New Petzl belay device

New Petzl Belay device...

Please discuss!!!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/trade_show_reports/ots_2023_-_our_best_of_the_show-15224

Note: the original text I quoted here has since changed on UKC--you might want to check out the new text.  

Seems cool for the folks who want that… I guess I just wish they didn’t make it look just like a gri gri? Things that look alike and function differently just worries me a bit I guess. 

I’ll be honest, this thing doesn’t look like it’s worth the money and reduced utility. Also hard agree on your point about designing it to look like a grigri.

One question I have:

Does the rotating wheel thingy just rotate freely to reduce friction and aid rope movement?  Or is an intertial wheel like a Revo?

There are some videos and other quick reports floating around b ut it's hard to find answers. 

B

My guess is the wheel will lock up at a certain speed like and ASAP, REVO, etc to get the device to engage.

could be interesting for some TRS or LRS application though depending on how good or bad the descent is. I assume it wont be that bad considering you're meant to lower another climber off so should work smooth enough for rappel too.

I've used it - it's rad and once my grigri dies I'll absolutely be replacing it with this.

IIRC the wheel spins to allow easy slack payout but with a fall the force is still enough to engage the cam just like a grigri

A Tal M

Thanks for the first hand information.  Having used the device, can you shed some light on this sentence from the UKC news?

"The disadvantage to the new wheel system is that it doesn't allow you to ascend a rope or self-belay like you can with the GriGri, while abseiling would be less than optimal."

I would immagine that the rotating wheel would make this device feed pretty well for TRS or LRS...maybe too well?  Too much backfeeding, or risk of failing?

Also, does the handle have the GriGri + anti-panic feature?

Thanks.

Looks like a new carabiner too

Bruno Schull wrote:

A Tal M

Thanks for the first hand information.  Having used the device, can you shed some light on this sentence from the UKC news?

"The disadvantage to the new wheel system is that it doesn't allow you to ascend a rope or self-belay like you can with the GriGri, while abseiling would be less than optimal."

I would immagine that the rotating wheel would make this device feed pretty well for TRS or LRS...maybe too well?  Too much backfeeding, or risk of failing?

Also, does the handle have the GriGri + anti-panic feature?

Thanks.

Can’t speak to the first of these as I haven’t used it to ascend or self belay. There’s no anti panic on it.

As for the carabiner that just looks like the attache with holes in the nose like the new spirits. They do have a new attache releasing that’s round stock on the wider end of the pear shape though, as well as the anti crossload option for it.

For gym heroes 

Hmm, rope can run through it slowly but not fast. Sounds like a potential device for solo leading.

Gunkiemike wrote:

Hmm, rope can run through it slowly but not fast. Sounds like a potential device for solo leading.

Definitely do more research before you try that out. I recommend starting with the paragraph quoted in the OP… lol

Tal M wrote:

I've used it - it's rad and once my grigri dies I'll absolutely be replacing it with this.

IIRC the wheel spins to allow easy slack payout but with a fall the force is still enough to engage the cam just like a grigri

How does "taking" while projecting work, does it still lock easily without a certain speed of rope running through the wheel? I imagine this is probably the same on the Revo but I'm not sure how taking works on that device either.

Chuck Becker wrote:

How does "taking" while projecting work, does it still lock easily without a certain speed of rope running through the wheel? I imagine this is probably the same on the Revo but I'm not sure how taking works on that device either.

Functionally the same as the grigri

Also is this right hand specific like a Gri-Gri?

Bruno Schull wrote:

New Petzl Belay device...

Please discuss!!!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/trade_show_reports/ots_2023_-_our_best_of_the_show-15224

"At first glance the Neox looks almost identical to a GriGri, but once you slide open the cover and look at the internal workings the difference is clear - like Wild Country's Revo, there is a moving wheel inside.  The Neox is aimed at giving the belayer smoother rope handling over the GriGri, with the ability to feed out rope quicker to a lead climber, give a softer catch and take in slack faster when needed. The disadvantage to the new wheel system is that it doesn't allow you to ascend a rope or self-belay like you can with the GriGri, while abseiling would be less than optimal. It'll need quite attentive belaying, too!  For anyone who prioritises smooth and fast rope handling over the other features in a standard GriGri, the Neox would definitely be worth a look when it lands in retailers next spring."

That’s a fancy looking boat anchor.

bearded sam wrote:

Also is this right hand specific like a Gri-Gri?

Sure looks like it from the photos. Unless they make a lefty version. 

How's your Romanian?

I really want to know how much it weighs.  It could be a great device for belaying easy-ish multipitch.  I.e. where you never take/lower but want some backup for the belayer.  The assisted tube devices mostly solve the "incapacitated belayer" scenario for moderate falls.  But they don't catch FF2 (may in fact do worse than ATC according to Jim Titt graphs).  And while I hope I'd recognize FF2 potential and prevent it, to me the whole point of assisted devices is to handle the unexpected.  The Revo can catch FF2 according to youtube, so I'm assuming this will too.  But the Revo is too heavy.

Another thing I really like about speed-based mechanisms is their independence of rope diameter. With every other type of device, every time you read about somebody else's experience, you have to wonder how it translates to your rope. Or your partner's rope. Or the rope you're thinking of buying. With this, the only rope-dependent aspect would be how much the belayer suffers before the 4 m/s triggers. Or maybe how much the catching mechanism damages the rope. But for unlikely-fall scenarios those concerns are secondary.

EDIT: scratch all that - the Revo reference in the UK Climbing article made me think this was similar, but people later pointed out it's not.

Serge S wrote:

Another thing I really like about speed-based mechanisms is their independence of rope diameter. 

Do you have verification that it does have a speed-based mechanism? I've only seen that in the patent, but all the reviews that I've seen allude to the idea that there is no speed activation.

If it can't easily be used for ascending, descending, positioning, it may not see much guide adoption. GriGri is the device the AMGA SPI uses.

(yes, other devices are totally in the SOP, but not what the curriculum focuses on)