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Bad footwork, bad resole, and/or tired shoes?

Original Post
P B · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 62

Recently got back the Miura and Miura VS from the resoler and I broke through the toe already. They each have only 10-20 pitches of sport climbing on them and it's the first time resoling each pair. I've never worn through a toe this fast even on a resole, so I'm wondering has my footwork completely gone to shit or is there a quality issue with the resole?

Desert Rock Sports · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 2

I can't really tell from the photos, did you pay for rand repair?

If not, and the rand was thin when you sent them in... that's what happens.

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,028

This happened with my TC Pros recently also. The rand had not been replaced and it was too thin which resulted in a hole in the toe before the sole wore out. They are off getting resoled again.

Victor Creazzi · · Lafayette CO · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0

My take on resoling.

If you look at brand new shoes you can see grind marks in the rand where the sole was ground down to be flush. Each time the shoe is resoled this has to happen again. While the cobbler will try to to minimize  this wear, there is a 'rand cost' to resoling that can't be completely eliminated. The rand needs to be ground slightly to get to fresh rubber for bonding and then slightly more when the sole is made flush. This wear is in addition to the rand wear from climbing in the shoe. The cobbler makes a judgement call when cleaning up the rand prior to gluing as to whether the rand is thick enough to avoid toe caps. Personally I prefer that the cobbler leans toward trying to avoid toe caps. 

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,028

Victor,

Can you share why you prefer they avoid toe caps? 

Jan M · · Germany · Joined May 2023 · Points: 0
Anna Brown wrote:

Can you share why you prefer they avoid toe caps? 

If the cobbler isn‘t using the same last the manufacturer used, toe caps or replacing the entire rubber rand can change the fit r sensitivity of the shoe. Plus it is more expensive.
I try to avoid having the rubber rand repaired for two or even theee resoles

There are some cobblers doing a very great job with complete rubber rand repairs if they have access to the original last. On the other side, some are just removing some of the old rubber and sticking anew rubber of poor quality on top of it:

Victor Creazzi · · Lafayette CO · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0
Anna Brown wrote:

Victor,

Can you share why you prefer they avoid toe caps? 

Mostly fear about changing the fit and feel of the shoe. I suppose with the exact last this fear may be unwarranted, but do resolers really have a last for every model of shoe in every size?

P B · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 62
rock climbing wrote:

Those look pretty worn out for 10 pitches. Who did the resole? Toe caps? You should ask them what they think.

Everybody complains about toe caps but there is a reason why cobbles insist on doing rands. Everyone I know don’t even like doing them.

Hey Victor. Rands can be cleaned without any grinding. It is just easier and faster to grind them. Rock and resole is one of the worst out there at making the rands disappear. It is one of the reasons why their resoles delaminate.

Rock and resole job, but no toe caps I believe. Who do you recommend?

Victor Creazzi · · Lafayette CO · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0
rock climbing wrote:

Hey Victor. Rands can be cleaned without any grinding. It is just easier and faster to grind them.

Thanks for the input. Do you have details on the technique (chemical)? That still leaves the rand wear when grinding the sole to flush which is admittedly a function of skill and care, but like I said this wear is often evident on brand new shoes from the  manufacturer.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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