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Is it better to use 8mm or 10mm width slings for trad draws?

Original Post
Dave the Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0

Hi there,

I'm tryng to decide whether to get 8mm or 10mm width (60 cm length) slings to use for trad draws.

Which is better? Do I go for less bulk/weight or more durability?

Thanks.

James Moffatt · · Reno NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 20

Mammut Contact slings are my favorite sling.  I doubt you'll notice a difference in durability, specifically for alpine draws I'd always go with lightest weight/lowest bulk.  

John Pitcairn · · Arapuni, Waikato · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 1

10mm is significantly more bulky once you have a bunch racked with other gear.

Been using 8mm beal, petzl and mammut for over a decade. Not finding any durability issues, they get to the point where partners start asking how old the fuzzy things are (velcro glove snags, ahem) then maybe time to replace.

Stefan Jacobsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0

Mammut Contact slings are my go to for alpine draws too, and I accept the fact that dyneema is less durable than nylon.

timothy fisher · · CHARLOTTE · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 30

I am using the even skinnier 6mm edelwiess in 60 cm with good results. For shorter 20 to 30 cm i like a mix of 8 to 10 mm

tom donnelly · · san diego · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 394

8mm dyneema slings (Mammut) wear out MUCH faster than other slings.

google translated link
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwio4-_w19KAAxVtjokEHQWdDlgQFnoECA4QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.alpenverein.de%2Fchameleon%2Fpublic%2F1710c3f7-77d8-c1dd-d63b-f619124ee2c1%2FAging-of-Slings_26368.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1Sf_3QiDlkOWxX6MOZrK7J&opi=89978449
for example
For 3-5 year old dyneema, only about 3% are still full strength. (the green bar)
For 3-5 year old nylon, 100% were still full strength. 

Nathaniel Francis · · Boulder · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 90

I mainly have the 8mm contact slings. I also have a few 10mm beal ones. The 8mm is just a little smaller on the harness which is quite nice for alpine climbs or when you have 10-12 on your harness. The weight of them is the exact same, so it is really just bulk. The 10mm will last a little longer, but to me the smaller size is more important. 

Philippe Queiroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 31

I've been using the skinny 6mm from beal, and i love them. Never noticed them wearing out faster than 8 or 10mm and they are so light ant low profile that you can rack up 20 of them and still have avaible space..

Mark Webster · · Tacoma · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 235

The skinnier the slings, the more tangle prone. I'm known for my heavy pack, so take this advice with a grain of salt. I prefer the standard width shoulder length nylon slings from either Metolius or BD. It's the same stuff they use on their cams. They are extremely durable and have a bit of dynamic stretch. Plus they can be knotted and untied easily. I was also enamored with the super skinny shoe string slings when they first came out 15 years back. But after many problems with tangles and jammed knots I went back to the tried and true nylon. And, the nylon is cheaper. Obviously if you are an alpine climber counting ounces go with the lightest sling. 

Chris Smead · · San Jose, CA · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 0

I recently purchased 10x Edelrid 8mm shoulder length slings to replace my BD 10mm dynex ones.  
I was pretty bummed to find the weight difference of all 10 slings was not enough to register on my kitchen scale.   

James Moffatt · · Reno NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 20

From Tom's link: "Dyneema, too, must be evaluated differently for different uses. Here, too, a use as a quickdraw (alpine climbing too) is less problematic, because in this application strength is not reduced further by knots."  Sure, it's not unusual to use an alpine draw to rig a simple anchor, but Dave originally asked specifically about slings for draws.  

"There is a clear correlation between appearance and strength here too! It's also proven that age is reflected in appearance: The material is bright white when new. It gets darker and darker through use and becomes fuzzy from the friction in knots, on the rock, etc. That makes it possible to deduce strength from appearance."  As long as you're inspecting your gear, you're mitigating a lot of the "risk" of less durable slings.  I prefer nylon or mixed fiber slings for anchor building where there is contact, or risk of contact, with the rock.  Dyneema slings are definitely less abrasion resistant, so the increased weight with nylon is an acceptable tradeoff in that situation, in my mind.  So I usually have one or two alpines with a mixed fiber sling for use on anchors, or for extension in terrain that would increase that risk of abrasion.  

As previous posters have said, the biggest advantage of Dyneema slings isn't in the weight savings, it's in the reduced bulk.  I look at the minor weight savings as a secondary advantage.

Sam Oudekerk · · Flagstaff, MN · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Go for bd dynex 10mm if on sale. It’s a good compromise of cost, weight, bulk, durability, and easier to untie.

Mammut contact slings have a looser weave and imo get snagged and fuzzy (damaged) way too fast.

Cosmic Hotdog · · Southern California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 295

I carry a lot of alpine draws (12+ often) so I always choose 8mm. They just feel a lot less bulky especially when I've got a double rack on me already

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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