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Rate my winter training plan
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This is my tentative training plan for the winter and feedback is welcome. I'm both a trad climber and boulderer so my goals revolve around both of these. I typically climb trad during the summer and boulder during the winter. My current trad goals are to climb a 5.12 on lead and climb scenic cruise in the black. My current bouldering goal is to climb 5x outdoor V6s or higher this season. My MP tick list is mostly up to date with the caveat that the 5.11s that I TRS for training are not on there. Strengths: Balance, One-move-wonders, Heel Hooks, Legs/Feet, Jamming Middle Ground: Finger Strength, Power, Shoulder Stability, Core Weaknesses: Off-width, Endurance, Overhanging Terrain, Slopers Monday:
Tuesday: Take dog on a walk. Light lower body exercises |
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Have you thought about pacing? If you are good at balancey climbing and bad at 'endurance' and overhanging terrain, maybe you are climbing too slowly (many, many people climb too slow). Don't chill on holds for no reason. You might not need as much endurance as you think if you climb faster between rests. If you're TRSing on a route you know, climb for time. Should help with the overhanging climbing and the scenic cruise goal, where you'll enjoy the day much more if you're cruising instead of chilling on each hold. Just make sure your choss awareness is on point for the rock type if you're onsighting... |
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Thanks for the insight. I have been historically a slow climber but making my way out of that habit. My crack climbing endurance has become pretty good over this year and my overall speed at which I climb crack has improved significantly as well. My lack of endurance is more in regards to sport climbs and trad climbs that are not variations of jamming/stemming. I will definitely start timing my TRS sessions and maybe even add in the occasional sport climb to the TRS session. Thanks for the tip. |
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Given that you self-identify as a "historically a slow climber", one better option would be repeating the same problem but climbing each lap slightly faster. It would more directly address that limitation than doing a circuit of different problems. |
Jacob Rankin wrote: Couple thoughts here: You shouldn’t need 4 min rests between onsight-grade problems, and just 4 of them is too few. I would consider this to be part of your warmup, still, and maybe do them with less rests, or incorporate some kind of movement training into these attempts. E.g. they could be focusing on body tension, and you would try to hover every move, one rep trying to hover before latching the hold, and one rep trying to hover at the beginning of the move. Even though the focus of this session is stamina (presumably, bc you have on-the-minutes in this session), I think you can still have a bit of projecting before your OTM. Maybe just one or two mini-project level difficulty, something that you don’t onsight, but can send in 5-8 tries. I would do that after your 4 onsight-level problems, before OTMs. I would do all the upper-body weight-training ring exercises after OTMs, not before. I’m not sure how many hangboard grips are in your plan, but hopefully not do too many, if you are doing this before OTMs. Also not sure why you are choosing such long hangs (12sec). Are you trying to gain strength in this workout, or is this more of a finger warmup activity? For strength, I think you would want to do some added weight, even if it comes at the cost of using somewhat bigger holds.
8x V1-2 6x V3 4x V4-5 2x V6 Then reverse the pyramid. That gives you 40 problems in a session
Overall, Your approach looks like a strength and stamina phase of many training plans. Two days of stamina, 1-2 days of strength/limit bouldering. It’s good, as a start. But I wouldn’t do this same thing for several months without a change. I would do it for 4-6 weeks, tops, and also focus on your outdoor bouldering goal during this phase, and not worry so much about crack simulator. I’m not familiar with your goal route, but if it is overhanging, you probably need to change your focus from doing OTMs to more of s 4x4 type workouts. You could substitute Boulder doubles/triples for OTM in the subsequent block of 4-6 weeks, and then substitute 4x4s. And towards the end of your 2nd block you would shift the focus from outdoor bouldering goods to outdoor route goals. |
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For the 4 onsight problems, I agree that this could use some work. I think I used the term onsighting level a little incorrectly and should have termed them my MAX onsight level. Most of the 4 boulder attempts are on problems that take 3-5 tries to send. I find it hard to balance wanting to pull on something hard and wanting to get some sends. My hangboard routine really only focuses on half, full, open, and back 3 grip types. I have never had much success hangboarding so my goal here is both strength and to become comfortable on very small holds. I have no problem pulling a 20mm edge outdoors but find myself falling on those 10mm bastards. My goal with the OTM is for power endurance. I started this exact training technique at the end of last winter's training regiment and immediately noticed improvements (specifically on boulders with cruxes towards the top). I have tried pyramid style sessions in the past and saw very little improvement in overall climbing metrics. The crack simulator is not a priority in my mind and more of an afterthought. I dont plan on putting enough energy into it that it would detract from my other sessions or outdoor climbing. I imagine that once I spend a few weeks on this schedule that it will naturally start to adapt to what it needs to be for the rest of the winter. I am also thinking that my Friday session will incorporate more 4x4s and overhanging/sloper training and less OTM. Thanks for the input! |
Jacob Rankin wrote: The clarification re: max onsight level problems makes sense. But I don’t think you heard what I was trying to say about boulder goals vs route goals. I would separate them in time, and not try to train for both at the same time. It would be more efficient to focus on strength first, (and your bouldering goals), so do not worry enough cramming one session of 4x4s on a Fridays, while doing OTMs on Mondays. Do your 4-6 weeks of plan as described, and every time you go outdoors on Sundays try your hard bolder problems. Then switch things up. Start adding boulder doubles/triples instead of OTMs in the next 4-6 weeks, and maybe half of the weekends go try your hard boulder problems, and the other half try some harder routes with the mindset of “bouldering in the rope”, not sending. Just try harder routes that you always wanted to check out. And then the next block of 4-6 weeks forget about outdoor bouldering projects. Put all your outdoor efforts into your route goals. And forget about doing OTMs in the gym, do 4x4s instead, and maybe even get on ropes in the gym a few times. That’s roughly half a year, by the time you figure some deload weeks, non-climbing obligations, etc. and in that time you would definitely send a few new V6 boulders, and routes, if you are hitting the right intensity in your training. Obviously not set in stone: if you had gone for 6 weeks and you feel strong, and getting close on your boulder project, you don’t have to stop it, bc calendar says so. It’s just a general framework Then rinse and repeat. |
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If you've got access to outdoor sport climbing it could be helpful to mix in some onsite, flash, and second go redpoint climbing at your target grades. I have similar ambitions to your stated trad climbing goals and feel like once a week sport climbing is helping a lot. For a session I'll try to onsight four or so pitches of 5.10 and under and flash or second go three or so pitches of 5.11 and 5.12-. I think this kind of session mimics a medium length multi-pitch trad route in terms of volume and intensity. Plus you get a lot of practice in reading beta quickly, finding rests, committing to punching it through cruxes, relaxing on easier sections, and other movement skills that are helpful in trad climbing. |
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Consider working in some weighted pulls ups. Those have helped my shoulder strength a lot as well as gaining a bit more power. Use a slightly wider than shoulder width grip and shoot for about 5-7 reps and 4-5 sets per workout. The last pullup per set should feel pretty hard. |
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PM sent about one of your objectives. |
