Edelweiss Flashlight II rope. Terrible durability. Dangerous? See pic

Yesterday I was climbing at my friend’s gym and needed to take a lead test. Part of the test is to take a lead fall. I took about an 8-10 ft. fall, then was lowered and to my horror saw my rope in this condition.

I don’t know the year of manufacture but I bought this rope new in Feb 2023. I have only climbed with it in the gym. In that time it has taken about 20 falls generally in the 6-10 ft range.

It seems like this is not an isolated incident with this model of Edelweiss. The strands of the core were all intact but the sheath “snapped.” Here’s another thread about this type of thing happening with the Edelweiss Flashlight II.
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/108450487/edelweiss-flashlight-ii-10mm-ropeany-issues-with-yours

Be safe!

I bought an edelweiss rope years ago.  It was the worst rope I have owned in 40+ years of climbing.  I will never buy another rope from them. 

D B wrote:

Yesterday I was climbing at my friend’s gym and needed to take a lead test. Part of the test is to take a lead fall. I took about an 8-10 ft. fall, then was lowered and to my horror saw my rope in this condition.

I don’t know the year of manufacture but I bought this rope new in Feb 2023. I have only climbed with it in the gym. In that time it has taken about 20 falls generally in the 6-10 ft range.

It seems like this is not an isolated incident with this model of Edelweiss. The strands of the core were all intact but the sheath “snapped.” Here’s another thread about this type of thing happening with the Edelweiss Flashlight II.
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/108450487/edelweiss-flashlight-ii-10mm-ropeany-issues-with-yours

Be safe!

Only 20 falls?  Is it possible that you are underestimating or leaving out falls while partners are leading on it?  Not that it should matter until you get into the 100s for moderate leader falls...

Did you pass your lead test?  

i heard gyms replace their draws regularly...

might inspect that route or the routes you and others have been whipping on. 

Edelweiss ropes are weird but a failure at the reported quantity of gym falls likely was caused by something initially unnoticed.

I have found the durability of the Flashlight II to be poor. However that kind of damage is pretty extreme for anything other than a sharp edge issue. I would not discount the possibility of your rope being damaged by a biner or belay device with a sharp burr. 

Lion Forest wrote:

Only 20 falls?  Is it possible that you are underestimating or leaving out falls while partners are leading on it?  Not that it should matter until you get into the 100s for moderate leader falls...

Yes, without a doubt. It’s actually probably closer to 10 falls. I rarely fall because I don’t like it and don’t push myself too hard but that’s a whole different issue.

Kai Larson wrote:

Did you pass your lead test?  

Just barely! ;-)

I've heard terrible things about their ropes, but on the other hand their 5-7mm cord is really nice. 

How was it stored?

climber pat wrote:

I bought an edelweiss rope years ago.  It was the worst rope I have owned in 40+ years of climbing.  I will never buy another rope from them. 

Same here.

D B wrote:

Yesterday I was climbing at my friend’s gym and needed to take a lead test. Part of the test is to take a lead fall. I took about an 8-10 ft. fall, then was lowered and to my horror saw my rope in this condition.

I don’t know the year of manufacture but I bought this rope new in Feb 2023. I have only climbed with it in the gym. In that time it has taken about 20 falls generally in the 6-10 ft range.

It seems like this is not an isolated incident with this model of Edelweiss. The strands of the core were all intact but the sheath “snapped.” Here’s another thread about this type of thing happening with the Edelweiss Flashlight II.
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/108450487/edelweiss-flashlight-ii-10mm-ropeany-issues-with-yours

Be safe!

That’s from a sharp biner not necessarily just a crappy rope.

J Lee wrote:

How was it stored?

In a rope bag in my closet. 

Tradiban wrote:

That’s from a sharp biner not necessarily just a crappy rope.

Possibly, but I don’t think so because when I’ve seen that before, the sheath is not “snapped” all the way around but more like a tear where the tear doesn’t go all the way around.

This looked like a clean snap all the way around the sheath. My friend had just fallen on it a few minutes prior on the same spot. Since we didn’t flip the rope and it may not have recovered its dynamic qualities, I think this may have been the cause. I don’t think this is a good reason though because people take multiple falls on the same spot of the rope in succession without issue all the time.

Who knows? 

D B wrote:

Possibly, but I don’t think so because when I’ve seen that before, the sheath is not “snapped” all the way around but more like a tear where the tear doesn’t go all the way around.

This looked like a clean snap all the way around the sheath. My friend had just fallen on it a few minutes prior on the same spot. Since we didn’t flip the rope and it may not have recovered its dynamic qualities, I think this may have been the cause. I don’t think this is a good reason though because people take multiple falls on the same spot of the rope in succession without issue all the time.

Who knows? 

Sounds like you have already made up your mind.

Tradiban wrote:

Sounds like you have already made up your mind.

Nah, that’s why I closed with “who knows?” It does sound like you’ve made up yours though. Doesn’t matter either way. 

D B wrote:

Nah, that’s why I closed with “who knows?” It does sound like you’ve made up yours though. Doesn’t matter either way. 

I know.

I'm willing to be that if you look at the draw you fell on that biner will have a groove from rope wear. I think they gym is liable here and they probably owe your a new rope.

Tradiban wrote:

I know.

Agreed

Matthew Bell wrote:

I'm willing to be that if you look at the draw you fell on that biner will have a groove from rope wear. I think they gym is liable here and they probably owe your a new rope.

I went back an climb the same route on TR to feel the carabiner in question. No nicks, burrs or imperfections. 

contact the manufacturer and send the rope back. They can test the undamaged section and look for any issues (materials, manufacturing etc).