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Must do crags by state
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Not asking about "the best" but SPORT crags that I shouldn't miss if I'm in the neighborhood. Obviously RRG for KY, NRG for WV, maple for UT, smith for OR, etc... Curious to hear about obscure crags that are probably overlooked. |
Jeremy L wrote: Grade range you're most interested in? |
Ricky Harline wrote: Anything from 5.5 to 5.13 SPORT lines |
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Maple is far from the best crag in Utah. I'd hesitate to give it top 5. It wouldn't be too bad to drive past imo. All I know is the best crag in Oklahoma is Wichita Mountain. |
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Not necessarily looking for "the best" but asking about "must do". I mentioned maple because of (what I thought was) the unique cobbles that I haven't seen anywhere else |
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For 5.9 and under multipitch sport in the Western US you're going to have a hard time beating Emmigrant Wall in NorCal not far from Tahoe. Probably a solid 2-4 days of sport climbing out there depending on how fast you can scoot up the routes. The new coastal sport routes in the North Bay Area are seriously fun and not to be missed, it's some of the first climbing in the bay area I would actually travel for. It gets seriously mobbed on weekends, however. |
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New England: Maine—I’d say Shagg Crag—mostly hard, though a few easier routes have recently been put up. Vermont—Probably Bolton —lots of crags and routes to choose from. Lone Rock Point, if you are primarily interested in very difficult routes. Massachusetts—Farley Ledge. Rhode Island—don’t know if there are sport climbing crags—not really that many crags, but very good bouldering at Lincoln Woods if that is a ‘consolation prize’ option. Connecticut—Another state with very limited sport climbing options—though much more rock than R.I., and hard to say which is the ‘best’ of the limited options—and at almost all of them, pretty much only hard routes are bolted ( though there may well be some ‘under the radar’ locales, kept that way to preserve the bolts from vandalism). Of those I am familiar with, Chatfield Hollow, Firewall, and Pine Ledge are all ‘contenders’. Hanging Mountain, just over the border in MA has a better spread of grades—but doesn’t let you ‘check off’ CT on your ‘quest’. Not New England, but I’ll be interested in what folks recommend for NY—a state with a considerable amount of rock and climbing; but overwhelmingly traditional. Probably Thatcher State Park, but I’m not a fan due to very questionable rock quality. |
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Sweet NE recommendations. Never been but looks like a good buffet. Thanks! |
Ricky Harline wrote: I love the stuff on the coast in Marin, but I wouldn't necessarily do more than local level travel for it. Emmigrant Wall is a good call for new leaders and new multi-pitchers for sure. |
Where's Walden wrote: Not trying to call you out here, but definitely want to provide some more detail... The Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge has a shit ton of crags, with a shit ton of proper granite Trad climbing, it is not a single crag, and not sport climbing. Some may consider Quartz mountain to be superior, but again, there are numerous crags at Quartz Mountain, definitely old school granite trad, and not sport climbing. |
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Northern Utah: AF, Logan/Blacksmith, Maple, Poptire, bunch of sleeper hits after that. Southern Utah hits mix in with the AZ strip and Nevada stuff but if you're in the Area: Utah Hills, Lime Kiln, Lambs Knoll, VRG, Kolab. ID: Fins, Riggins, Massacre, |
Natalie Blackburn wrote: Don't forget those who aren't experienced on friction slab! which is a lot of people Fair enough on the coastal climbing. I just love climbing with the waves crashing below ya, but I guess there's lots of places you can experience that. |
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Does this N bay/Marin coastal climbing crag have a name? I'm landlocked so this actually sounds pretty sick |
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California:
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Jeremy L wrote: The whole Mickey's Beach area, but I (and everyone else in the Bay Area) am particularly in love with the new routes put up at Vent 5 and Kym's Gym. Parking is legit becoming such a large issue that it might actually harm access. I recommend simply avoiding these two crags on the weekends-- there are plenty of other places, even nearby, that don't get swarmed nearly as badly on weekends. |
Isaac Gromacki wrote: I suppose that climbing at the Creek IS sport climbing… |
Ricky Harline wrote: I also try to only go to Kym's and Vent 5 on weekdays. |
Rew Exo wrote: I was going to say Tioga Wall and Bear Crag, but you beat me to it! Both of those places have a large number of high quality routes in a concentrated area. |
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There's not a lot of sport in NC, but two worthwhile areas, if you're in the region, are Pilot Mountain and Sauratown Mountain(only open to climbing from December-March) Virginia: Hidden Valley and the Guest River Gorge Tennessee: Obed River West Virginia: New, Summersville Lake and the Meadow River Utah: You had Maple on your list, definitely check out American Fork if you're in that region |
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VA: Breaks Interstate Park |
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Was wondering about NC. Thanks for the tip. And yeah, obed is 100% |
