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New Petzl belay device

K Go · · Seattle, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 142
Desert Rock Sports wrote:

The Rocha is significantly smaller.

The new Attache and Rocha both have gates that don't spin freely... you can not just flick your thumb and have it spin to locked or unlocked. Its closer to the old Metolius Element.  

Maybe they will make a twist lock / 2-stage Rocha, but I doubt it.

On an instagram post by Karsten Delap, he had a triact-locking new Attache he had been testing, so maybe they will release autolocking gates for that and the Rocha. I love the Sm'D twist and triact for various things. 

Bruno Schull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

I played with the new Attache and Rocha in a store today.  The gates and locking mechanism are exactly the same as last generation, as far as I can tell. 

The new Atache is a nice upgrade, but I'm not sure it's worth replacing the last generation Ataches, unless that little bit of smoother rope feeding is worth it for you.  But if you need to buy a new carabiner, sure, it's a light biner that has a smoth rope feed.

The Attache Bar plastic thing feels really cheap and crappy.  It's light, it's nice that you can remove it, and it's nice that it fits on a range of carabiners, so I think some people will like it, but it's feels terrible to use.  The action is uneven and imprecise. Maybe the best thing about it is that you can remove it and have a silver Attache, if you feel the need to color coordinate?

The new Rocha looks really nice. KD had a instagram post where he showed that the Rocha is big enough for a Munter to roll through, so if that's your thing you could potentially use the Rocha for ropework, munters, clove hitches and so on.  It will be a little lighter than an Attache, and a little harder to oerate with big hands/gloves, but it could be the perfect carabiner for some people/applications. 

I have several of the old Spirit locking asymentrical D carabiners, and I wish they still had that option also.  

Anyway, if I see the Neox here in Europe I'll post up. 

I'm also interested to see the new connect adjust.

SICgrips · · Charlottesville · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 146

How about taking the 'biner discussion to a different thread/post. This was originally started as a Neox thread.

Grayson G · · Northern California · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 30

Looks like the release date is 6/20/2024: grube.eu/p/petzl-neox-safet…

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Grayson G wrote:

Looks like the release date is 6/20/2024: grube.eu/p/petzl-neox-safet…

Was coming to post the same thing! 

hillbilly hijinks · · Conquistador of the Useless · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 193

HAI GUYS.

Wuts going on in hur?

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

Has anyone actually used this? Wondering how smooth it feeds in comparison with a Revo?  

SICgrips · · Charlottesville · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 146

I know a couple people that have used it for lead belaying, though don't know if they have experience with a Revo for comparison. They both said the feed was excellent. The other advantage of the Neox, would be the smaller size and easier to control lowering/rapping. The only advantage of the Revo I see is that it has bi-directional locking...if that's an advantage. I personally hate the materials/construction/quality compared to GGs and I assume the Neox.

My main interest in the Neox is possible LRS use, but it will be hard to beat the GG+. Time will tell.

Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0
Doctor Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 126
Brad Johnson wrote:

Has anyone actually used this? Wondering how smooth it feeds in comparison with a Revo?  

Haven’t used a revo, but I thought it felt like belaying with an ATC. It’s odd, it didn’t feel like more friction, but the rope moved a little slower or with more “weight,” which probably means a touch more friction.

Grayson G · · Northern California · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 30
Doctor Drake wrote:

Haven’t used a revo, but I thought it felt like belaying with an ATC. It’s odd, it didn’t feel like more friction, but the rope moved a little slower or with more “weight,” which probably means a touch more friction.

Do you need to still hold down the Neox's camming lever with your thumb or can you pay out slack just by pulling on the climbers side?

Tal M · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 3,921
Grayson G wrote:

Do you need to still hold down the Neox's camming lever with your thumb or can you pay out slack just by pulling on the climbers side?

No need to hold the camming lever - honestly you can kind of just keep a hold on the brake side and let the climber pay out their own slack (or belay as you would a tuber), that’s how easy it is. You may need to use the thumb in panic clipping situations where they’re pulling rope quickly though

Doctor Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 126
Tal M wrote:

No need to hold the camming lever - honestly you can kind of just keep a hold on the brake side and let the climber pay out their own slack (or belay as you would a tuber), that’s how easy it is. You may need to use the thumb in panic clipping situations where they’re pulling rope quickly though

Yup.

For everyone with questions, I can't stress this enough: it's just like feeding with an ATCTo Tal's point about "panic clipping situations," messing around with it in a classroom setting, I couldn't get it activate the brake assist without being really dramatic, pulling up super hard, in a way that you would never ever do while belaying, even in a panicked situation.

I can't think of any device that I would rather use in a single pitch context: the ease of use of a tuber with the risk mitigation/assisted braking of the GRIGRI. It's brilliant.

Andrew Sour · · Minnesota · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 31

maybe some has answered this(or petzl says that you can or can't do this) but can you use this for ascending like the GG? I am just wondering with how the grabing mechanism is different then the GG and ones that are like it.

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 72
Andrew Sour wrote:

maybe some has answered this(or petzl says that you can or can't do this) but can you use this for ascending like the GG? I am just wondering with how the grabing mechanism is different then the GG and ones that are like it.

You most certainly can use it for ascending.

jordand · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 100

Is this a full on GriGri replacement or are there certain applications where you'd want to use a GriGri instead?

Pat Light · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0
jordand wrote:

Is this a full on GriGri replacement or are there certain applications where you'd want to use a GriGri instead?

The GG gives you a lot more immediate and idiot-proof stopping power, at a slight cost to belay smoothness. The NEOX gives you a lot smoother slack payout, at a slight but nonetheless compelling cost to immediate and idiot-proof stopping power.

I would expect a completely unmanaged GG to catch a fall almost immediately. I’d expect a completely unmanaged NEOX to be much more of a liability, especially if adding 10-15 feet of fall distance would be catastrophic.

bearded sam · · Crested Butte, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 145
Pat Light wrote:

The GG gives you a lot more immediate and idiot-proof stopping power, at a slight cost to belay smoothness. The NEOX gives you a lot smoother slack payout, at a slight but nonetheless compelling cost to immediate and idiot-proof stopping power.

I would expect a completely unmanaged GG to catch a fall almost immediately. I’d expect a completely unmanaged NEOX to be much more of a liability, especially if adding 10-15 feet of fall distance would be catastrophic.

What is this based on? I used one and didn’t feel this way at all

Pat Light · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0
bearded sam wrote:

What is this based on? I used one and didn’t feel this way at all

brother I used one and I felt this way a bunch, idk what to tell you — which part doesn’t sound right to you?

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147
Pat Light wrote:

brother I used one and I felt this way a bunch, idk what to tell you — which part doesn’t sound right to you?

Whichever one of you is right it's going to have massive ramifications for its utility for LRS. Guess we'll know for certain with time. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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