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Mythos sizing for Morton's (Greek) toe

Original Post
Chris Durand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 0

I'm a beginner climber. Most of my experience so far is in the gym, with the exception of a couple of guided climbing/canyoneering days around Zion National Park and in the Moab area. In the gym, I'm doing V3/V4 and 5.10+/5.11-.

My question is about shoes. I have pronounced Morton's toe—my second toe is at least 1/2" longer than my first toe. This eliminates most climbing shoes as a possibility.

I came across this post on Mountain Project, which suggests that the LS Mythos may be a good choice. How should I size it? I am between 45.5 and 46 in street shoes. (If I size for my second toe, it's 46. If I size for my first toe, it's 45.5.)

Thanks!

Stefan Jacobsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0

I’m size 43 when it comes to street shoes, and my Mythos are 41 for a tight all day fit. 

Douglas Costguard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 0

Hi Chris. I have greek toes too, but not as pronounced as yours. I suggest to have a look at "Mountain Footwear Project". It is a website catalogue for climbing shoes where you can filter for Morton's toe and get size recommendations as well. Sounds like I am marketing the page, but just psyched about its functionality. Another page is RockRun’s "Rock Shoe Sizing Guide". Look there for climbing shoes that are "centered". I have found that Tenaya, Mad Rock, Evolv and FiveTen/Unparallell suits my slightly prounounced greek toes. 

V3/V4 and 5.10+/5.11-. I'll bump you up to intermediate. Happy hunting!

DeLa Cruce · · SWEDEN · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0

my second toe is about 1/4” longer than my big toe. I wear a 43-44 in regular shoes and my Mythos are 43.

Chris Durand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 0
Douglas Costguard wrote:

Hi Chris. I have greek toes too, but not as pronounced as yours. I suggest to have a look at "Mountain Footwear Project". It is a website catalogue for climbing shoes where you can filter for Morton's toe and get size recommendations as well. Sounds like I am marketing the page, but just psyched about its functionality. Another page is RockRuns "Rock Shoe Sizing Guide". Look there for climbing shoes that are "centered". I have found that Tenaya, Mad Rock, Evolv and FiveTen/Unparallell suits my slightly prounounced greek toes. 

V3/V4 and 5.10+/5.11-. I'll bump you up to intermediate. Happy hunting!

Thanks, Nicolai!

The only two shoes I've tried are the LS Katana Lace and the Five Ten NIAD VCS. The Katana Laces were far too asymmetrical. The Five Tens had a more square toe box, but even at just one half size below my street shoe, my second and third toes were so jammed up you could easily see them bulging against the top of the shoe. I couldn't wear them for more than 3 minutes, much less for a pitch or all day!

I just measured my toes. My second toe is almost 5/8" longer than my first. And even my third toe is 3/8" longer than my first toe! 

I will check out Mountain Footwear Project and RockRuns. And I think I will try the LS Mythos. Thanks again!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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