Rock Climbing Skill Level vs. BJJ Belt/Skill Level
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Brazilian Jiu Jitsu is a sport that I’ve always been interested in, and I’ve gotten curious how people who do both think the skill levels compare. For example, what climbing grades would purple belt correlate to? Do you have to achieve a certain proficiency in multiple climbing disciplines to be at black belt level? I know that belts, kind of like grades, encompass a range. I’m just curious to get some opinions and hear conjecture on the comparison. |
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Do you train in BJJ or are you just "interested" in it? |
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FrankPS wrote: I did it for about 9 months in 2019 but stopped to focus more on climbing. I never got to a proficient level, so mostly I’m just “interested” in it. |
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No black belt until high levels are reached in trad, sport and bouldering combined although you could probably forego bouldering though since accomplished climbers of any style can do it without any practice or training. |
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Fun topic.... Black belt = 8a? I don't train martial arts but this seems like a cultural equivalency. The Japanese dankyu grading system puts shodan (black belt) at v7 which seems a little low... i don't think you need to do it all to be a black belt climber...Seems like there are multiple disciplines of climbing, and multiple of martial arts you can train. Bouldering, trad, sport. Jiu-jitsu, muy Thai, karate. You could be a BJJ black belt but be a crappy striker, much like an off width climber who doesn't sport climb. |
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Joel May wrote: I started with BJJ almost ten years ago and just within the last three years got into climbing. I can safely say that climbing exponentially increases grip strength and flexibility, which is really nice for bjj. I’ve surprised some of my friends by hanging on more than they expect or being able to get a triangle faster and easier than I used to. Grades and belts really don’t correlate at all; I think both climbing and BJJ compliment each other really well though, |
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There is no reasonable comparison. I did BJJ for well over 10 years, lived in Brazil, had over 200 matches, did a paid MMA fight and a bunch of stuff. I still suck at climbing. If you want a black belt in BJJ you need to beat people up on the mats and if you want to climb 8a, you better climb 8a. |
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Wictor Dahlström wrote: Hey, I think you may have misunderstood the question. I’m curious about what levels are analogous in climbing and BJJ, not how skill in one transfers to another. |
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Lifelong martial artist. Started BJJ in 2003, trained full time for well over a decade. In BJJ you can become a black belt by showing up and mastering the techniques. With that in mind, it one were to draw comparisons, it likely wouldn't be grades to belts or anything like that. Technical proficiency would correlate better. A certified AMGA guide with a decade or more of experience working in the field could equal a professor in Jiu jitsu. Athletically, they're hard to compare on a scale. Even the "best" athlete in each sport is hard to compare. Adam ondra has climbed the hardest grades AND climbed things like the dawn wall. A big wall trad route far removed from sport climbing on limestone . Gordon Ryan, the best grappler on the planet, hasn't completed or medaled in Gi competition, only No gi, therefore doesn't have the well rounded accolades of Adam ondra. |
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Kyle Elliott wrote: Yeah skill level doesn't necessarily equate to performance in sports. You can be highly skilled but if your physical abilities have declined due to age or injury someone with less skill can still outperform you. I never did BJJ but I wrestled D1 in college and for some years afterwards in grad school and I saw a former Olympian around 60 who would work out with incoming freshman. Vast difference in skill level but performance was roughly equal. |
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I think that the percentage of the population that will actually get able to climb 8a would be way less than the percentage that can achive a belt belt in BJJ. It you just train BJJ dedicated manner in 15 years you pretty much should have a black belt. No matter how time you spend climbing, it is not certain at all that you will climb 8a in your life. |
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I've been training BJJ on/off since 2004 (definitely more off, as climbing got in the way). I think Belt level comparison might be accurate, but actual training volume in years is WAY off. Most recreational climbers I know are NOT dedicating 3-4 days/week on focused training (movement/systems/techniques), yet that seems to be the norm for most "average-joe" BJJ practitioners. If climber's did do that, then would also possibly be a "Black Belt" in climbing after a decade. However I think most climber do far far less focused training and drilling in a 10 year time span. Interesting comparison! |
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I find it interesting that most are interested in comparing climbing grade to belts. It seems to me maybe skill sets should be a large part of that also? Like it's a huge time investment to get to the point that you can big wall, multipitch trad alpine climb, etc.. doing all that at a 5.11 or 5.12 level seems more analogous to a black belt to me in that it involves both proficiency at a skill and significant knowledge that you only gain by putting in the time and paying your dues. |