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Chalk Usage In Climbing

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Adam R wrote:

If it is him, hopefully he gets the joke and doesn't see a hoop to jump through. 

Dr.Gill, he has a PhD...maybe you guys know it's not him and are saying Mr.Gill as a joke I'm not getting.

The “real” John Gill is 86 years old. 

Curmudgeon Don · · Montrose, Co · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 0
Alex R wrote:

Chalk is CHEAP

Shut up and GLISTEN 

Nice!

Curmudgeon Don · · Montrose, Co · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 0

Anyone else curious how much chalk honnold takes with him on his solos in Yosemite? I always thought I’d need at least a chalk bucket full of chalk to get me up 3 thousand feet.

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Dr Logic wrote:

I wonder what's worse, the chalk or burning fossil fuels to get to the crag in the first place. 

Electric cars.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147
Curmudgeon Don wrote:

Anyone else curious how much chalk honnold takes with him on his solos in Yosemite? I always thought I’d need at least a chalk bucket full of chalk to get me up 3 thousand feet.

Based off of the amount of tick marks he left on the west face of El cap that I saw when I was punting around on aid on an adjacent route, I'm going to say quite a lot. 

Mark Frumkin · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 52

We will see in the long run with electric cars, so far it's a negative environmentally. It's a small positive for the air we breathe but much worse in the manufacturing process & we have not seen the end of battery life after 50 million vehicles a year start to lose their batteries. We do produce over 50 million on road vehicles worldwide per year. We desperately need to get away from fossil fuels. It would be nice to do it properly, but that's not the human way! 

Blaming gym climbers for chalk at the crags, really.

Patrik · · Third rock from Sun · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 30

Chalk (from previous climbers) eliminates the pleasure of puzzle solving for an on-sight. There's a shit ton of routes for which we can never get an on-sight anymore and the best we can do is a "white point".

K Go · · Seattle, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 142

I have a Russian gymnast friend who climbs without chalk, and his hands and arms barely sweats, but I'm so hot that even my forearms drip sweat down onto my hands when I shake out. I've tried a few times to go without chalk for a long, moderate gym session as practice in case I forget / lose my chalk bag on a multipitch or something and it's only feasible during winter when the gym is cold, otherwise I paint the plastic with sweat. It's gross and also feels rude to others who will climb next. 

I haven't really used liquid chalk, as people I know who do still carry a chalk bag as sometimes they will start sweating again higher on the route. So what's the point? 

That said, I can't stand loose chalk as it cakes under my fingernails and onto everything I touch, and is really hard to chalk all the way up to my palm while reaching into a chalk bag one-handed. I'm a full convert to the chalk sock and found a chalk bag with a built-in one that can't fall out. A light, even dusting from fingertips to palm combats the sweat but doesn't transfer so much to the wall, plus you can't spill it on the ground and I barely refill it once a month or less. Maybe if you only crimp then loose chalk and fingertips only is enough but for crack climbing sweaty palms is a big problem for me. 

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Lost a chalk bag years ago. Never replaced it. Never needed to, either. The amount of "lost time" of fucking with a chalk bag, dropped to zero. Its just one less thing.

Brandon Moy · · Calgary · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 30
Dr Logic wrote:

Electricity is mostly created by burning coal. 

https://www.eia.gov/energyexplained/electricity/electricity-in-the-us.php

Harry K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

Seriously, some of these people believe they are ready for sainthood because they drive a tesla. 

caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 75

Ohhh nooo you put too much of the white rock dust on the other rock. Whatever will we do

The world is burning. Wasting energy on this is rearranging deck chairs on the titanic.

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212

Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,773

I use a large chalk bag. Very little chalk, but the pockets hold a cell phone, a can of long cut, and a beer fits nicely into the main compartment. Conservative use of chalk, liberal use of a chalk purse. 

Pat Light · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

I douse my six Teslas in chalk every morning

I took a private jet to the lithium mine just so I could pay the foreman to let me execute a worker in cold blood

I charge my electric cars (there are more than the Teslas, that's just one brand) by forcing indigenous day laborers to walk on a circular power-generating treadmill around a roaring bonfire all day. the bonfire serves no purpose except to make the laborers miserably hot and to emit more carbon in the atmosphere. I use california redwoods and hawaiian koa trees. they are particularly carbon-rich

when the laborers are so miserably hot that they begin to sweat profusely.

guess.

guess what it is that I do

guess what I shower on them from a giant lithium-battery-powered Tesla branded drone with six Gucci chalk bags hanging off it

can

can you

can you guess

Short Fall Sean · · Bishop, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 7
Pat Light wrote:

I douse my six Teslas in chalk every morning

I took a private jet to the lithium mine just so I could pay the foreman to let me execute a worker in cold blood

I charge my electric cars (there are more than the Teslas, that's just one brand) by forcing indigenous day laborers to walk on a circular power-generating treadmill around a roaring bonfire all day. the bonfire serves no purpose except to make the laborers miserably hot and to emit more carbon in the atmosphere. I use california redwoods and hawaiian koa trees. they are particularly carbon-rich

when the laborers are so miserably hot that they begin to sweat profusely.

guess.

guess what it is that I do

guess what I shower on them from a giant lithium-battery-powered Tesla branded drone with six Gucci chalk bags hanging off it

can

can you

can you guess

Oooh, this is more fun than the name this route thread.

I'm gonna guess pigs' blood. Is it pigs' blood???

(Also, that's a strong midway contender for post of the year! Well done!)

Curmudgeon Don · · Montrose, Co · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 0
Jimmy Strange wrote:

I blame everything on China. 

That’s Strange, Jimmy. Tell us why…

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 72
Hangdog Steve wrote:

I wish gyms would ban chalk. It's really not necessary, and it's severely overused. I get more than enough chalk on my hands just by climbing on the chalked-up holds. It also makes the air gross and hazy. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that it's a health hazard to breathe it all the time.

If your hands are sweaty, wipe them off with a towel. Works better than chalk.

White Lung is a thing. Not gonna give ya cancer or anything but does have some symptoms when you've breathed too much in.

I had a PT client who would do cardio at the gym like every day and his Dr. told him to stop as he was experiencing many of the side affects of it.
This is one reason liquid chalk is recommended in gyms.

C G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 65

Depending on the hold type, chalk can make between a 10-50% difference on the amount of weight I can hang on a tension block

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

In general…

Few really understand chalk. Most overuse chalk.  Just don’t use chalk at or below 5.7.  Below 5.9+ chalk is likely detrimental to your climbing.  Above 5.11, most need some chalk sometimes.  Those who use chalk reflexively all the time, no matter what, no matter when or where they climb, are among those who just don’t understand.   Chalk in the gym sucks…Skip the chalk, use a rag, train harder.   Those that make a big deal about chalk’s impact probably like to make big deals out of things …because they don’t understand.  

It’s not a big deal one way or another.  It’s just one of those minor annoyances that make for something to post about when bored  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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