Third Hand on Rappel?

I typically run the rope from rappel device to Autoblock or similar on a locking biner on my leg. An old school climber recommended it in case you get whacked by a rock and lights out- this way at least you stop falling while unconscious…

Haven’t seen many people run a third hand. Is it just more of a multi-pitch deal? Downsides?

It depends on the terrain that I'm in and what I'm trying to do.

If I'm rappelling a single pitch just to get to the bottom and there isn't any overhead hazard and I don't have any reason to stop mid-pitch then I'm inclined to rappel directly off the belay loop without a backup, I can usually ask my partner for a fireman's belay if I need to go hands free and it wasn't expected.

If I'm rappelling off a multipitch route and there might be route finding challenges or objective hazards above then I'm nearly always going to extend my device off my belay loop with some sort of extension and add a third hand backup on my belay loop.  I'll use this too if I have to clean gear at the crag so I can easily go hands free, especially if there is a chance that I would need to ascend the rope.

I think what I do is fairly typical for current best practices, a lot of climbers who have been climbing for a long time didn't learn to extend their devices away from there belay loops and seem resistant to adopting that practice now but it really is my preferred way to do things.

Modern wisdom on rappelling safely is to back up tube style rappel devices with an autoblock. Further, you should extend your rappel device and clip the autoblock to your belay loop, rather than just using your leg loop. This video shows how to set up a rappel (skip to about halfway through for the actual rappel device setup). This video goes deeper into some rappel extension options, but is far from exhaustive. The subject of the myriad of ways to set up a rappel extension and their intersection with various sorts of PAS has become a bit of a niche tech tip series by the various Instagram guides. Personally, I don't use a PAS, and have been defaulting to an offset basket hitch rappel extension as of late, although I've experimented with, used and continue to use a variety of methods depending on the exact scenario and application.

Among a variety of other main benefits to extending a rappel device, one significant advantage of the extended rappel setup is its ability to easily be converted into a progress capture device when using a "guide style" or autoblocking device like the ATC Guide or Reverso or similar, enabling easy ascension of the rope. This has made my day much easier on several occasions while looking for unobvious rappel anchors.

Finally, although it wasn't explicitly mentioned in your post, you really shouldn't be rappelling in single pitch environments very often. Lowering off of single pitch anchors is the norm in most single pitch areas these days, and offers significant safety and time benefits over rappelling. This position is a bit controversial, especially among the old guard, but is becoming more and more widely accepted.

In short, I think most professional climbing educators would advocate for using an extended rappel setup with an autoblock when rappelling with a tube style device in most, if not all, occasions where such a rappel is warranted. 

I generally extend my rappel and backup with an auto block. I always have my PAS rigged with my harness, so I can tether myself and weight my rappel device before unclip. I like auto block backup, even if you only clip one strand in your rappel device, and your Prussik cord will catch you. I even go with a step further by using ATC break on the rope before first person rappel, this would make each strand acts as independent rope. Even the rope gets cut somehow or rappel off one end, the person should be okay.

To me, if I need to spend extra 20/30 seconds to make climbing safer, I won't be hesitant to do that. 

Phil M wrote:

Haven’t seen many people run a third hand. Is it just more of a multi-pitch deal? Downsides?

I see third-hand raps all the time with most of my multi-pitch partners. Still, most of those just dabble in multi-pitch or belong to a club that advocates third-hand raps - and had a recent related rap accident.

2 to 1 odds that this is a troll post. 

To Phil,

I haven’t seen it written here yet so I’m going to say WHY folks avoid the leg loop as the spot to clip the autoblock.

The reason is that if you do get knocked out, you’re going to flip upside down, your leg will rise up to meet your atc and will interfere with the function of the autoblock hitch. It will touch the ATC and cause it to slide down and fail. Then you’d fall anyway, defeating the purpose.

To answer your Q, yes, a lot of folks use back up hitches, but most will recommend the backup is clipped to your belay loop and the your ATC is extended from your belay loop so that the two can never touch whether you’re upside down or not. 

2 to 1 odds that this is a troll post.

Automation doing the lords work of building up the beginner's FAQ,

There’s a lot of helpful stuff here that I hadn’t thought of. Thank you to those who were constructive 

Phil M wrote:

Haven’t seen many people run a third hand. Is it just more of a multi-pitch deal? Downsides?

I almost always run a third hand when rappelling. And yes it's a multi pitch deal. Because I'm lowering off single pitch routes ;)

Yeah, I’ve been extending the rappel device. Prior to extending, I had tried a variety of friction hitches above the device, but would have the occasional “lock up,” which was a real pain.

The extension and friction below made a big difference. I’ve been leg loop, but gotta try some of what is above.

The function of my rappels began with mining actually. Now, it’s mostly getting set to TR solo or the rare (for me) multi.

Phil,

When I top rope solo, I’m usually using a Gri Gri to rappel. Doesn’t need extension. Doesn’t need a backup either. Only works on single strand rappels such as TR solo fixed ropes. Can be used as ascender more easily and effectively than ATC. Can be used as TR solo device for UP and DOWN, although it kinda sucks for up. It is very effective as working a crux section where you want to repeatedly lower down a few feet to try again.  

I’ve been doing the TR solo on two strand (clove hitched at the biners on the quad). Running an ATC to rap down, then gri-gri on one strand and a micro traction on the other. Maybe it’s overkill- just “feels” a bit more secure having both strands.

It happens sometimes that I can’t complete the climb, so rather than rope dog my way up, I convert to ascender, pulley, gri-gri- still maintaining the micro traction on the spare strand.

I use an ATC and a 3rd hand.  The third hand saved my life.  I was still in ICU for nearly a week because of the head injury but I'm not dead (yet).

Edit:  I had flipped upside down as well.  I'm unsure if a GriGri would have worked in that situation.

I think a lot of people run a third hand. As many here have said. 

For me, I don't usually use a third hand on a single pitch rappel at a crag. Like when cleaning a single pitch route and just rapping down the pitch I just top roped (assuming I can't lower). I already know the rope is running all the way to the ground (my partner tells me it is), I know what terrain I'm rapping through, and I can get a firemans if I really want one. So I feel fine without the third hand. 

But for a lot of raps, I extend my rappel device and run the third hand off my belay loop. It's just way nicer. My favorite way to extend my rappel is to use a single-length sling basket hitched through my tie-in loops and then girth hitched to my rap biner. The girth hitch keeps the rap biner oriented correctly. My third hand gets attached to the belay loop. 

I really like extending the rappel and using the third hand for a few reasons:

• My hand is in a more comfortable position.
• The third hand protects my hand from heat generated by friction.
• If I'm rapping first I can let go to look around for the next anchor. And if the rope didn't get thrown clean, I can let go to faff around with the rope to get it to drop all the way.
• Feels nice to have a backup in case you accidentally let go due to rockfall or whatever. 

(The sling is through the belay loop in this photo I just took but that was an accident, I typically run it through my tie-ins. Works fine in the belay loop but going through the tie ins makes it shorter, which I prefer. I don't feel like retaking the photo...)

Some people want a locker for the third hand. I'm cool without one but you do you. 

drew A wrote:

• The third hand protects my hand from heat generated by friction.

True, but if this is a real concern for rappelling on 2 strands, I would question this combination of device wear state and rope for lead belaying.  (unless you're quite heavy, in which case my logic might not apply).