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La Sportiva Finale vs Mythos — Friction Slab/Comfort

Original Post
Austin Mauney · · Little Rock, AR · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 10

I currently have two shoes I use for outdoor climbing: a pair of La Sportiva Katanas and a pair of Solutions.

I love them both and typically use the Katanas mostly for vertical stuff and the Solutions for steeper stuff near my limit and bouldering. Neither shoe is great for smearing, though, and I’d like something suited for friction slab.

I am currently in the market for something sticky that would be ideal for friction slab route climbing and ideally something comfortable enough for multi-pitch and suitable for crack climbing. La Sportivas are on sale currently, and they fit my feet well, so I’ve been looking at Finales and Mythos. What would you recommend?

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Talo Martin considers the mythos his secret weapon. 

WHAM . · · Utah · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 1

I own both of these. The Mythos is a lot softer and if your feet are strong enough they may be better on slab but I always actually have better luck in the Finales

Brandon R · · CA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 194

Didn't LS switch to their in-house Frixion rubber on Mythos? If so, go with the Finale. 

Jack Bushway · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 10

TC’s?

Austin Mauney · · Little Rock, AR · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 10
Jack Bushway wrote:

TC’s?

I’ve thought about it, but I don’t do enough multipitch trad to justify the expense. Plus, I think they might be a bit stiffer than what I’m looking for.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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