How to get better at 5.11 slabs at Suicide

Hey y'all,

I've toproped a couple of 5.11 slab routes at Suicide lately (Battle of the Bulge & Bunny Slope) and I found them both pretty challenging, basically falling my way up them. Obviously, more practice will help but I was wondering if anyone has some pointers, things that I might focus on in future sessions. 

Here are some more specific questions that crossed my mind while I was climbing:

1. How important are my shoes? I'm climbing in TC Pros that I've had resoled a couple times already. How much impact would shoes have on performance? My feet slid off a bunch and I wonder how much of this is the shoes versus me. How rigid do I want my shoes to be? Also, how tight are you cranking your laces? 

2. Where should I put my feet? Should I be trying to stick them on edges? dimples? etc. I'd imagine the answer to this is a bit of both and definitely depends on the particulars of a specific route but how do you judge what your feet will or won't stick to? 

3. How much do you use your hands? How hard should I be yarding on those micro-crimps? Am I pulling too much because of poor footwork? (probably) Do you find yourself crimping? palming? mantling?

4. How much do I need to be concerned about temps? Some of the comments I've read about these routes suggest they are easier in colder temps. While I'm sure that's true I'm still going to be working these things over the summer. Should I be getting up early? Am I still benefitting from climbing midday and greasing off holds?

Anyway, those are my thoughts. Any feedback or recommendations would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Sean

Calling Dimes…

Sean…. To get better at 5.11???? Climb a ton of 5.10 ones. 

Make peace with your maker.

Sean Sullivan wrote:

Hey y'all,

I've toproped a couple of 5.11 slab routes at Suicide lately (Battle of the Bulge & Bunny Slope) and I found them both pretty challenging, basically falling my way up them. Obviously, more practice will help but I was wondering if anyone has some pointers, things that I might focus on in future sessions. 

Here are some more specific questions that crossed my mind while I was climbing:

1. How important are my shoes? I'm climbing in TC Pros that I've had resoled a couple times already. How much impact would shoes have on performance? My feet slid off a bunch and I wonder how much of this is the shoes versus me. How rigid do I want my shoes to be? Also, how tight are you cranking your laces?

Shoes matter. If you're not begging to take them off at the end of a pitch, they're too loose.

 

2. Where should I put my feet? Should I be trying to stick them on edges? dimples? etc. I'd imagine the answer to this is a bit of both and definitely depends on the particulars of a specific route but how do you judge what your feet will or won't stick to? 

Depends, with experience you will find out what it depends on.

3. How much do you use your hands? How hard should I be yarding on those micro-crimps? Am I pulling too much because of poor footwork? (probably) Do you find yourself crimping? palming? mantling?

All the above, don't be afraid to do unorthodox moves.

4. How much do I need to be concerned about temps? Some of the comments I've read about these routes suggest they are easier in colder temps. While I'm sure that's true I'm still going to be working these things over the summer. Should I be getting up early? Am I still benefitting from climbing midday and greasing off holds?

Temps REALLY matter, don't even bother with the hard stuff in the sun in just about any temp. As you get better you can do harder stuff in higher temps.

Anyway, those are my thoughts. Any feedback or recommendations would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Sean

I'm always here for you 951-527-7959

TR lots of stuff to start out, the leads are almost all hairy.

Guidance from an *actual* longtime local/regular who has *actual* hard slab climbing history would be especially useful.

Does Hensel post up here at MP?

Edit:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/219262/Difficulty-of-Slab-Climbs

See 'henny', especially

apogee wrote:

Guidance from an *actual* longtime local/regular who has *actual* hard slab climbing history would be especially useful.

Does Hensel post up here at MP?

Edit:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/219262/Difficulty-of-Slab-Climbs

See 'henny', especially

Henny is HARD man!

What do the *s mean when you out them on either side of a word?

 bold

You familiar?

apogee wrote:

 bold

You familiar?

I guess not.

What’s your favorite hard slab at Suicide?

Look at the comments: mountainproject.com/route/1…

Solid advice by the user “dnaiscool”

I will preface this with, I don’t really climb anymore, but for the OP and per a specific request: here are a few possible suggestions that seemed to work pretty well in my past:

1. Place your feet with your eyes (always). Slab climbing requires precise execution. No just throwing your foot at some random feature.
2. Try to avoid using the phrase, “the shoe didn’t stick”. The shoe only does what you make it do. If it didn’t stick, you didn’t use the feature you were trying to stand on correctly.

3. Try to climb in temps between 50-60 degrees.
4. Use a board lasted shoe. I think Butora makes one, which Henny uses. Boreal might still make one as well. We learned to edge, so that is why a board lasted shoe is preferred. The Scarpa Le Menestral (no longer in production) was probably the best granite edging shoe ever made. Just my opinion, but I think Henny will agree. Probably not mandatory, but…..

5. Lots of bouldering at Rubidoux and Woodson. Specifically focused on some of the harder slab problems.

6. Try to avoid mantling. It’s almost never the best option. Many people try mantling on the crux of Disco Jesus when it is actually easier to just edge your way up onto the small knob (I hope I am remembering this correctly).

Just some random thoughts. Hope some might be helpful.

Dimes

Seth Bleazard wrote:

Look at the comments: mountainproject.com/route/1…

Solid advice by the user “dnaiscool”

I'm confused by this: "If your feet start to slip then straighten out your elbows,  "

I can't visualize what this means or imagine why it would help. Straighten the elbows meaning reach higher up? Why? In order to shift your center of mass forward? In order to mantle?

Ben Crowell wrote:

I'm confused by this: "If your feet start to slip then straighten out your elbows,  "

I can't visualize what this means or imagine why it would help. Straighten the elbows meaning reach higher up? Why? In order to shift your center of mass forward? In order to mantle?

Pushes the upper body outwards, better attack angle for the feet, more force at the toes, or whatever. But effectiveness depends on how good your handholds are, can you straighten the elbows and keep your hands on??

Here's an article I wrote for Rock and Ice/Climbing Mag on slab climbing technique. I laughed when they called it the "dark art of slab climbing."

Thanks for all the thoughtful responses! I look forward to putting this advice into practice. 

Master the technique of Stink Buggin

Dimes!!!! Good to see you. Life is good? 

Get some EB's.  Worked for the legends....

Wait for Winter.

climb at Tahquitz till then!

David Katz wrote:

Master the technique of Stink Buggin

Stink buggin?

“Stink buggin?”

I’ve always found the term a tad distasteful, and not particularly reflective of good slab technique, since it is characterized by butt out technique (as opposed to standing up, weight over feet, heels low). But there is certainly merit in the slow, fluid, methodical movement that is typical of the little black beetle. Maybe I’ve misinterpreted the term, tho.