New climbing shoes for wide toes and small heel.

I think it was just the link you posted had a bunch of weird referral stuff attached to it.

And for the OP - I think you posted a similar question on Reddit. Almost all of the shoes above have quite a soft rubber and will blow through at the toe if you're not careful with footwork. In terms of durability the new Trax SAS is supposed to be slightly more durable than other rubbers, but everyone has different opinions on these things. If you want a split soled shoe with a harder rubber the Instinct VS or Vapor V are both good options.

Thats why i am loocking for a shoe that is a little more durable than the flagship like the skwama, evolve shaman or mad rock black drone or the veloce which should be a soft beginner intermediat shoe.

I don’t know what you mean with durable, but soft rubber (xs grip) wears faster than stiff rubber ( edge)

Yan ik wrote:

Thats why i am loocking for a shoe that is a little more durable than the flagship like the skwama, evolve shaman or mad rock black drone or the veloce which should be a soft beginner intermediat shoe.

Shoes with softer rubber: Veloce, Skwama, Flagship, Drago. These will likely not be that durable.

Shoes with medium-ish rubber: Evolv Shaman, Mad Rock Drone 2.0. These should be a bit more durable than the above.

Shoes with harder rubber: Instinct, Instinct VS, Vapor V. These use a firmer rubber and will likely be the most durable for indoor use.

Hope that helps!

Scarpa instinct for wide toe/small heel +1

I really liked the Ocun Ozone HV (or Plus, the older version) for my wide-toe, small heel foot shape, because they also accommodate my morton's toe (2nd, and in my case 3rd, toes that are longer than my 1st). Some other models (like the instinct) painfully taper down so if your toes are fairly flat across you may have problems. Other options to try: Scarpa Mago, LS Otaki, Mad Rock Remora.

Thanks i will try them all on that should be more durable and hope i find the perfect fit.

What is the difference between dhe madrock drone and drone 2.0.

sadly i cant find the drone 2.0 in any store in germany.

Yan ik wrote:

Thanks i will try them all on that should be more durable and hope i find the perfect fit.

What is the difference between dhe madrock drone and drone 2.0.

sadly i cant find the drone 2.0 in any store in germany.

The Drone 2.0 just released and uses a 3D molded toebox and sole. This is a totally different style of construction to most climbing shoes and may or may not be more durable in the long-term.

MattH wrote:

I really liked the Ocun Ozone HV (or Plus, the older version) for my wide-toe, small heel foot shape, because they also accommodate my morton's toe (2nd, and in my case 3rd, toes that are longer than my 1st). Some other models (like the instinct) painfully taper down so if your toes are fairly flat across you may have problems. Other options to try: Scarpa Mago, LS Otaki, Mad Rock Remora.

Have you had a chance to try the Ocun Ozone LV as well, and how much did you downsize your HV? I have duck feet, and am torn between the HV and LV models D:

I have the same issue as OP - wide forefoot and narrow heel.  There are some great suggestions on here but I'm struggling to find any of them in any shops, so I might have a lengthy process of online ordering and returns ahead.  :-(

I have an additional requirement, which is that my foot shape is Egyptian - any ideas which of the suggested models would work please?

MattH wrote:

I really liked the Ocun Ozone HV (or Plus, the older version) for my wide-toe, small heel foot shape, because they also accommodate my morton's toe (2nd, and in my case 3rd, toes that are longer than my 1st). Some other models (like the instinct) painfully taper down so if your toes are fairly flat across you may have problems. Other options to try: Scarpa Mago, LS Otaki, Mad Rock Remora.

@MattH, is there any fit difference between the Plus and the HV, in your experience?

Your longer second toe is described on t'internet as Greek toe shape.  I have Egyptian, which is toe ends in a straight diagonal line going from big toe (longest) to little toe (shortest).  I've had my eye on the Ozone HVs to order / try (not in any local shops), but now I'm not sure if they'll work for me.  :-(

When you say "painfully taper down", do you mean that the "roof" of the shoe tapers from top to bottom at the front of the toes?  I think that's what you mean, but I just wanted to clarify.  My main problem is that my big toe gets crushed much more than my other toes - it is so painful that I can't stand on it on holds, and it looks like it's been stamped on when I take my shoes off!  I've never found a shoe that's wide enough for my foot where that doesn't happen.  The tapering down thing might actually be ok for me, as what I need (as well as a wider forefoot) is a bit more length in the big toe area (Egyptian toe shape) and a bit more height specifically over the big toe knuckle.

I didn’t notice much of a fit difference between the two ocun models except that the newer HV is smaller than the plus at the same numeric size. Id try those and the instincts (which would be my best bet since they crush my middle toes haha). Miura VS might work too idk my foot is the opposite shape so I’m optimizing for the opposite toe profile lol. If you want something soft I remember the LS python fitting pretty well but having way too much big toe room for me so maybe try those?

Raine wrote:

I have the same issue as OP - wide forefoot and narrow heel.  There are some great suggestions on here but I'm struggling to find any of them in any shops, so I might have a lengthy process of online ordering and returns ahead.  :-(

I have an additional requirement, which is that my foot shape is Egyptian - any ideas which of the suggested models would work please?

Ah I have a similar footshape. Have you looked at the Skwama and/or Zenist? Also hear good things about the new SoIll Stay and Street. Designed by the guy that did the old Butora stuff with input from Fred Nicole.

These are all great suggestions folks - thanks so much.

I think I will measure my foot and email each of your suggested manufacturers and ask them to recommend which shoe and size from their range would work for me.  Then if it matches the suggestions in this thread, that will be my starting point for ordering.

It is annoying that shops stock such limited ranges - this will be a lengthy process I think, but I'm fed up with not being able to climb as much as I'd like because my shoes are too painful, so I must get it sorted!!  :-(   

Hello,

its me again xD

I have 2 questions, 

how durable are the LaSportiva Mantra? Someone on reddit said, the last longer then their dragos.

Than i could get a Mad Rock Remora for 70€, so i thought i could buy 2 of them and wear theme down and got 2 pairs instead of on pair of instincts or mantras.

What do you guys think about this, and what size would it be?

I think you are describing clown shoes.  

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

I think you are describing clown shoes.  

What do you mean?

I am asking for help and you wrote something like that :(

Yan ik wrote:

What do you mean?

I am asking for help and you wrote something like that :(

Narrow heel wide toes right?  Also perfect of off width climbing.  Admittedly you will have to have them resoled with your favorite rubber.

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

Narrow heel wide toes right?  Also perfect of off width climbing.  Admittedly you will have to have them resoled with your favorite rubber.

I still dont know what you mean?

Can you please explain it?

Yan ik wrote:

I still dont know what you mean?

Can you please explain it?

Dear Yan,

This crazy American humor is sometimes lost on non-native English speakers. Please forgive Kevin.