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One quickdraw to rule them all

Summorum Pontificum · · Western Europe · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0
James Moffatt wrote:

Previous posters are right that sport draws on nuts isn't ideal, and can also contribute to cams walking, but really there's nothing wrong with sport draws on pieces in super solid placements and alpines on the more tenuous gear.  

Dave Baker wrote:
My opinion for this usage, which was already mentioned above, is to get the set of sport draws you want, and then supplement with alpine draws for trad.  Be careful using sport draws on gear - keep the bolt-end biner away from the rope, and be careful with gear walking or lifting with the shorter extension.

I'm aware of the issues you mentioned but I would like to point out that:

  • I plan to take apart some quickdraws and use them in an alpine configuration with a 60cm sling so I will carry a mix of long draws and alpines
  • Dogbones like Petzl Finesse seems to hit the sweet spot between sport (they are wide and stiff enough for grabbing) and alpine usage (they are soft in the top part so they bend when rope moves but still don't rotate on itself on the long axis, and they are very light)

I've seen some interesting new gear from Climbing Technology (don't know if it's available brand in USA). They have some interesting dogbones in 12, 17 and 22 cm. They are called Extender Dy and also a new product for 2024 called Extender UL Pro. Very interesting! Weight is on par to Petzl Finesse on other skinny dogbones!!

Pino Pepino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0
Dave Baker wrote:

The DMM Alpha Trad is my absolute favourite biner for alpine draws, but has been discontinued and replaced by the DMM Alpha Wire.

For sport, the DMM Alpha Sport is solid gate and hard to beat.

Anyone considering buying the DMM Alpha Sport should be aware that, while they handle very nicely, they also wear like butter. Two of my friends have these and are looking to replace them. A few years in, all of their draws look like in-situ draws at heavily frequented crags, causing excessive rope wear. Neither of them would buy them again. They have other draws that are older that they climb on just as much that look nowhere near as worn.

These draws always get recommended on here, I'm kind of surprised nobody noticed this yet.

Pino Pepino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0
Summorum Pontificum wrote:

I've seen some interesting new gear from Climbing Technology (don't know if it's available brand in USA). They have some interesting dogbones in 12, 17 and 22 cm. They are called Extender Dy and also a new product for 2024 called Extender UL Pro. Very interesting! Weight is on par to Petzl Finesse on other skinny dogbones!!

I have their sport draws (Lime Set NY Pro) and am very happy with them. Climbing Technology isn't commonly available in the US, so people here don't know the draws very well. Since you're in Europe, if you google a bit the Lime NY Pro draws can be found on sale for about 65€ for a pack of six, sometimes even cheaper.                                            

James Scully · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Surprised no one has mentioned Wild Country Heliums as one of the best liners around.  Yes, they are on the heavier side and more expensive, but they feel good in your hand, clipping is easy and I think they are very durable.  I pair them with 60cm BD runners and they have worked in a variety of environments I.e rock, ice, snow, desert without any issues. In a pinch, I have used them sport climbing but prefer the Petzl Angle Finesse draw for that discipline as well as ice.  Wild country makes sport draws too, and wouldn't mind at all having a set. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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