Recommendations for assisted braking belay device for multipitch alpine rock/ice?

Currently I'm using a Reverso but want something that's assisted braking for extra security whenlead belaying. 

Anyone have recommendations on something else that can be used for rappelling with double ropes, deal with wet/icy ropes and with a range of rope diameters (7.5-10mmish), while still being an assisted braking device?

Thank

Micro jul and mega jul are the devices you seek

CT AlpineUp

Edit: I posted this at 3 AM for some reason but want to follow up with my justifications. Having used both, I ended up selling my Giga Jul after finding no meaningful advantages to it over the AlpineUp. For lead belays, the AlpineUp feeds and takes in slack much more smoothly and consistently than the GigaJul, with much less sensitivity to rope diameter and degree of wear. Guide mode is also smoother than the Jul, though a little bit more challenging to set up. Rappelling on the AlpineUp is a joy, and the auto locking feature does not need a third hand backup.

My complaints about the AlpineUp are that it can be laborious to use with some ropes (per my experience: really fuzzy) when belaying from above or top rope in auto locking mode, though it is easy and safe to use in its friction-only dynamic mode. It also cannot be put onto and removed from a rope or ropes while remaining attached to its carabiner, creating a dropping risk. I’m sure that this can be mitigated with accessory cord, but I haven’t put any effort into figuring out how. If you have, please post pics!

I recommend the alpine up.  If you decide that the alpine up it too big for you to carry them the giga jul is a distant second place device. 

CT Alpine Up. I use it with Beal Icelines 8.1mm and it works as desired to belay. I've tried it with a ~9.5mm single and it worked terribly and I had to switch it to dynamic mode (no ABD). I also struggle to rappel in ABD mode on my 8.1s so I tend to use dynamic mode with a prussic.

I love my CT Alpine Up.  

I use it for pretty much everything multi-pitch these days.  

Use it with skinny twin ropes, skinny single rope, fat single rope, and never had an issue.   Paying out slack, guide mode, and rappelling are smooth.  

Make sure that you use it with the CT "Concept" carabiner.  Doesn't work well with other types.  Concept biners are available in a number of variants.  Any of them will work.  I bought a few Concept lockers to use in constructing my anchors/master point, so if I were to drop my dedicated belay biner, I've got a backup.  

Have you tried bringing both a tuber and a grigri-type device on a long multi (tuber for raps, grigri for belaying)? I used to think it wasn't worth the weight, but it only took a single route with that setup before I was sold. Just because you _can_ use the reverso/mega jul/alpine-up to top belay doesn't mean they're the best tool for the job. Using a grigri/lifeguard/trax (caveat emptor) is so, so much easier on your body - my arms are less sore after 6-7 top-belayed pitches with the lifeguard than 2-3 with the GIGI or DMM Pivot I used to use.

Those mega jul/alpine up devices also suck for rappelling.

MattH wrote:

Have you tried bringing both a tuber and a grigri-type device on a long multi (tuber for raps, grigri for belaying)? I used to think it wasn't worth the weight, but it only took a single route with that setup before I was sold. Just because you _can_ use the reverso/mega jul/alpine-up to top belay doesn't mean they're the best tool for the job. Using a grigri/lifeguard/trax (caveat emptor) is so, so much easier on your body - my arms are less sore after 6-7 top-belayed pitches with the lifeguard than 2-3 with the GIGI or DMM Pivot I used to use.

Those mega jul/alpine up devices also suck for rappelling.

+1 here. I would bring my Pivot only for a while on any multipitch but having the GriGri for belaying both leaders and off the anchor is quite nice, easy, and has the built-in advantage of having two devices (dropped my ATC device once...). Sure, it's more weight, but if that's what holds me back, I can make other changes before dropping the weight of a grigri. 

I will say, I do much prefer rapping on an ATC to a GriGri, so I do like having both. Only scenario where this two-device solution wouldn't work is if you were climbing with halves or twins. But yeah, hard agree that it's worth it to me to have both. 

I'm very content with my Mammut Smart Alpine but it seems to be discontinued. 

The alpine up is a superior device in use to the mega jul, but when OP said “alpine” i thought long hikes, maybe with a 60L pack. In those cases I am counting ounces and the mega jul wins for me.

MattH wrote:

Have you tried bringing both a tuber and a grigri-type device on a long multi (tuber for raps, grigri for belaying)? I used to think it wasn't worth the weight, but it only took a single route with that setup before I was sold. Just because you _can_ use the reverso/mega jul/alpine-up to top belay doesn't mean they're the best tool for the job. Using a grigri/lifeguard/trax (caveat emptor) is so, so much easier on your body - my arms are less sore after 6-7 top-belayed pitches with the lifeguard than 2-3 with the GIGI or DMM Pivot I used to use.

Those mega jul/alpine up devices also suck for rappelling.

Alpine up is great for rappelling, particularly for multi-pitch rappels where you're the first one off.  You can go hands-free very easily and use both hands to untangle ropes, etc. without having to use a "third hand" prussik.  

As for top belaying in guide mode, the only device I find superior to the Alpine Up is the Kong GiGi, but it has pretty limited use, while the Alpine Up is a single device that does everything well.  

Kai Larson wrote:

Alpine up is great for rappelling, particularly for multi-pitch rappels where you're the first one off.  You can go hands-free very easily and use both hands to untangle ropes, etc. without having to use a "third hand" prussik.  

As for top belaying in guide mode, the only device I find superior to the Alpine Up is the Kong GiGi, but it has pretty limited use, while the Alpine Up is a single device that does everything well.  

I was going to write basically the same.  There is a little trick to getting the alpine up the to rappel nicely; twist your body a little towards the brake hand. 

Use a grigri and bring a tube device. There is a lot of writing out there by people who really are experts and they almost universally choose a single rope when they're not climbing as a trio. If on fairly moderate terrain it also allows you to use a microtrax for even easier guide mode belaying.