New Petzl belay device
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Desert Rock Sports wrote: On an instagram post by Karsten Delap, he had a triact-locking new Attache he had been testing, so maybe they will release autolocking gates for that and the Rocha. I love the Sm'D twist and triact for various things. |
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I played with the new Attache and Rocha in a store today. The gates and locking mechanism are exactly the same as last generation, as far as I can tell. The new Atache is a nice upgrade, but I'm not sure it's worth replacing the last generation Ataches, unless that little bit of smoother rope feeding is worth it for you. But if you need to buy a new carabiner, sure, it's a light biner that has a smoth rope feed. The Attache Bar plastic thing feels really cheap and crappy. It's light, it's nice that you can remove it, and it's nice that it fits on a range of carabiners, so I think some people will like it, but it's feels terrible to use. The action is uneven and imprecise. Maybe the best thing about it is that you can remove it and have a silver Attache, if you feel the need to color coordinate? The new Rocha looks really nice. KD had a instagram post where he showed that the Rocha is big enough for a Munter to roll through, so if that's your thing you could potentially use the Rocha for ropework, munters, clove hitches and so on. It will be a little lighter than an Attache, and a little harder to oerate with big hands/gloves, but it could be the perfect carabiner for some people/applications. I have several of the old Spirit locking asymentrical D carabiners, and I wish they still had that option also. Anyway, if I see the Neox here in Europe I'll post up. I'm also interested to see the new connect adjust. |
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How about taking the 'biner discussion to a different thread/post. This was originally started as a Neox thread. |
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Looks like the release date is 6/20/2024: grube.eu/p/petzl-neox-safet… |
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Grayson G wrote: Was coming to post the same thing! |
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HAI GUYS. Wuts going on in hur? |
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Has anyone actually used this? Wondering how smooth it feeds in comparison with a Revo? |
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I know a couple people that have used it for lead belaying, though don't know if they have experience with a Revo for comparison. They both said the feed was excellent. The other advantage of the Neox, would be the smaller size and easier to control lowering/rapping. The only advantage of the Revo I see is that it has bi-directional locking...if that's an advantage. I personally hate the materials/construction/quality compared to GGs and I assume the Neox. My main interest in the Neox is possible LRS use, but it will be hard to beat the GG+. Time will tell. |
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Brad Johnson wrote: Haven’t used a revo, but I thought it felt like belaying with an ATC. It’s odd, it didn’t feel like more friction, but the rope moved a little slower or with more “weight,” which probably means a touch more friction. |
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Doctor Drake wrote: Do you need to still hold down the Neox's camming lever with your thumb or can you pay out slack just by pulling on the climbers side? |
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Grayson G wrote: No need to hold the camming lever - honestly you can kind of just keep a hold on the brake side and let the climber pay out their own slack (or belay as you would a tuber), that’s how easy it is. You may need to use the thumb in panic clipping situations where they’re pulling rope quickly though |
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Tal M wrote: Yup. For everyone with questions, I can't stress this enough: it's just like feeding with an ATC. To Tal's point about "panic clipping situations," messing around with it in a classroom setting, I couldn't get it activate the brake assist without being really dramatic, pulling up super hard, in a way that you would never ever do while belaying, even in a panicked situation. I can't think of any device that I would rather use in a single pitch context: the ease of use of a tuber with the risk mitigation/assisted braking of the GRIGRI. It's brilliant. |
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maybe some has answered this(or petzl says that you can or can't do this) but can you use this for ascending like the GG? I am just wondering with how the grabing mechanism is different then the GG and ones that are like it. |
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Andrew Sour wrote: You most certainly can use it for ascending. |
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Is this a full on GriGri replacement or are there certain applications where you'd want to use a GriGri instead? |
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jordand wrote: The GG gives you a lot more immediate and idiot-proof stopping power, at a slight cost to belay smoothness. The NEOX gives you a lot smoother slack payout, at a slight but nonetheless compelling cost to immediate and idiot-proof stopping power. I would expect a completely unmanaged GG to catch a fall almost immediately. I’d expect a completely unmanaged NEOX to be much more of a liability, especially if adding 10-15 feet of fall distance would be catastrophic. |
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Pat Light wrote: What is this based on? I used one and didn’t feel this way at all |
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bearded sam wrote: brother I used one and I felt this way a bunch, idk what to tell you — which part doesn’t sound right to you? |
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Pat Light wrote: Whichever one of you is right it's going to have massive ramifications for its utility for LRS. Guess we'll know for certain with time. |