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Best summer/shady sport crags on the Front Range

Original Post
K Dub · · Out West · Joined May 2018 · Points: 144

I'm in Denver for a week and unfortunately don't have my great CCC guidebook. Looking for sport crags with good 5.11+ and 12- climbing.

I found this previous thread, mentioning the following:

  • Anarchy - shade till 1pm and after 4pm but sun has already baked the holds.
  • River wall/sonic youth/twitch
  • Wall of justice
  • Wall of 90's - same aspect as Anarchy
  • Primo - shade after 3pm
  • Mission Wall.

Anything else? I don't know areas outside of Clear Creek as well but happy to drive a little bit. We've been to Staunton once which was really fun. I think the Dungeon gets shade most of the day.

K Dub · · Out West · Joined May 2018 · Points: 144
K Dub wrote:
  • Wall of 90's - shade till 1pm and after 4pm but sun has already baked the holds.

More accurate is Wall of the 90s is in the shade until about 2:00-2:30 or so. Then goes back in around 6:15 pm (right side anyway).

Troy M · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 25

The Dungeon and Tan Corridor at Staunton do stay in the shade all morning. I was there until 2pm a few days ago and don't remember any direct sun on the rock. Just an extra data point is that it was quite crowded midweek so I'd avoid at all cost on the weekend.

Easter Rock in Boulder Canyon is north-facing and I don't think ever gets sun. I went there on an 80deg and sunny day and was wishing I had brought a puffy. Not sure if it is always a thing, but a consistent 15mph crosswind was blowing and I was shivering all day.

Cheiftan Mews · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0
Troy M wrote:

Easter Rock in Boulder Canyon is north-facing and I don't think ever gets sun. I went there on an 80deg and sunny day and was wishing I had brought a puffy. Not sure if it is always a thing, but a consistent 15mph crosswind was blowing and I was shivering all day.

The crosswind at Easter is relentless. I've been there on a 90+ degree day and had to keep walking to the front of the formation to warm up in the sun. I've had the same thing happen at Bell.

K Dub · · Out West · Joined May 2018 · Points: 144

Easter Rock is a great rec. Thanks. Looks like some good stuff there. I guess you have to pick your poison. Sun or wind. Never been to Boulder Canyon before.

Stonebhikku · · boulder, co · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 221

To be honest most crags on the south side of the road in bocan get great shade in the summer. They are all mostly north facing.  
go to : https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105744222/boulder-canyon and find the mileages/crags portion of the page about halfway down, and start checking out the “South” side crags. You can also just do a MP search for the grade range you’re looking for and see if they fall on that side. 

Leo Wu · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0
K Dub wrote:

Easter Rock is a great rec. Thanks. Looks like some good stuff there. I guess you have to pick your poison. Sun or wind. Never been to Boulder Canyon before.

Wind at Easter Rock is not constant. I don't think it is particular windy or anything.  

Dinosaur Rock at Flat Iron stays in the shade until maybe like 4PM this time of the year. 

Left side of Wall of 90's is called Monkey house, also stays in the shade until maybe 2PM similar to Wall of 90's. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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