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Must do (and even second tier) bouldering areas per state
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Inspired by the sport climbing thread about must do crags, what are the bouldering areas worth visiting in each state? I'll start with a few, some obvious, some less so- Colorado- RMNP Flagstaff Evans 3 sisters Klettergarden Horsetooth Utah- Moes Joes LCC California- Buttermilks Happies/Sads Columbia ?JTree Idaho- The Channel Wyoming- Cabin Boulders (Sinks) New Mexico- Roy Socorro Texas- Hueco Arizona- Priest Draw |
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WA: Leavenworth, gold bar, index. Empire/Carson if you’re stretching and near Portland. OR: not too many great crags, but a few decent ones at carver (portland), bend/central or. Smith rock has some boulders but obviously more so for sport. TN: Chattanooga/stone fort/Little Rock city. Dayton pocket/laurel falls GA: rocktown NC: rumbling bald AL: horse pens 40 IL: holy boulders WI: devils lake, governor dodge MI: Marquette MN: Duluth NV: red rock |
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Anyone have suggestions for Wyoming outside the Winds? Planning to be driving from Ten Sleep to COR next month and would love to stop somewhere. |
Mark E Dixon wrote: The Rock Shop would seem to be a good option. Outside Lander, a bit past Wild Iris. Would be right on the way for you driving from Ten Sleep to COR. Normal accessible bouldering area (as opposed to the Wind River backcountry expedition bouldering). Haven't been there myself (the time I spent in Lander was before Rock Shop got developed), but hear good things. There's a recent guidebook by David Lloyd. https://www.mountainproject.com/area/114550551/the-rock-shop |
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UT: Ibex Way cooler than LCC in my opinion, but I'm not a super strong boulderer |
Mark E Dixon wrote: May not be typical bouldering but the voo has a ton |
Mark E Dixon wrote: I'll have a try at California. Many areas worth visiting, though not all necessarily "must visit". Breaking into tiers, with comments. Not comprehensive; definitely overlooking some spots. Tier 1: Must-visit mega destinations, internationally notable Bishop (grouping Buttermilks and Tablelands together) Yosemite/Tuolumne (the bouldering in Yosemite NP gets overshadowed by the long trad climbs, and as such it can be overlooked as a bouldering destination. But it's probably the best granite bouldering in the country). Tier 2: Major destinations, regionally to nationally notable JTree (some might protest this being Tier 2 based on its historic fame and popularity, but I think it's grainy rock quality lowers it a tier in modern bouldering. Probably still a "must visit" for the landscape, history, and some standout classics) Tahoe (Not really a single destination, more like a region with many sub-areas. Massive quantity, variable quality, but plenty of good stuff.) Black Mountain / Tramway Mammoth Lakes area Tier 3: Sleeper destinations, not typically on the road trip circuit, but worth considering for a trip. Columbia (quality is crazy high; would be a major destination is quantity was higher). Santa Barbara (good sandstone bouldering, near the beach; great vacation spot). Various southern Sierra areas (SEKI, etc - more development and documentation needed to become a major destination) Tier 4: High quality local zones, worth side a trip if in the area but not a major destination on its own Redwood Coast beach boulders Sonoma Coast beach boulders Castle Rock (better than it gets credit for, IMO) San Diego area (locals might protest this not being higher) Tier 5: Other local zones. Still a good time and worth a stop if passing through. Other Bay area boulders Stoney Point Other Socal spots? |
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Utah- I’ll be super honest with you, Moe’s isn’t amazing. If you’re goito be in St. George go sport climbing. That being said there’s some good lines and nice sandstone for a day or two. Joe’s and LCC are for sure my pick. So many high quality lines with stunning rock. There’s been some more boulder development in the Uintas and it’s pretty stellar as well despite some insane approaches. I can also highly recommend some of the alpine stuff around Guardsman Pass in big cottonwood. There’s some sweet lines up there. Montana- Lost Horse Canyon is pretty sick-featured granite is AWESOME. There’s also a few sweet areas around Bozeman but nothing in particular sticks out. Idaho- Castle rocks. Amazing amazing amazing and you can also climb sport and trad in the city and the rest of castle rocks. Plenty of development potential all over Idaho too. Never been to the Channel but I’ve heard it’s sick. Nevada- Red Rocks is the obvious pick with such amazing sandstone but Tahoe while mainly California is sweet as well. Alabama- HP40. Scrambled around there when I was very small and staying in the South. Would love to go back-the stone is AMAZING |
Mark E Dixon wrote: Flagstaff isn't worth visiting if you are in state lol, it isn't even the best bouldering in Boulder. It sure is convenient though. Anyways here's my list for Colorado going off the guy above me... Tier 1: RMNP/Estes Park area - mostly just going off of rock quality here, reservation system and crowds make it a pain in the ass and the landings generally aren't very good, also just really scenic. Definitely draws the international crowd. Lots of famous testpieces here like Whispers of Wisdom, which is one of the best V10s anywhere. Newlin Creek - probably some of the best rock in the state Poudre Canyon - also some of the best rock in the state Tier 2: Mt. Evans - A lot of people would say this is a world class destination but honestly the rock just isn't that good at Lincoln compared to other places, plus its a lot of crawling out of holes. Secret Garden - Man if the access issues here weren't so bad it would be one of the best zones in the state. Really great rock and awesome lines like Gorilla Truck Killa and Limitless Peak to Peak Hwy - Lots of great boulders but the zones are just too spread out to be a destination trip for anyone, however it has attracted the international crowd on some occasions. Boulder Canyon - Really great rock for the most part and some of the most iconic lines in the state including The Game, The Amendment, etc. Swissco - One of my favorites. Great rock in an incredibly scenic alpine setting. Selection is quite limited however. Tier 3: Eldorado Canyon/Flatirons - Geologically the same rock as Flagstaff, however the lines just tend to be more proud and enjoyable, and rock quality seems to be slightly better. New climbs going up to this day which is pretty cool S. Platte - Personal favorite but a bias since I live there. Definitely some ultra mega lines on some of the best rock in the state, but the zones are just too spread out and the rock quality varies from the worst kitty litter you've ever touched and some of the best rock anywhere. On average the rock quality and lines tend to be pretty mid. I haven't really climbed much at elevenmile, sheep's nose, or thunder ridge but from what I hear the rock quality down there is overall quite a bit better than the northern sector. I'll go ahead and include 3 sisters as part of the S. Platte region. Clear Creek Canyon - Not a huge fan of Clear Creek but there are definitely some great lines on great rock here. Empire - Same rock as Clear Creek but tends to be a bit quieter. Rock can vary from nice and friendly holds to some really sharp and shitty stuff. Tier 4: Morrison - IMO a better local spot than Flagstaff in terms of rock quality but the selection is small, great local spot. Everything is greasy though. Some truly iconic lines such as Breashear's Crack II and Arrowhead Arete. Not a fan of the black hole though. Tier 5: Flagstaff - really chunky and greasy rock, dab rigs, and just ugly in my opinion. Not sure what the hype is here, maybe just because it's roadside in boulder? Idk. No standout lines for me. |
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Nice tier list for CO. We should try to get some other states in on that format also. It would be better described though as a Front Range tier list, rather than statewide. Where do the Western Slope areas fit in here? Unaweep? Durango sandstone? Skyland? |
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And, what about Horsetooth? |
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In colorado I would skip flagstaff and three sisters unless you literally only have 3 hours. The flatiorns are a bit better but still meh. Everything in the front range besides the park and area a-c is not destination worthy. Area A is the tits tho. In colorado, Independence pass is destination worthy amazingness. The San Juans have some decent rock, better then the front range. The sailing hawks and the mine shaft boulders are really cool. Unaweep is an awesome setting with unlimited potential, the rock breaks tho In New Mexico, the ortegas is truly an amazing destination with some of the best rock in the states, good luck getting beta on it. The Jemez is an awesome place to climb but too sharp to be a destination. Socorro also does not get the attention it deserves. Arizona, Cochise is such an amazing place to go bouldering. Don't miss it even if its not on peoples circuit. Really hueco is the superior american destination Arkansas has great great bouldering, better then anything in the west. Cowell is awesome The New is really really good bouldering as well. HP 40 is destination worthy The teatons are kind of like a better version of RMNP, they just require alot more effort. |
Mark Vigil wrote: I’m curious about Arkansas bouldering-I’m hopefully going to take a gap year in a few years here and would love to climb down south. What makes the bouldering down there better than out West? And what areas do you recommend? |
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Obviously Stoney Point!! |
Eric Chabot wrote: I’d like some recommendations for Ibex! Hoping to get out there in the fall and see how it is compared to LCC and Joe’s |
JCM wrote: TBH I'm shocked we even got this high haha. It's great here but it also sucks here. For OR, The Garden has always been a ton of fun. Not world class, but very fun. |
Addy S wrote: Go out there with a bunch of friends, pads, maybe some drugs. Walk around and climb the boulders that you see. Sometimes it's better to have less beta. Just go check it out and climb on things that look fun. Check the wind forecast before you go... Or get your hands on the black Bible |
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Pennsylvania: Tier 1: Mt Gretna (Governor Dick), Haycock, Hunters Rocks, Alleghany National Forest Tier 2: The Wissahickon, Rock Run Maryland: Tier 1: The Secret Eastern crag, Harpers Ferry Tier 2: The various patapsco outcrops, Morgan run Delaware: Tier 1: Rockford park (only crag in the state it gets tier 1 by default). |
Eric Chabot wrote: Haha, no way I’m getting my hands on the black Bible. Hopefully will go out there for an adventure in the fall |
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Wyoming: Tier 1: Rock Shop, Tetons (Death, String, Garnet), Devil's Kitchen, Needle Peak, Neverland Tier 2: Cedar Mountain, Oz/Sweetwater, Voo, Falcons Liar, Galaxy Best of luck lol |
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Washington The destination bouldering in WA is highly concentrated in one part of the state, the granite areas along the HWY 2 corridor. Outside of that corridor, it's generally just local areas that would be a stop if passing through, but not a destination to travel for. Tier 1: Leavenworth is the best bouldering destination in WA and a good destination for the western US generally. High concentration of good problems, generally good landings, easy access, nearby food/lodging amenities in town, great scenery, and a drier eastern-slope climate that allows for reasonably reliable spring and fall seasons with good conditions. The granite itself is kind of middling in quality, but everything else makes up for that. Tier 2: Skykomish Valley areas (Gold Bar, Index, Miller River areas, etc) offer better rock quality than Leavenworth, and very high quality problems, but the logistical factors aren't as favorable. Areas are spread out, very backwoods, access/approaches can be weird in some areas, and the western-slope climate makes for frustrating conditions (no reliable cool and dry season to plan a visit; problems moss over quickly). As such, not ideal as a destination to plan a visit to, despite the quality of the climbing. These other factors (especially the unreliable season) are what drop it to Tier 2. But if you happen to be in the area when the weather is good, you'll be impressed by some of the best rock quality in the US. A good option is to plan a spring or fall Leavenworth trip, with the option to drive over to the Sky Valley (only 1 hour) as a side trip if the weather allows. [Huge gap] Tiers 3-5 Local areas scattered throughout the state. Spokane area boulders, Bellingham sandstone, Columbia Gorge basalt. Not destinations, but they are there is passing through.
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