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Ingrown fingernails from crimping

Original Post
Chris Loh · · Los Angeles CA · Joined May 2019 · Points: 35

In recent months I am getting an ingrown-like finger nail injury on the side of my fingernails from crimping. Basically I am applying pressure to the first pad of my finger and it’s pushing the nail into the skin. This comes from crimping, doesn’t matter if it’s 8 letter grades below my limit, it happens within a few routes and takes over a week to heal. Annoying as hell and I need to figure out a way to heal these quicker or prevent them from happening every time I climb. Would almost rather have a pulley injury

Any advice?



Lincoln S · · Goleta · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 287

I sometimes get these, though not to the extent that you describe. I found that aggressively moisturizing cuticles and side-nails was really important. I have a little zipper pocket on my chalk bag, and I keep a stick of Rhino split in there so I can re-moisturize immediately after climbing. If I get one of those splits, liquid bandage seems to speed along healing nicely. I also started trimming the thick skin right next to the nail, because it can get super thick and hard to keep moisturized and flexible, leading to more splits.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

looks more like a hang nail(?)  do you get a tiny little sliver of cuticle-like material that pops up, and then you pull it (and it hurts like hell)?

Chris Loh · · Los Angeles CA · Joined May 2019 · Points: 35

I used to get that a little bit but this seems to be different.
I bet the solution would be similar though. I’ll try moisturizing

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Chris- keep your nails trimmed short and wash hands and use moisturizer on them after you chalk up and climb.
I get the “cuticle” sticking out from the side of my nail - never ever- pull it out. That gets infected quickly.
Good luck. 

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

Welcome to man-hands

pk wink · · Washington, District of Columb · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0

Crimping: you’re doing it wrong 

Harry K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

maybe try open hand or half crimp instead?  I starting switching to these positions most of the time and after a few years now my open hand and half crimp is almost as good as my full crimp. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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