Ice axe length

Hey everyone, I'm thinking about getting a new, lighter axe for some Pacific Northwest volcanoes and some routes in the Tetons. My current mountaineering axe is 70cm and is heavy. I was cheating with a 56 cm Grivel Super Courmayeur with an Evolution pick that could go back and forth between mountaineering and water ice/alpine ice routes, but thinking a lighter axe might be nice. Thinking of the Petzl Summit and wondering about length and whether 52 or 59 cm. I'm 5'10.

I’m 6’1” and like the 59cm summit for west coast volcanoes. You might be able to get away with the 52 if you have + ape index, but you should try it out. My 5’8” wife likes the 52. 

As other have said a 60 cm axe will be all round ideal for someone who is 5'10". I am 6' and that is what I use. On lower angle slopes I use ski poles.

Are we talking routes with proper snow/neve climbing or purely glacier slogs? 60cm is awful long at your height for using it as anything other than a cane on a glacier. Could be worthwhile investing in two axes and having a tool that more appropriately suites glacier travel & one for steeper climbing. 70cm is crazy at 5'10" IMO. Personally I think the 52cm summit is a great choice at 5'10".

This chart from Blue Ice on axe length might be helpful: 

Cheers,

-Marco

Evan Stone wrote:

Are we talking routes with proper snow/neve climbing or purely glacier slogs? 60cm is awful long at your height for using it as anything other than a cane on a glacier. Could be worthwhile investing in two axes and having a tool that more appropriately suites glacier travel & one for steeper climbing. 70cm is crazy at 5'10" IMO. Personally I think the 52cm summit is a great choice at 5'10".

I think if anything gets really steep, I'd go to my technical tools instead of a lightweight axe. Is the Summit worthwhile for neve and alpine ice? I have two straight shaft carbon fiber Black Prophets still, plus a pair of Reactors, that I figure I could use on steeper couloirs, etc.

I am 6’2” and prefer shorter axes most of the time. If it’s low angle, I just use a trekking pole. If it’s high angle, a long axe is really scary to plunge because when I have to pull it out of the hole, I have to reach so high I feel off balance. I’ve heard of people pulling out their back muscles doing this also.

I like the 45cm petzl gulley / ride unless I need to pound a picket into firm snow then those are far too light.

A 52cm axe is plenty in my opinion. If my axe can’t touch the ground then I’m on low angle terrain, and don’t need an axe except for self arrest in the event of a partner’s crevasse fall.

Once it can touch the ground, I’m on steep terrain, need an axe, and prefer a shorter length for the reasons above. 

C H wrote:

I think if anything gets really steep, I'd go to my technical tools instead of a lightweight axe. Is the Summit worthwhile for neve and alpine ice? I have two straight shaft carbon fiber Black Prophets still, plus a pair of Reactors, that I figure I could use on steeper couloirs, etc.

I guess at some point it comes down to ability/preference/comfort level. up to ~55 degrees or AI3ish petzl gully or blue ice akila are seriously capable tools.

Alex Fletcher wrote:

I am 6’2” and prefer shorter axes most of the time. If it’s low angle, I just use a trekking pole. If it’s high angle, a long axe is really scary to plunge because when I have to pull it out of the hole, I have to reach so high I feel off balance. I’ve heard of people pulling out their back muscles doing this also.

I like the 45cm petzl gulley / ride unless I need to pound a picket into firm snow then those are far too light.

A 52cm axe is plenty in my opinion. If my axe can’t touch the ground then I’m on low angle terrain, and don’t need an axe except for self arrest in the event of a partner’s crevasse fall.

Once it can touch the ground, I’m on steep terrain, need an axe, and prefer a shorter length for the reasons above. 

This. I'm 5'10" as well and always have 45cm gully's on me until there is sustained AI3. They aren't stellar for pounding pickets, but they are sufficient and their small size makes it pretty easy to place them in a t-slot.

Im 6ft and prefer my petzl sum’tecs over my petzl summit. Mountaineering in WA this season I opted to use a combo of one sum’tec and ski pole. I prefer an ice axe that is good and comfortable for self arrest rather than as a walking cane.

Steven R wrote:

Im 6ft and prefer my petzl sum’tecs over my petzl summit. Mountaineering in WA this season I opted to use a combo of one sum’tec and ski pole. I prefer an ice axe that is good and comfortable for self arrest rather than as a walking cane.

I do like the Sum’tec a lot. If I needed one solid do it all tool, that’s the one. Very capable. 

The shorter your axe is, the cooler you are. Done come here with that 70 cm pice of shit!

Update: I went for a 52. I use trekking poles a lot.  When I climbed to Camp Muir last month it's all I needed.  Wished I'd had a lightweight axe to glissade down with

For easier alpine snow/ice terrain a Whippet, and a pair of Sum’Tecs (or equivalent) will provide combos for anything till you hit harder than WI4/ M something

Steven R wrote:

Im 6ft and prefer my petzl sum’tecs over my petzl summit. Mountaineering in WA this season I opted to use a combo of one sum’tec and ski pole. I prefer an ice axe that is good and comfortable for self arrest rather than as a walking cane.

I actually find my longest axe (60cm Raven Pro) to  the best self arrest axe, then my Camp Corsa (55cm), and Petzl Gully (45cm) the worst.
So for me, comparing those models, longer was actually better for self arrest, as well as obviously better for piolet cane use.

Plus, it’s not uncommon to have a steeper section, followed by a lower angle section. Unless you plan on swapping between axes and poles all the time, it’s nice to be able to use your axe in cane mode, at least a little bit. (At 6’5” even the 60cm is still pretty far from level ground for me)

Tjaard Breeuwer wrote:

I actually find my longest axe (60cm Raven Pro) to  the best self arrest axe, then my Camp Corsa (55cm), and Petzl Gully (45cm) the worst.
So for me, comparing those models, longer was actually better for self arrest, as well as obviously better for piolet cane use.

Plus, it’s not uncommon to have a steeper section, followed by a lower angle section. Unless you plan on swapping between axes and poles all the time, it’s nice to be able to use your axe in cane mode, at least a little bit. (At 6’5” even the 60cm is still pretty far from level ground for me)

Sure, think it’s ultimately personal preference as well as terrain. For me I can comfortably self arrest with my sumtec, and I’m usually on skis (for approach) so have ski poles.

Also a good video on the topic youtu.be/_3BBfpcqv1o?si=fZT…