New climbing shoes for wide toes and small heel.

Hello,

another one of these questions XD

I am bouldering for a little bit more than a year and i am at FB 6b - 6c i would say in my gym and at top rope climbing i am at 6 - 6+.

Now the problem i have with shoes is i have a small heel and slip easy out of them. If i get theme smaller, my toes start to overlap with each other like the big toe stand on the other one and i guess this is not right?

I want my shoes small but the toes are in the way kind of.

The tenaya indalo in UK 5 1/2 theye fit from the heel, almost, a little i slip out of them but my toes are again stacked on each other.

Than with flagship unparallel in uk 8, the heel is a lot better but the same thin with sizing down?

Maybe something simillar to them?

I also think the unparallel is not durable enough for me xD

Which shoes would you suggest?

You could try a leather shoe. My feet are pretty wide and I like La Sportivas because they stretch somewhat to conform to my foot. 

Okay, thanks which one?
If they strecht is there not going to be a problem with the heel also losing up?

I tried the female tarantula from my girlfriend in EU 39 and they fit pretty good, so i guess i got the wrong advice with the joker asmy foot form.

Maybe the skwama then as a new shoe?

I have pretty wide feet and I've had good success with the Scarpa Instinct.

High tops are the solution for narrow heels

May I suggest the Scarpa Vapor. Wide toebox (wide enough for me at least) and the heels seem fairly snug. They're a good all around shoe depending on how tight you size them.

This type of question tends to elicit very anecdotal responses.
For a more structured approach, you can start with a chart like this, and try on a few of the wider models in a store.

Sportiva has a similar chart: https://www.lasportiva.com/media/size_chart/chart_ClimbingShoes.jpg

I will try the skwama, evolv shaman and scarpa veloce and maybe some tenaya but from that i dont know which one

The Scarpa Veloces (now available in a lace up version too, not just Velcro), is far and away the best climbing shoe for those with super wide toes. It's shaped very differently than all other climbing shoes (wide and square at the front, not pointy). For the better.

Okay thanks, i will try both male and female version of the veloce. 

How durable are they in comparison to skwamas or unparallel flagship?

The miura vs is what you desire, incredible heel, incredible toe box that is fairly wide.

okay thank you i will try them too

which shoe would be an alternative to the unparallel flagships?

They fit alsmost perfect for my width toes and small heel, but i dont like the quality. 

Yan ik wrote:

How durable are they in comparison to skwamas or unparallel flagship?

The rubber they come with is very soft, softer than vibram grip. So they will need to be resoled earlier than other shoes probably. You can always resole them with a harder rubber.

Alex Fischer wrote:

The rubber they come with is very soft, softer than vibram grip. So they will need to be resoled earlier than other shows probably. You can always resole them with a harder rubber.

Well now i would like the new shoes that are more durable. Thats what i am looking for. 

So maybe skwama, shaman, drago or something from tenaya?

If you have an old pair of orthotics, try putting them in there. 

If you don't, go to a drugstore and get one of those little gel heel cups. Try a small, inexpensive pair first.  

Examples on Amazon

tenesmus wrote:

If you have an old pair of orthotics, try putting them in there. 

If you don't, go to a drugstore and get one of those little gel heel cups. Try a small, inexpensive pair first.  

Examples on Amazon

Thanks but i want a pair of shoes that fit without a gel pad

tenesmus wrote:

If you have an old pair of orthotics, try putting them in there. 

If you don't, go to a drugstore and get one of those little gel heel cups. Try a small, inexpensive pair first.  

Examples on Amazon

Are you really trying to get amazon referrals  money by posting on mountain project? 

I also have a very narrow heel and a wide(ish) forefoot. I had to try on about 30 pairs of shoes before I found a pair I could do aggressive heel hooks while also fitting the forefoot.

The answer for me is the Butora Gomi narrow. Incredible bouldering shoes.

Anecdotally, the 3 pairs of shoes I’ve found that fit my heels the best have all been pink, so…maybe start there?

Mark Straub wrote:

I also have a very narrow heel and a wide(ish) forefoot. I had to try on about 30 pairs of shoes before I found a pair I could do aggressive heel hooks while also fitting the forefoot.

The answer for me is the Butora Gomi narrow. Incredible bouldering shoes.

Anecdotally, the 3 pairs of shoes I’ve found that fit my heels the best have all been pink, so…maybe start there?

Sadly i dont find this shoe in germany but looking for pink ones i a place to start, if skwama, drago, veloce or shaman dont fit xD

that guy named seb wrote:

Are you really trying to get amazon referrals  money by posting on mountain project? 

@ that guy named seb, that's hilarious and I give no shits about Amazon. It was just showing a bunch of ideas because you never know what might help. 

I have severe foot pain from all the years of stuffing my bag-of-bones feet into climbing shoes. I'm shocked by how much foot pain I get with climbing and the recent good luck has given me hope that I won't have to give up the sport I love. I'm a PT and like to think passing along something that helped me could help someone else.

You won't believe how much pain you'll get in your 50's. Take great care of your feet, no matter what! 

Recently had good luck with using my old orthotics placed in my larger shoes to give more support, especially for my mid-foot.

This specific person has trouble with small heels and wide forefoot. So the natural choice would be to get a wide enough shoe for the forefoot, then take heel space away via a heel cup.