super rad and secluded spot. If you're a gym climber, this is probably the climb most similar to gym climbing of these recommendations.

Lastly, Old Pirates up at Lookout. Not a stellar climb by any means but access is easy and the boulder problem down low is pretty solid. Bring a stick clip if this is your choice.

Honestly, judging from your ticks, I wouldn't really expect any of these to take you much time at all.

Lane Mathis wrote:

FWIW, I think Reefer Madness is one of the most overrated pitches of climbing I have ever done. 

Agreed. 

Maybe everyone's just high.

People have mentioned these above but heres an extra bump for:

1. Walking with a Ghost & Aretnophobia in Canal Zone. 

2. Old Pirates at Tiers Of Zion. 

Reefer Madness and Free Willie were my first 11s. Reefer madness is a good pitch, not sure why it's getting hate

private idaho is in the shade part of the day and fun to get to and from

staunton has so many three star 5.11a like the aco kid and the opportunist and its not hot temps

All of the .11 at Little Eiger. Those were some of my first on sights in that range. Walking With The Ghost is pretty easy for the grade too, if you’re good at crimps and balance you might get it first go.

“I’m looking for a closely bolted 11a close to golden”

“Here’s a fully trad fist crack 2.5 hours away”

Mountain Project continues to deliver

Hey OP while you’re at it this might be a good first 5.11 for you. If you onsight it you stand a reasonable chance of getting Reefer Madness done in a day

I would suggest Animal World, lots good ones there. Joint Venture would be an easy one. 

joint venture

Jarrod K wrote:

A little bit of a drive from Golden, but Horn’s Mother.  Benchmark 11a and likely to make any in Clear Creek feel easier

I'd like to nominate Jarrod for the 2023 sand bagger of the year award. Well done sir!

Throw in some easily approachable 11a's in the front range too. I'd recommend Athlete's Feat on a hot summer day.

Free Willie (Animal World, BoCan) and High Tides (Capitalist Crag, Clear Creek) were my first 11s! Aretnophobia (Canal Zone, Clear Creek) is also okay but I think harder than the first 2.

I climb alot in this range so I had to add to the list.  Curious George goes climbing at other critters crag was one of my first 11a s. And right next door at other critters there is Lil dog which is a great longer harder 11a/b and dog breathe which is a fun stout .10.