Longs Peak Keyhole Ridge / Cable Route

My girlfriend and I planning on doing the Keyhole Ridge or Cable Route in about 3 weeks. We‘re flying in from the European Alps and are leaving on Saturday. The first half of the trip will bring us to Yosemite, second half to Boulder. I hear it’s still pretty snowy up at the boulder field, so what kind of equipment should we bring? What kind of rope? And is there a place to rent / lend ropes and other equipment?

We’re definitely bringing a small rack of nuts and cams, but we were not planning on bringing ice equipment, since that will strain our luggage capacity. Any thoughts on that?

I am happy for any kind of recommendations

Thanks 

- Matt

Matt Luke wrote:

And is there a place to rent / lend ropes and other equipment?

No, not for ropes, harnesses or other soft goods due to liability concerns.

Helmets and ice hardware *might* be available for rent, but I'm not at all certain.

Dunno about current conditions, but Neptune’s does have some gear rentals, though not ropes.

https://neptunemountaineering.com/pages/rentals-and-ski-shop

Hey friend!

Went up this AM. Snow starts at the base of Cables and covers most of the terrain to the summit. We found it super enjoyable! Hit the snow around 8am(?) and descended around 900(?) - it was perfect. Easy kicking.

If you attempt this route I’d highly recommend being comfortable soloing. (Snow and bits of exposed & wet slab). 

Protection will be poor due to minimal exposed rock and lack of ice. Only two eyebolts were visible today.

We had two axes (used minimally but good for self arresting on soft snow), one set of trekking poles between the two of us, and micro spikes. All recommended.

A thin rope or tagline may be nice for rappelling (if down climbing feels sketchy). 

Temps were ideal today but it was still nice to have a change of socks and two pairs of thin gloves- It’s easy to soak through em!

All said- 3 weeks is a long time in the alpine- conditions may vary ;)

I don’t use this platform much but I do go up there frequently this time of year. Feel free to call/ text if you want more info.

Best of luck!

3036190346

Thank you, that was very helpful! The picture just looks perfect

Jackie Niles wrote:

Hey friend!

Went up this AM. Snow starts at the base of Cables and covers most of the terrain to the summit. We found it super enjoyable! Hit the snow around 8am(?) and descended around 900(?) - it was perfect. Easy kicking.

If you attempt this route I’d highly recommend being comfortable soloing. (Snow and bits of exposed & wet slab). 

Protection will be poor due to minimal exposed rock and lack of ice. Only two eyebolts were visible today.

We had two axes (used minimally but good for self arresting on soft snow), one set of trekking poles between the two of us, and micro spikes. All recommended.

A thin rope or tagline may be nice for rappelling (if down climbing feels sketchy). 

Temps were ideal today but it was still nice to have a change of socks and two pairs of thin gloves- It’s easy to soak through em!

All said- 3 weeks is a long time in the alpine- conditions may vary ;)

I don’t use this platform much but I do go up there frequently this time of year. Feel free to call/ text if you want more info.

Best of luck!

3036190346

Great report Jackie! 

@Matt, Jackie's report is pretty spot on - you can also check with the Colorado Mountain School (Guide service) who is up in that zone all the time. We have a guide heading out for these routes tomorrow. I have done that link-up many times (Keyhole Ridge, Down NorthFace/Cables).  If you want the luxury of rapping the Cables, it's nice to have a 60M rope, but can certainly be done with less if you down climb.