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Approach to Glacier peak

Original Post
Jack Walter · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

Mulling over doing a solo of glacier peak next week and just wanted to know if anyone has advice on the route / approach. What trail head did you start at etc 

Drederek · · Olympia, WA · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 315

Probably a tr on cascadeclimbers.com

Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 2,646

We parked at the North Fork Sauk Trailhead when we did it.  Long but pleasant hike in to White Pass.  Then a bit more trail and a bunch of open cross country.  I think the route technically goes up the Suiattle Glacier to the Cool Glacier, but you can mostly just stay on the lateral moraine until just below Disappointment Peak.  Take a look on Caltopo at the "NAIP" layer for the 2013-2015 timeframe (it should default to this) for a good idea of how broken up the glacier is in later season.  It should be in better condition now then pictured in that layer.

Jack Walter · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

I’m planning on going solo, looks like you can avoid the glacier almost entirely?

Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 2,646
Jack Walter wrote:

I’m planning on going solo, looks like you can avoid the glacier almost entirely?

Yes you can avoid most of it.  I guess you could probably avoid all of it but it would be steep and not the typically route.

Richard Z · · Duvall, WA · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 0
Jack Walter wrote:

I’m planning on going solo, looks like you can avoid the glacier almost entirely?

With some googling you'll find the scramble route, which goes up and over/slightly climber's left of the summit of Disappointment Peak. Folks say it's a crumbly mess with a ton of loose rock that often falls down onto the glacier whilst traversing, but many do the scramble to avoid getting on the glacier. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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