Replacing Evolv Adjust cord with Petzl Pur Line 6mm

What are your thoughts on jugging with this and tethering both into anchors?

Seems super light and glides beautifully in the evolv mechanism.

Thanks for any and all help!

I've been using Edelrid 8.2mm Starling Protect. Half/twin rope w/ aramid for cut resistance. Makes me feel pretty good. Very supple.

I'm sure Petzl wouldn't be happy about it though.

A knot that doesn’t slip breaks at 50% of the 15kN break strength.  A spliced eye can retain about 98% of the break strength.  I’ve made up a friction hitch cord to see how it wears.

The smaller diameter might slip slight each time it is unloaded and load numerous times.

Brocky wrote:

A knot that doesn’t slip breaks at 50% of the 15kN break strength.  A spliced eye can retain about 98% of the break strength.  I’ve made up a friction hitch cord to see how it wears.

The smaller diameter might slip slight each time it is unloaded and load numerous times.

What hitch is that? Looks interesting 

I've seen it be used by quite a few top level climbers so it definitely works. I'd imagine falling on it would be okay as it would just slip but I'd want to see testing on that. 

Brocky wrote:

A knot that doesn’t slip breaks at 50% of the 15kN break strength.  A spliced eye can retain about 98% of the break strength.  I’ve made up a friction hitch cord to see how it wears.

The smaller diameter might slip slight each time it is unloaded and load numerous times.

Maybe it's me, but I don't see how this addresses OP's question.

Desert Rock Sports wrote:

I've been using Edelrid 8.2mm Starling Protect. Half/twin rope w/ aramid for cut resistance. Makes me feel pretty good. Very supple.

I'm sure Petzl wouldn't be happy about it though.

Still got lengths of that you'd be willing to sell?

Pur line is feeling quite slippery. Desert Rock Sports, I’d like a length of the edelrid stuff if you have extra. 

What is the name of that hitch please??

The Sticht Hitch, it first used a rap ring, but now can also be tied with just a piece of cord.  The slack can be tended by just pulling out on the rope below it, and it doesn’t bind, to the point that it easily releases on a single line, with full control.

This is what OP asked about. Used instead of daisies for aid climbing, or as OP mentioned, for tethering to the anchor.

One of the most appealing aspects of making adjustable daisies like these using single ropes is that you have a super strong, dynamic connection. I talked to a guy last year who took an aid fall on such a rig on El Cap last year and he said it felt like a sport fall. Now, I'm mostly interested in trying to not take falls onto my daisies, but being able to comfortable be in a sketchy situation above my anchor that I'm tethered into or knowing that taking an aid fall on my daisy for some weird traversing aid move won't hurt is really nice. 

Kevin DeWeese has found that the Camp Swing which is the same but from Camp works better with skinny single ropes for load releasing than the Petzl does with pretty much any rope, except for the Pur I guess. I don't know what ropes he's found that work well with that off the top of my head, but they're all somewhere in the mid-ish 8s I think. Personally I would rather take the Camp Swing with the dynamic single rated rope if it works as well as the Petzl with the 6mm Pur. 

Gunkiemike wrote:

This is what OP asked about. Used instead of daisies for aid climbing, or as OP mentioned, for tethering to the anchor.

First picture was to show that PUR can be spliced to get a stronger result than knots, sorry you missed that in my first post.

Gunkiemike, you’re correct, my brain locked into how I use the Connect and wouldn’t let go until the smoke cleared, apologies to the OP.

This might be an option, I didn’t test it much.  It clips the device to the harness and spliced eyes instead of tied would be the stronger choice.The double strands fit in the Adjust with a little side friction. Uses one piece of rope, the ring keeps it from pulling through.

Brocky wrote:

First picture was to show that PUR can be spliced to get a stronger result than knots, sorry you missed that in my first post.

I'm confused.  are you suggesting you permanently attach the Adjust with a spliced eye to your harness?  Or do you clip the spliced eye to a locker on your harness?  Is there some other option that I'm missing to attach an Adjust to your harness without a knot?

AND why are their two threads about this topic??

Just jugged some with the pur line as tether. It works and didn’t slip for me, though 6mm spaghetti is not confidence inspiring on a wall. Mikey’s right. I thought the specificity of the pur tether warranted it’s own thread, but yeah could have thrown it in the other one :) 

Mikey Schaefer wrote:

I'm confused.  are you suggesting you permanently attach the Adjust with a spliced eye to your harness?  Or do you clip the spliced eye to a locker on your harness?  Is there some other option that I'm missing to attach an Adjust to your harness without a knot?

AND why are their two threads about this topic??

I use it like my last picture with a single strand of cord, only bigger, around 7mm. The device is clipped to the harness, the other end has the spliced eye for a carabiner to clip to the anchor.

We have a "spool" of the 8.2 Starling Protect Pro Dry, blue, $1.50/ft. Technically its as a consignment item, not something we normally would carry. I (young Travis, not manager Travis) put it in. Bought 70m for myself, cut off what I wanted for my own use, wound the rest up onto an empty spool. There should be around 87ft left. We get a fair amount of requests for dynamic rope by the foot, mostly for rope access lanyards, which would be thicker, like 9 to 11mm, and I have been trying to convince my boss to provide stuff to fit that niche on a spool, either ordering a full spool, or some 60 or 70m ropes we can just spool up ourselves to sell... but I have been trying to convince him for like 4 years now, unsuccessfully.

We only rarely ship things. We are kinda an old-school shop and definitely suck in that department. If there is that much interest I may take it off consignment and ship it myself, but its super hot here right now so I'm understandably feeling lazy and would prefer not to. Easier to just pick some up if your passing through Vegas. If there continues to be interest I'll look into continuing to buy and spool up more to keep it available, or otherwise setting lengths aside on reservation for people to pick up whenever they roll through.

5-6ft of the 8.2 with being tied in with a retraced overhand, and a regular stopper knot seems to be a good length for me, but YMMV. If you want fig 8 and stopper with slightly more tail may want to get a bit longer like 7ft. I don't know. I sent this pic to someone a while back, but can't remember what length of the rope from tail of stopper to the taped mark, probably 5ft. Knots eat up length.

Here is a vid of extending, not much, but its something:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/VWKVqOWSCbU

8.2 Protect Pro Dry is quite a bit thinner and more supple than the stock cord. 8.9 Protect Pro Dry should behave pretty close to the original petzl cord. It feels slightly thinner, but about the same suppleness. Note that the Evolv Adjust model in particular has a notably thinner cord than the regular Connect Adjust. Its arms are also longer. If someone has that I wouldn't worry about replacing the rope with something else until it starts to no longer inspire the confidence it used to, in which case the 8.2 is probably a decent option unless you want something static.

You can get 8.9 by the foot at Extreme Gear (they also have purline, rap line, etc... search "RBF"... you could/should probably convince them to carry the 8.2 by the foot):
https://extremegear.org/products/8-9mm-swift-protect-pro-dry-rbf-edelrid?variant=44636704604444

Or 8.9 with spliced eye at Arbsession (I doubt they would want to carry something as thin as 8.2 as they are more work focused, but who knows):
https://arbsession.com/edelrid-swift-protect-pro-dry-8-9mm-night-green-base.html

I did get this, 8.9, one large eye, several feet enough to tie a stopper and have a fairly drop in replacement cord for the Petzl Connect cord, but have not tested it yet. I do have a second Petzl Connect, but I reserve it for guided client use (or for my use when I have to recert AMGA SPI) so I wont be modifying it. Arbsession is a great company, so you should be able to just send in the orange adjuster and have them sew a replacement rope to your requested specs with the sewn girth hitch loop and sewn stopper. Perhaps send some reference photos of how you want it to be configured.
https://arbsession.com/arbsession-used-rope-sewn-splice-1.html

Emailing with them they said that their machines regularly sew down to 6mm. If you have some weird cord or rope you want sewn splices, its best if you send them 10-12ft extra its best so they can do some sew pattern and break tests. ( I was chatting with them about possibilities of sewn connections on some weird stuff like Paraloc Piranha and other sailing cords for cordelette mostly )

Eventually I will get around to getting sewn eyes on my 8.2, but probably not until after the current one wears out, which could take a long time.

A friend uses the Sterling 5.9mm power cord, ie technora core, in their connect setup. Super static, cut resistance. Another was using 6mm regular accessory cord, but just switched to the 8.2 since the 6mm gets pretty ragged pretty quick. Even that thin is very difficult to release under load. If releasing under load is a priority, you need to be looking at something other than the connect adjust hardware is the take away from what I have gathered.

The friction hitch setups typically look really weird and bulky, but it should be possible to get them pretty minimal on the harness, and they can indeed release under load... plus you probably don't need to buy anything to make one. You probably already have all you need in your regular climbing kit. Just a section of rope, a cord for the friction hitch, a rap ring or quicklink. There are setups like Brocky posted, and also setups where you just have a friction hitch tended with a quicklink, so you can pull, the quicklink buts up against the friction hitch to disengage it, let go and the friction hitch grabs again. Lengthen by pushing the friction hitch down. This way you have the dynamic rope and whatever slippage the friction hitch gives should you take a real fall on it, like a fool.

Any of these adjustable dynamic things... its great to have some dynamic rope in the system, but don't fucking put yourself in a position to fall on them for fucks sake. The point of the dynamic is like you clipped in, there is slight slack in the cord and your foot slips so it isn't as abrupt a stop as a static lanyard. That's all.

And obviously Petzl would not approve of any of this.
Read their tech notices for the Connect Adjust and Evolv Adjust, at a minimum.
FF1 is caution, higher is a big no-no, personally I would do my best to avoid anything higher than like FF0.25

Desert Rock Sports wrote:

We have a "spool" of the 8.2 Starling Protect Pro Dry, blue, $1.50/ft. Technically its as a consignment item, not something we normally would carry. I (young Travis, not manager Travis) put it in. Bought 70m for myself, cut off what I wanted for my own use, wound the rest up onto an empty spool. There should be around 87ft left. We get a fair amount of requests for dynamic rope by the foot, mostly for rope access lanyards, which would be thicker, like 9 to 11mm, and I have been trying to convince my boss to provide stuff to fit that niche on a spool, either ordering a full spool, or some 60 or 70m ropes we can just spool up ourselves to sell... but I have been trying to convince him for like 4 years now, unsuccessfully.

We only rarely ship things. We are kinda an old-school shop and definitely suck in that department. If there is that much interest I may take it off consignment and ship it myself, but its super hot here right now so I'm understandably feeling lazy and would prefer not to. Easier to just pick some up if your passing through Vegas. If there continues to be interest I'll look into continuing to buy and spool up more to keep it available, or otherwise setting lengths aside on reservation for people to pick up whenever they roll through.

5-6ft of the 8.2 with being tied in with a retraced overhand, and a regular stopper knot seems to be a good length for me, but YMMV. If you want fig 8 and stopper with slightly more tail may want to get a bit longer like 7ft. I don't know. I sent this pic to someone a while back, but can't remember what length of the rope from tail of stopper to the taped mark, probably 5ft. Knots eat up length.

Here is a vid of extending, not much, but its something:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/VWKVqOWSCbU

8.2 Protect Pro Dry is quite a bit thinner and more supple than the stock cord. 8.9 Protect Pro Dry should behave pretty close to the original petzl cord. It feels slightly thinner, but about the same suppleness. Note that the Evolv Adjust model in particular has a notably thinner cord than the regular Connect Adjust. Its arms are also longer. If someone has that I wouldn't worry about replacing the rope with something else until it starts to no longer inspire the confidence it used to, in which case the 8.2 is probably a decent option unless you want something static.

You can get 8.9 by the foot at Extreme Gear (they also have purline, rap line, etc... search "RBF"... you could/should probably convince them to carry the 8.2 by the foot):
https://extremegear.org/products/8-9mm-swift-protect-pro-dry-rbf-edelrid?variant=44636704604444

Or 8.9 with spliced eye at Arbsession (I doubt they would want to carry something as thin as 8.2 as they are more work focused, but who knows):
https://arbsession.com/edelrid-swift-protect-pro-dry-8-9mm-night-green-base.html

I did get this, 8.9, one large eye, several feet enough to tie a stopper and have a fairly drop in replacement cord for the Petzl Connect cord, but have not tested it yet. I do have a second Petzl Connect, but I reserve it for guided client use (or for my use when I have to recert AMGA SPI) so I wont be modifying it. Arbsession is a great company, so you should be able to just send in the orange adjuster and have them sew a replacement rope to your requested specs with the sewn girth hitch loop and sewn stopper. Perhaps send some reference photos of how you want it to be configured.
https://arbsession.com/arbsession-used-rope-sewn-splice-1.html

Emailing with them they said that their machines regularly sew down to 6mm. If you have some weird cord or rope you want sewn splices, its best if you send them 10-12ft extra its best so they can do some sew pattern and break tests. ( I was chatting with them about possibilities of sewn connections on some weird stuff like Paraloc Piranha and other sailing cords for cordelette mostly )

Eventually I will get around to getting sewn eyes on my 8.2, but probably not until after the current one wears out, which could take a long time.

A friend uses the Sterling 5.9mm power cord, ie technora core, in their connect setup. Super static, cut resistance. Another was using 6mm regular accessory cord, but just switched to the 8.2 since the 6mm gets pretty ragged pretty quick. Even that thin is very difficult to release under load. If releasing under load is a priority, you need to be looking at something other than the connect adjust hardware is the take away from what I have gathered.

The friction hitch setups typically look really weird and bulky, but it should be possible to get them pretty minimal on the harness, and they can indeed release under load... plus you probably don't need to buy anything to make one. You probably already have all you need in your regular climbing kit. Just a section of rope, a cord for the friction hitch, a rap ring or quicklink. There are setups like Brocky posted, and also setups where you just have a friction hitch tended with a quicklink, so you can pull, the quicklink buts up against the friction hitch to disengage it, let go and the friction hitch grabs again. Lengthen by pushing the friction hitch down. This way you have the dynamic rope and whatever slippage the friction hitch gives should you take a real fall on it, like a fool.

Any of these adjustable dynamic things... its great to have some dynamic rope in the system, but don't fucking put yourself in a position to fall on them for fucks sake. The point of the dynamic is like you clipped in, there is slight slack in the cord and your foot slips so it isn't as abrupt a stop as a static lanyard. That's all.

And obviously Petzl would not approve of any of this.
Read their tech notices for the Connect Adjust and Evolv Adjust, at a minimum.
FF1 is caution, higher is a big no-no, personally I would do my best to avoid anything higher than like FF0.25

The 8.9mm Protect Edelrid rope works horribly in my Camp Swing, don't know if it would be the same in the Petzl Adjust. I hypothesize this is due to the very rough sheath.

Really great timing on the part of HowNot2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWaDh6-roMI