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what's the best climb in Chamonix if I only get to do 1-2?

Original Post
Sergey Shelukhin · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 14

My wife is injured so we'll be hiking / etc. most of our trip; I was planning to do 1, maybe 2 days of climbing with someone local or with a guide.

I can get up about 7a, maybe harder for pure sport climbing, 6a-a+ or so on granite (cracks, slab on gear)... open to A0 or aid a short section. With regard to style, really exposed, sporty, well protected climbing is my favorite, any grade. I really liked Delagokante on Vajolet tower in the Dolomites, or e.g. smth like this picture: mountainproject.com/assets/…; OTOH not big on chimneys, offwidth, and stuff like that. 

Oh and can I get one with glacier and one without? :) Not a big fan of glacier travel if I can avoid it, but I understand the classics might all require some. 

So far I'm considering routes like Arête Rouge on Aiguillette de la Floria, La Fin De Babylone, and La Barbourine but I wonder if some of the more alpine stuff is worth it if I'm going to go with a guide...

Dave Cramer · · Greenfield, MA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 7
ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,084
Dave Cramer wrote:

I hear great things about this: https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54576/en/pointe-lachenal-contamine-route

I'll confirm that is a very good route. It is also listed here on mp. 

Aaron Liebling · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 952

+1 on that. If you could choose only one, that's a great choice. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107664177/voie-rebuffat-baquet or any of the hard classics directly off the midi are also a great choice

Eric Roe · · Spokane · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 16

Seconding the recommendation for routes on the Aiguille du midi.  You get the full Chamonix experience -- descending from the lift to the glacier, good climbing with awesome views, and the classic rappel onto the viewing platform descent.

Tanner James · · Sierras · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 950

Absolutely pass on barbourine it’s not even remotely in the same league as anything on the Brévent or around the midi. The rebuffat baquet with the 5 star variation finish in the 6c+ corner is all time good in an amazing setting!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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