Death at the City of Rocks

https://nelsonmortuary.com/obituaries/kyle-melby

On Monday, May 26th my family and I were on site for a horrific accident in the Bloody Fingers corridor at the City.  We were finishing up a climb on Bloody Fingers and the adjacent Mystery Achievement. We had ropes up on both routes and were sharing laps with an experienced married couple - having a great time. Lunchtime approached and a group of four young men joined with general knowledge of the local routes but very little beta or local knowledge and no guidebook. We helped them identify the routes and they borrowed our stick clip for the first mystery achievement bolt. Concurrently Kyle Melby lead Twist and Crawl, the 5.8 between our two routes.  My son was reading a book directly under the Twist and Crawl route while we were wrapping up and I had a premonition that he needed to move, so I asked him to move 50 feet over and next to a shaded boulder.  Just an inkling in the back of my head that he wasn't in a safe place. I thought nothing of it, just did the Dad instinct thing and asked him to move. 

As Kyle was leading and his partners were preparing to climb Mystery Achievement, we packed up ropes and headed down to the car to get back to camp and pack up for the weekend. 60 seconds down the trail and we heard him hit the rocks. Kyle had been lowered off the end of his rope; the system wasn't closed. While we didn't see the fall, we understand he fell feet first onto a flake lower down the route, then tilted backward and landed head first crushing his helmet and sustaining a horrible head injury. Total fall was estimated at 35 feet. I had a trauma kit in my truck, grabbed it and the InReach then headed back up the trail. We were able to stop the bleeding fairly quickly, conduct a visual inspection, C spine assessment and got an SOS out. Only injury appeared to be his head which was miraculous. Kyle was belligerent and disoriented. We couldn't keep him still and all he wanted was to leave the area. With the help of several other trained first responders, we were able to calm him down but couldn't keep him still. Within the hour a helicopter was on the ground at Bread Loaves, and several local agencies were on the scene to help transport him via backboard to my truck and up to the helicopter. 

He was coherent but experiencing internal bleeding and quickly transported to Pocatello. We thought he would be fine. Two days later he had died. Presumably of brain swelling but the hospital was unable to provide any details. 

Our condolences to Kyle's family and friends. And thanks to the other first responders on scene, the local agencies, Stephen King with state park, and the LifeFlight team. 

In looking back at the experience, this was an avoidable accident. And one my family and I have learned from as relatively new climbers. Always, always close the system with appropriate knots. Learn about the local climbing area - nuances like long ropes standard at the City are important to learn about. My premonition to move my son from the fall area could have come with a friendly question to the group climbing about whether or not they knew the route was long and a 60 might not be enough. But I withheld, not wanting to impose on others' climbing experience. I wish I had said something. It's easy to take offense when others impose on your climbing experience, but I'll go the extra mile next time. 

My son and I are going to organize a set of educational materials with local climbing groups, friends at Exum and the rangers at the City. Right now the signage around such matters as general climbing safety, long ropes standard at the City and other matters are limited to the Bath Rock parking area. We hope to get them posted around the City in places like the toilets which have our undivided attention at least once a day. I'll post the materials here once we develop them for feedback and ideas around how we can encourage others to avoid such mistakes in the future. 

I am sorry you had to experience this trauma but I am glad for him and his friends that you were there to assist. 

For the record, the guidebook description gives the route length at 115 feet. The MP description gives it as 110 feet and specifies 70 M rope. That is 229 feet plus a few inches. So for 115 feet, even a 70 would dictate knots in ends. 

I sometimes wonder when I hear about these kinds of 100% avoidable accidents if people have not done the math to understand the length of their ropes. 60M is at least 20 feet too short to lower from this route. 

Perhaps if new signage is posted a meters to feet graphic would be useful. At the very least this info might prompt newer climbers to think about these basic considerations more thoroughly.

I’m so sorry to read this, my thoughts are with Kyle’s family and with his belayer.

Thanks for sharing, very succinct 

Sorry to hear this. Good on you for helping. RIP. 

Blaming it on rope length is akin to blaming guns for violence more than the reasons that lead to the trending toxic use of them.  I don't care if it was a 50m rope.  All would be well if younger/newer climbers would focus on climbing at less populated crags, learning in an intimate setting with a lone partner. Somehow, the transition of learning to climb in gyms and sport vs the alpine, has led to a misleading notion that there is safety in numbers, when the inverse is true.  The City of Rocks has many quality walls, of which Bread Loaves is by far the least safe.  Having that many folks converging on and conversing in such a small space detracts from the belayer and leader paying attention to each other.  That is the sad reality of why most deaths in climbing occur at urban crags, not in the mountains.  Due to its proximity, City of Rocks is essentially a Salt Lake City crag and Bread Loaves requires zero energy, god forbid wasting any of that precious resource, to access. There are a hundred more walls between the City and Castle Rocks State Park most of which have just as good of routes if not better than the overcrowded Bread Loaves.  Be adventurous, explore and focus on each other when roped up.

Dow Williams wrote:

Blaming it on rope length is akin to blaming guns for violence more than the reasons that lead to the trending toxic use of them.  I don't care if it was a 50m rope.  All would be well if younger/newer climbers would focus on climbing at less populated crags, learning in an intimate setting with a lone partner. Somehow, the transition of learning to climb in gyms and sport vs the alpine, has led to a misleading notion that there is safety in numbers, when the inverse is true.  The City of Rocks has many quality walls, of which Bread Loaves is by far the least safe.  Having that many folks converging on and conversing in such a small space detracts from the belayer and leader paying attention to each other.  That is the sad reality of why most deaths in climbing occur at urban crags, not in the mountains.  Due to its proximity, City of Rocks is essentially a Salt Lake City crag and Bread Loaves requires zero energy, god forbid wasting any of that precious resource, to access. There are a hundred more walls between the City and Castle Rocks State Park most of which have just as good of routes if not better than the overcrowded Bread Loaves.  Be adventurous, explore and focus on each other when roped up.

Wow, you really nailed it. 

Addendum: 4 likes - how many noticed the sarcasm? 

Dow Williams wrote:

Blaming it on rope length is akin to blaming guns for violence more than the reasons that lead to the trending toxic use of them.  I don't care if it was a 50m rope.  All would be well if younger/newer climbers would focus on climbing at less populated crags, learning in an intimate setting with a lone partner. Somehow, the transition of learning to climb in gyms and sport vs the alpine, has led to a misleading notion that there is safety in numbers, when the inverse is true.  The City of Rocks has many quality walls, of which Bread Loaves is by far the least safe.  Having that many folks converging on and conversing in such a small space detracts from the belayer and leader paying attention to each other.  That is the sad reality of why most deaths in climbing occur at urban crags, not in the mountains.  Due to its proximity, City of Rocks is essentially a Salt Lake City crag and Bread Loaves requires zero energy, god forbid wasting any of that precious resource, to access. There are a hundred more walls between the City and Castle Rocks State Park most of which have just as good of routes if not better than the overcrowded Bread Loaves.  Be adventurous, explore and focus on each other when roped up.

The rope length issue has caught more experienced climbers. Rich Romano, one of the boldest Gunks climbers, was lowered off of the end of his rope at COR in 2010. An experienced local climber died in a similar accident at Castle in the past couple of years. I think that local knowledge and rope length for pitches is important, as is developing safety checks for routine operations. 

To the OP, thank you for your assistance to Kyle. The best to you and your family. Thanks for taking the initiative to make the outreach materials. Info on the conversion between common rope lengths (60/70/80 meters to feet) would be helpful. 

If you're dealing with feet for a route, and meters for a rope, just forget about meters and use yards. Multiply your (presumed) rope length by 3. Those extra 3ish inches (per meter) mean you'll have rope to STILL tie in both ends, build anchor, whatever.

Here's how this can play out in real life:

Bath rock routes are 200 to 230 feet, topping out. So, on the shorter side, my 70 gave us 210 feet (using 3x70). Plenty for the Tree start.

Party of 3, I climb last. All 3 are tied in, we will top out on the single full length line. No one can see anyone, so I know to climb when my rope comes taut.

I watch the rope, off it goes, off I go.

Then stop. For quite awhile.

Way up top, where the few bits of gear are?

The route meanders widely.

Which means that we used a lot more rope. Probably simul climbed a bit before I was on the topmost belay from partner 2. Still good, it was all planned.

This is one of the easiest faces in the whole park, but....

Always pay attention to rope lengths. Have a plan.

And please, please, close the system.

Accidents like this are so heartbreaking. Condolences to all involved, climbers, bystanders, family, friends, community and rescuers. We all care, it's how climbing works. We take care of, and care for, each other.

Best, Helen

I like the restroom reading idea. Keep it very short and simple though!

EDIT to add, a meter is about 39 inches, to a yard being 36.

@Dow Williams, nowhere in my post did I blame rope length on this accident. The responsibility for this accident is 100% on the climbing team. Tragically there is a fatality as a result.

Beyond using a guidebook, understanding rope lengths and Knotting the end of your rope, other analysis is often needed. 

I happen to be at CoR right now. The other day we did a route on the Gallsone. Length on MP is listed as 90 feet. The anchors you lower from are above a route that is listed as 85 feet. However the 5.7 Crack route I did starts at the place as the sport route, follows a diagonal Crack to the right, then goes up a wide bit then traverses back left at the top to the anchors. It was obvious to me that the amount of rope used would be well more than the 90 feet suggested on MP. We were using an 80 M rope and made some approximate calculations, suggested I'd have no problem lowering off and would not have to belay from the top. But we still said "just in case"  and put a secure knot at the belay end. Sure enough, my partner said I was past half rope by the time I got to the anchor, so about 140 feet.  So a 80 or 70 would get you safely lowered but with a 60 you'd have to belay from the top. 

You have to think about these complications for every route you do. No guidebook info  or MP comments, which may be inaccurate, should substitute for your own thinking. 

Edited to say, we may have had the 70 that day, but analysis regarding 60 M probably still applies. I'm on the road  now. When I get settled in I'll check my notes and make comment re route length correction on route page. 

Always, always, always tie a not in the end of the rope. Safety in climbing over a long period of time comes from developing good habits, and using good judgement. Any good habits that are quick to execute are rarely a bad idea. Some of my partners think I'm being nervous-nelly when I tie a knot in the rope at the bottom of a pitch that we clearly have enough rope for safely lowering. I'm okay with that. I do so simply because the benefit of possibly avoiding a horrible accident someday by tying that knot, practicing that habit always, totally outweighs the cost of 3 seconds to tie the knot. 

Trying to determine the accurate length of a pitch, (and therefore the amount of rope needed to safely lower) from guidebooks and sources like MP, is not reliable as these resources are produced by people who make mistakes. (as we all do on occasion) Converting meters to yards? Or yards to meters, to make safe decisions is ridiculously complicating a situation that can be made safe by just tying the f'in knot.

I'm so sad to keep reading about these types of accidents in climbing which are 100% preventable.  

When I'm standing on the ground belaying, I either tie in to the rope, or tie a knot in the end. Always. With all of the accidents that are similar to this that occur, there is simply no excuse not to.

By always tying a knot in the end, you soon get in the habit of making sure that the knot is removed before pulling the rope. If you only occasionally tie a rope end knot, it's easier to forget to untie the knot before you pull... Ask me how I know...

Sad deal. I offer my sincere condolences to Kyle’s Family and Friends.

In climbing I always say there are no absolutes - not always, or never… except for ONE thing.
I use a rope bag with the free end tied tied in or I have the free end tied into me- always!

Glen Prior wrote:

By always tying a knot in the end, you soon get in the habit of making sure that the knot is removed before pulling the rope. If you only occasionally tie a rope end knot, it's easier to forget to untie the knot before you pull... Ask me how I know...

Yeah. I get funny looks at the gym when I close the system, but the whole point is to make it automatic. And to have a checklist.

Someone told me once that a lot of climbing accidents happen because people get complacent. So beginners are super cautious because they’re new, but more seasoned climbers can overlook things. I’m not commenting on this dreadful situation: it’s just a general observation.

So sad, condolences to Kyle’s Family and Friends. It's got to suck so bad for Kyles loved ones. Thanks for the story Brock and for trying your best, I'd heard about the accident earlier but not the route details. 

To the rest posting here, a friendly reminder that even if your rope will reach this year, it doesn't mean it will reach the next year or the year after. Ropes shrink, sometimes dramatically. You might lose 20 feet in a year, and your rope will be too short on the same route you did years back and made it down. I had it occur to me, an alert belayer caught it and I downclimbed. 

All we can do is try and be careful, one of my partners whom I really enjoy climbing with these days, insists that I NOT ties knots in the end while rapping. Sigh...sometimes that's a good idea and sometimes its a horrifically bad idea. Regardless, the very well known and experienced Alex Honnold got dropped and had the very thing that occurred to Kyle happen to him on a "lowly" 5.9 in 2016: he lived but got a broken back out of it. We all know the dangers, just need to remember to double check. 

Warm regards to all

Billcoe wrote:

All we can do is try and be careful, one of my partners whom I really enjoy climbing with these days, insists that I NOT ties knots in the end while rapping. Sigh...sometimes that's a good idea and sometimes its a horrifically bad idea. 

Specific to climbing (not canyoneering), in what instance is leaving your rope ends unknotted a good idea? If the thought is wind could whip your knotted ends and make them get stuck in an unreachable constriction, you could always just saddle bag. 

P B wrote:

Specific to climbing (not canyoneering), in what instance is leaving your rope ends unknotted a good idea? If the thought is wind could whip your knotted ends and make them get stuck in an unreachable constriction, you could always just saddle bag. 

That's the only pushback I've personally heard and it was only from one person. But I just did it anyway. And that same partner complained that saddle bagging takes too long. But I just did it anyway.

I'd personally rather tie knots and saddle bag if it's windy. 

I applaud the comments of Dow Williams here.  One has to climb as if one knows nothing about the route.  Even if the guidebook and/or MP has information, or another climber tells you something, don't assume.  You've got to take matters into your own hands and be self-reliant. 

All accidents hurt, but this is a second lower off the end of the rope one. Red rib, about 5 years ago. Belayer did not know to watch for a middle mark (dunno what happened on this latest one), and the system wasn't closed. Rope too short for the route.

I would also add, then?

Please, be very careful as newer climbers, especially choosing who you select to partner with. And, new is relative. I'm almost 10 years in and still consider myself newish. Yes, sometimes experienced climbers will casually climb together, but what you might not realize is how heavily we vet each other before doing so. I'm still not one to casually multipitch, or ice climb with. I'm basically luggage on those climbs. And alpine is a flat out no. And yes, anyone at all can mess up. But new carries additional hazards.

Don't take out totally new climbers unless you are prepared to take full responsibility for every bit of the climb. Both your lead, and everything the belayer should be doing. 

Assume a new person doesn't have the knowledge you do, and mitigate ahead of time for possibilities. That's why we are harping on closing systems. Have some idea if the route is doable, for your rope, experience, and the equipment you have. Not all bolted routes are sport routes. Carry a bail buner or two, and just quit, if it's getting hinky. 

Figure out ahead of time how you will get off the route. Will you have time for this? Not just darkness, but weather creeping in?

It's a long long list, but, all these variables are, honestly, what we love about climbing outside in the first place. Fun and interesting places like COR make it even more appealing and challenging.

But, it is outside.

Even if you and your partner do everything right?

That low probability event might still happen. To anyone.

And yes, that means you. 

So do everything you can to mitigate the easy stuff. Every time. 

Cuz we all want you to live to climb another day, eh?

Best, Helen

Condolences to friends and family.  Was climbing at the City last week in this area and I was surprised at the number of folks congregating in the area.  Bunch of classics there for sure.

Quite awhile ago, as part of my routine, I got used to just automatically putting an overhand on a bite in the blunt end of the rope.  Easy thing to do as a habit.  Last week at camp we were discussing this accident and someone commented that they watched me knot the end of the rope when I took it out of my pack earlier in the day, even for the short route we were climbing.  Yep. 

Crowded crag or not, stuff happens.  A number of years ago climbing at El Chorro with a new partner...I flaked the rope and they commented on my knotting the end, "yeah, I really should do that."  No one else around.  We started doing routes, and, I decided to head to a higher anchor on a route without giving it much thought.  When my partner was lowering me, the knot banged into her GriGri.  I was still 30 feet off  the ground and besides the higher anchor I'd gone to, she'd decided to back off a ways to get a better view.  Very experienced climber.  No distractions.

Given the years, its pretty easy to remember all the friends and acquaintances we've known who failed to finish their tie in knot, forgot the length of the rope when lowering or rappelling, had a miscommunication for lowering instead of rappelling, didn't double check their rappel/lower rig prior to launch, etc.  Simple little things.  If you get out a bunch (or not!), all these little errors are out there lurking.  Be diligent about checking your situation.  And, put into practice routines that double check.  And, at least try to say something to folks you see who may not have their safety as a priority (hard...I know!).

Let's be safe out there!

P B wrote:

Specific to climbing (not canyoneering), in what instance is leaving your rope ends unknotted a good idea? If the thought is wind could whip your knotted ends and make them get stuck in an unreachable constriction, you could always just saddle bag. 

One thing I've heard people say (and sometimes reasoned myself) is that if you tie knots in the ends and forget to untie them, when you pull the ropes they will get stuck.  On multipitch, ice climbing, alpine climbing, whatever, that could be problematic. 

I am NOT trying to make a case to leave ropes unknotted.  I think knotting the ends is best practice, and threads like this remind me to be more focused about this. 

Thank you for the reminder.

Condolences and thoughts.