Why not Shackles?

Using 1/4" SS chain one can fit a shackle with a WLL of something like 1100 lbs vs a quicklink with a WLL of ~900 lbs.  Not to mention they tend to be a bit cheaper and lighter.   Some very old shackles exist on some classic  climbs in Squamish (Grand Wall) but they certainly aren't popular.   So before I run off and install a rap station using shackles give me a good reason not too. 

Darin Berdinka wrote:

give me a good reason not too. 

I like clipping a carabiner into the quicklink attached to the hanger. It helps the carabiner sit cleanly against the rock and keeps the bottom chainlink free for rappelling. I'm not sure a shackle will mesh well with carabiners. Also, are you honestly concerned with a marginal increase in strength on an already plenty strong component? 

Do you have shackles that stay tight? With a quick link your not loading the rope over the loosing mechanism. If the shackle pin is hanger side it will constantly have forces from multiple directions leading to it loosing I would imagine so I would at least lock tight it.

I've never used a quicklink on a route, I've fitted hundreds of shackles though. I use stainless steel safety shackles which don't come undone as the pin is free to rotate anyway. Cheaper and immensely strong, the 1/4" ones get well over 30kN.

Jim Titt wrote:

I've never used a quicklink on a route, I've fitted hundreds of shackles though. I use stainless steel safety shackles which don't come undone as the pin is free to rotate anyway. Cheaper and immensely strong, the 1/4" ones get well over 30kN.

Link to see them?

I have only used SS quicklinks on routes I have done. It’s an interesting thought process for me as I have always been anti shackle on routes, and pro (soft) shackle for the vehicle recovery kit…

One reason is familiarity. Climbers get uncomfortable when you introduce something they aren’t used to. Especially if that something has extra moving parts that jiggle and is supposed to support their life. 

Jim Titt wrote:

I've never used a quicklink on a route, I've fitted hundreds of shackles though. I use stainless steel safety shackles which don't come undone as the pin is free to rotate anyway. Cheaper and immensely strong, the 1/4" ones get well over 30kN.

Thanks Jim. Please permit me to copy a catalog photo from your website.

I would like to note that the type of safety shackle that Jim is referring to can be seen on his website here: http://bolt-products.com/MaillonsRingsandChain.htm

This type of safety shackle, using a bolt, nut, and cotter pin is not commonly found in the USA.

Beware the ubiquitous shackle design which does not use a separate nut. I would not rely on these unless assembled with red Loctite and safety wired.

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ClimbBaja wrote:

Thanks Jim. Please permit me to copy a catalog photo from your website.

I would like to note that the type of safety shackle that Jim is referring to can be seen on his website here: http://bolt-products.com/MaillonsRingsandChain.htm

This type of safety shackle, using a bolt, nut, and cotter pin is not commonly found in the USA.

 

Beware the ubiquitous shackle design which does not use a separate nut. I would not rely on these unless assembled with red Loctite and safety wired.

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Mousing the shackle in the second picture with wire, or industrial zip ties/metal zip ties would make it safe and is quite common practice in aerial rigging.
But for climbing applications, surely not as ideal.

Darin Berdinka wrote:

Using 1/4" SS chain one can fit a shackle with a WLL of something like 1100 lbs vs a quicklink with a WLL of ~900 lbs.  Not to mention they tend to be a bit cheaper and lighter.   Some very old shackles exist on some classic  climbs in Squamish (Grand Wall) but they certainly aren't popular.   So before I run off and install a rap station using shackles give me a good reason not too. 

Shackles are manufactured by casting or forging and available for different applications. Climbers should only use safety shackles for this design is forged (not cast) and features a separate bolt, nut and cotter pin. They are not only stronger but the rotating bolt ensures that should a climber thread and lower from the shackle, the rotation won't unscrew the pin (potentially with fatal consequences) which is the case with shackles featuring a threaded shoulder.

Safety shackles require two spanners for assembly and this does provide some protection against casual hardware theft.

The cotter pin can be fiddly to reinsert, especially with gloves so I provide spares together with the shackles I sell.

https://climbingboltsupplies.com/product/forged-stainless-steel-pin-d-safety-shackle/

https://climbingboltsupplies.com/product/bow-safety-shackle-with-secure-bolt/

The mass produced, cheap n nasty thread pin variety typically crack where the molten metal meets or at the shoulder so are best avoided!