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Grand Teton
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Anyone have an update on the condition of the appoach. Also Exum or the Owen Spalding. |
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Hi. I would like climbing in Jackson and grand teton area. Im on the way. Going from ten Sleep. All stile climbing. 1 (309) 892-1076 See You |
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Thanks for the site. Sounds like a person would need to carry a lot of gear up there. |
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I just did the full exum, there's still a lot steep snow getting up garnet and on the upper mountain. Lower exum was dry except the 4 class ramp at the start had a layer of ice on a 30 foot section of it which made it very sketchy. On Owen the sargents chimney pitch was full of ice, not sure how it would climb as we just rappelled it during the descent, didn't see the rest of owen. |
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The rangers still have this posted @ https://tetonclimbing.blogspot.com/: "from the moraine to the Lower Saddle, the winter route is still the best option." As WH points out, that isn't true. The ranger's blog is updated on a casual basis and may not always reflect current conditions. If you don't mind mixed conditions, it's a great time to be climbing before all the climbers seeking dry conditions arrive. Almost no one was in Garnet Canyon or on the Grand this past week except the guides. The guides are mostly on the Exum Ridge as it has the best conditions. |
Wind River wrote: How dry are the camp sites in Garnet and/or the caves? |
ddriver wrote: They're dry. |
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Thanks for the heads up. I still might wait a week hoping not to carry a rope. |
Donald Bearie wrote: No crampons needed to reach the upper saddle. Even when the rangers were advising crampons on the 9th for the approach, it was possible to walk around the hazards if you didn't mind the indirect route and extra time. If you were headed for the Middle Teton up the south fork, then crampons and axe would be advised. No harm in calling the ranger station or the climbers' ranch for the latest info they have. Even the office staff at the guiding services are sometimes happy to answer a simple question: "Are you using crampons to get up the Grand right now?" It's not like being unhelpful to potential customers or the general public is in their best interest. And most are decent people happy to help others...most. |
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Hot and dry and melting fast up there. Folks coming off the OS saying they can easily bypass snow and ice. Walked out yesterday. |
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Didnt get on the OS but as of yesterday you can get to the upper saddle and only touch two or three short flat stretches of snow, all easily bypassed. ie no crampons or ax needed to upper saddle. The ranger blog posted a photo of the OS from the enclosure and it looked fine without pointy gear *to me* but ymmv. |
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This am from Teton Canyon on the west side. Fresh snow to below the lower saddle overnight and lots of rain all weekend.  |
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YIKES! |
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My wife and I plan on climbing the Upper Exum next weekend. Following to see how things shape up after this wet cold spell. |
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These are all as of yesterday. Step Across and Exum Gully:    |
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Following for potential updates |
Trad Man wrote: Dunno how the weather's been since early August but on the 12th OS had a bit of snow in the first chimney after the crawl, some snow/ice on the second chimney, and verglas on the last one where the first rap station is. |
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Sounds like it was rimey and verglassed from the Upper Saddle to the top today. I bet it healed later in the day, but there's a lot of water up there. It'll probably continue to form ice as long as it keeps freezing. |
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Summitted today via upper Exum, totally dry. Little patches of some ice at the very summit but nothing you couldn’t easily avoid. |
