sizing la sportiva TX4

I just wanted to ask if any of you had any tips on fitting approach shoes. I've trying some lasportiva tx4's on and I'm having trouble getting the right size. My aisics running shoes are a 9.5, my sketchers I work in are a 9.5, and my vasque hiking boot is a 10. A 42 1/2 euro seems to have better traction on the climbing wall but the 43 has a thumbs length of room in the front. Also when I walk in the 42 1/2 my toe almost touches the front and has a half thumbs length of room in the front. The brannock device indicates a size of 42 1/2 standing up. When I pretend to walk foward my big toe barely goes over 42 1/2. Is it better to go tighter in the TX4 or go for a more comfy fit? 

The answer is incredibly simple: it depends on whether or not you prioritize scrambling/climbing performance or hiking comfort. It's a tradeoff with no right answer other than perhaps having two pairs of approach shoes. 

Also remember your feet swell during the day, esp after walking/standing a full day. 

I'll consider both of your points. How good are they at climbing compared to a hiking boot or a climbing shoe? How much does a comfy fit compromise the climbing ability of the shoe? 

how would you possibly want a thumbs or even a half a thumbs worth of room in an approach shoe? I'm not sure I understand that, as I can't think of a situation where you'd want a lot of slop on your shoes. What *does* seem to make sense is to fit them with regular socks to a snug enough fit where you can scramble/climb to the level you want/need. Then, bring a pair of thinner socks for the walk up and walk off, if the regular socks aren't comfortable enough to walk distances in.

So for my approach shoes I generally like them snug enough that they climb well but I can still generally hike comfortably in them. After very long hikes or steep down hills they kill my feet, but most of the time I can hike for a few hours fine. Going up a half size from that size kills the edging ability noticeably, which makes things like the sketchy north dome gully descent much scarier, so I prefer putting up with occasional hiking discomfort. Doing the hike down from Braille Book recently was really uncomfortable for example, but most of the time the hiking performance is fine. 

At this fit they edge noticeably better than say sneakers or hiking boots, but I've been scrambling a lot in cheap sneakers recently and unless it's sketchy scrambling I've been finding those work totally fine. I think a lot of people wear approach shoes when any other shoe would do fine, so I've been wearing my approach shoes less and less to save them for when I really need them. But for terrifying Valley approaches and walk offs which are usually described as something like "chill third class" you couldn't pay me to be in anything other than fairly snug approach shoes. 

When you try on approach shoes at the store try edging in them. You'll find a size that's fairly comfortable to hike in but if you go up a half size from that they start edging terribly. That's the sweet spot. You can choose to go down for more scrambling performance or go up for more comfort, but most people will choose that size unless getting a second pair for a specific application. 

So I got some tx4's in the 42 1/2 and climbed with them up beehive peak; going up 4th of july couloir and taking the 5.2 gully. To give some context I tried them on at the climbing gym and got them sized up there. I chose the 42 1/2 as they held on the wall better than the 43 and my foot felt firm in them. I wore them around the place and doing chores to break them in a little. They did good on the climb up and felt comfortable but not loose. On the climb down they started to be uncomfortable on the right foot (the left foot was good and had no problems). It wasn't unbearable, but it was quite annoying. I got a small blister near the front of my heel on the bottom, along with some rubbing on my big and pinkie toe where hangnails had fallen out. The shoes also got wet from having to go across snow, so that didn't help as well. Is there any way I can prevent this from happening on future climbs i.e using foot glide? Also how long is the break in period for these shoes if there is any? 

Buy two pairs. I and many others have done so. A snug fit got scrambling/climbing and a relaxed pair for approach/hiking purposes. 

In my case:

42 EU for climbing

42.5 EU for approach

Street shoe size is 42 EU

Also consider it may not be the shoe for you.  I wear the TX4 but there's not a size TX Guide that I can wear.

I found my TX4s to stretch a lot.  Keep that in mind when deciding which size to choose.

Climb On wrote:

Also consider it may not be the shoe for you.  I wear the TX4 but there's not a size TX Guide that I can wear.

The width doesnt seem to be the problem as my foot is only a hairs width over D. 

MP Merchant wrote:

can you elaborate on this some more? i'm having trouble finding the best approach shoe for my foot. TX Guides seem to be too narrow even when i go a half size up. i wear mostly 7 (39.5) and for a relaxed fit 7.5 climbing shoes. i wear 7.5 street shoes. i have an 8 (40.5) TX Guide because the 40 was way to narrow. are the TX4s less narrow? i remember trying on TX4s and not finding a good fit, and trying on the womens versions. i'm trying the scarpa cruxs soon but i dont like the sole. base of the shoe is less wide than the shoe above (sorry if that doesnt make sense). i tend to twist my ankle in shoes like that.

in addition to this, the TX Guides are the hardest shoe to break in i have ever owned. they were so incredibly stiff and uncomfortable at first. i kept getting hot spots in places ive never gotten them before with any other shoe. they are getting better now but shit. im glad i bought them from REI, i might actually return them after a couple months of trying to break them in.

I have the same problem you do in the guides. The TX4 has almost too much room but I can get a decent fit. They’re much rounder in the toes than the guide.

MP Merchant wrote:

can you elaborate on this some more? i'm having trouble finding the best approach shoe for my foot. TX Guides seem to be too narrow even when i go a half size up. i wear mostly 7 (39.5) and for a relaxed fit 7.5 climbing shoes. i wear 7.5 street shoes. i have an 8 (40.5) TX Guide because the 40 was way to narrow. are the TX4s less narrow? i remember trying on TX4s and not finding a good fit, and trying on the womens versions. i'm trying the scarpa cruxs soon but i dont like the sole. base of the shoe is less wide than the shoe above (sorry if that doesnt make sense). i tend to twist my ankle in shoes like that.

in addition to this, the TX Guides are the hardest shoe to break in i have ever owned. they were so incredibly stiff and uncomfortable at first. i kept getting hot spots in places ive never gotten them before with any other shoe. they are getting better now but shit. im glad i bought them from REI, i might actually return them after a couple months of trying to break them in.

The tx4 are wider than the guides. It may be that being a leather shoe it needs to break in. I also consider the suggestion to get 2 pairs of approach shoes.