OK Hive mind I need a new belay device

Using my trusty old reverso the other day I realised the poor old dear really is quite banged up and getting rather rough around the edges, maybe my habit of leaving it hanging off my belay loop when climbing doesn't help but I have an unreasonably high paranioa of dropping it!

Been looking at different options and thought I'd plumb the collective wisdom of the MP tradicles. Would Ideally like a device that does it all (atleast when 'outside'). Most of my climbing is either jolly old mountain crag mountain crag stuff with 8.5mm halfs or single pitch cragging with a 10mm, always trad. I usually belay indirect off the harness (as is the habit over here, UK) but do sometimes belay direct in 'guide mode'. I do use a grigri at the wall but had never really considered anything assisted for outdoors before.

So hese are my thoughts so far

Get another reverso, after all its worked so far.

DMM Pivot, 'cos lowering with the reverso in direct kinda sucks.

CT Alpine Up, I suspect good for the 8.5s but not so good for the single, also looks like can't be threaded whilst wire is clipped so droppable and seems heavy.

Mega jul, from what I've read can't take in one rope and feed other at same time, also stainless steel so will it get v hot on absails?

Anyway that's where I've got so far any input or other options welcome.

If you're staying with the tube style, I'm a big fan Mammut's Nordwand Alpine belay device. I found it easier than an ATC, Pivot, and Reverso for lowering off a direct belay, and it sure can take a beating. Off the top of my head, I think it may be shorter as well, if you're going to be keeping it on your belay loop, but I don't have the devices with me to measure them. It should be good for 7.5mm - 10.5mm ropes.

Just got a Giga Jul. pretty sweet as a do it all multipitch device. Can assisted break lead belay, rap without needing a prusik, etc. Alpine Up could also be sweet.

Mammut Smart but they are no longer being made.  

You might have a similar concern as with the Jul.  I haven't used it as a lead belay for twin/half ropes.  Otherwise, it does it all.

If you want an ABD I would look into getting a Gigajul or Megajul, or better yet, the Smart Alpine. The Smart seems to go for $70 used or $90 for new old stock, so they aren't cheap, but they're suuuuper low friction in guide mode, even lower than the famously low friction Gigi! Also it's a delight to rappel with and autolocks meaning no backup is necessary. 

I've been using the Micro Jul for skinny double ropes and really like it.  The auto lock rappel is nice and smooth with my 8.0 mm ropes. I have mixed thoughts on the Mega Jul for 9.5 ropes.  I don't like the rappel in auto brake mode.  I find it fatiguing on multi-pitch stuff.  If you have it in the non-auto lock mode it will lock when try to take bite up to hike yourself upward if necessary.  I think I prefer the Pivot for single ropes as it's much easier to lower in guide mode than the Mega Jul. 

DMM Pivot or Giga Jul if you want brake assist 

B U wrote:

DMM Pivot or Giga Jul if you want brake assist 

The Pivot doesn't have brake assist in lead belay or rappel like the Giga Jul.  It only has guide mode for top belay.

Gri Gri 2. 

Tossing it out there - I despise the Gigajul and Megajul. Using it correctly is a pain, using it incorrectly is dangerous, and having your partner use it is impossible.

King GiGi is king.

Get an alpine up and a triple rated rope.

Your thoughts about 10mm rope and alpine up are correct. 

FrankPS wrote:

You need to be able to make these decisions by yourself. Glad I could help.

And I'm glad I could help you to feel briefly better about yourself by acting all superior to a stranger on the internet.

To everyone else thanks for letting me ask about your experience etc when making my decision.

I wore down my DMM Pivot and now use Mammut Nordwand in hope that it would last a little longer. They are both perfectly fine and work with your range of ropes. I think both options is nice with 10 mm ropes than the Reverso.

P B wrote:

Tossing it out there - I despise the Gigajul and Megajul. Using it correctly is a pain, using it incorrectly is dangerous, and having your partner use it is impossible.

King GiGi is king.

I don't really get the Gigi hype, I just got one myself and belaying in guide mode wasn't really smoother than a bd atc or a Grigri. Maybe it's inly nice with a true round stock biner?

1 vote for the Pivot/Gigi combo.  In my experience, the GiGi is much smoother than the Pivot in guide mode.

You’ll be very unhappy with a DMM pivot with a 10mm rope. The distance front to back (pivot end to brake end) seems to be smaller than the BD, making it difficult to feed rope for a lead belay. I use a 9.4 and have relegated the pivot to  back-up duty. 

Climb On wrote:

You’ll be very unhappy with a DMM pivot with a 10mm rope. The distance front to back (pivot end to brake end) seems to be smaller than the BD, making it difficult to feed rope for a lead belay. I use a 9.4 and have relegated the pivot to  back-up duty. 

Still better to handle a 10 mm rope in the Pivot than an 8.5 mm rope in the ATC.

Wictor Dahlström wrote:

Still better to handle a 10 mm rope in the Pivot than an 8.5 mm rope in the ATC.

You’re not wrong, but if those were my ropes I’d have two different devices. 

I genuinely don’t understand why so many people report so many bad things about the giga jul. mega jul I get, but I love my giga. It’s like a grigri and an atc in one, which is what I used to bring up multis. Now I save over a half a pound off my harness, still have assisted lead belay (which I think is sketch to not have), nice guide mode, and can rap with two strands without a prusik. It’s ideal. You just need to find the right carabiner for the assisted breaking that works well with your rope.

^ also for whatever it’s worth I’ve found the BD Vaporlock locks up perfectly with my 9.8 single. The recommended Edelrid strike locker works well with my skinnier ropes.