Alien X Cams - comparisons and first impressions

Just got the passive rated Alien X in and got other micros out to compare the dimension I was most interested in that was not really clarified online - head width.

I wasn’t too surprised it’s nominally the same as zeros, dragonfly, and totems but it will perhaps saw into tight spots a touch easier bc the rivets are lower profile.

I don’t know where my calipers are right now for hard numbers.

I took some headshots to show the contributing feature to allow a passive rating and now I see I don’t have a comparison to their small units to see if they have the same geometry - if they do it may indicate they would take a passive placement but did not want to rate it.

Anyhow I’ll be taking these out in OK granite and California granite over the next two weeks to see how I like them compared to zeros and dragonflies. So far they are smoother than the zeros but not as floppy as the flies so it’s a nice middle ground.

Definitely share your XP with them here as well.

Width differences in the camstops

Not a fan of the doubled dynema slings on the thumb loop.  One good whip and the thumb loop is probably kinked. 

Double J wrote:

Not a fan of the doubled dynema slings on the thumb loop.  One good whip and the thumb loop is probably kinked. 

Documented to be the case for dragonflies--the new alien cable and sheath plastic looks potentially slightly more robust? OP please whip on your brand new cams with the sling extended and let us know. Thanks a bunch for these pics and the writeup!

I'm curious why one would go for these over Totems? 

bearded sam wrote:

I'm curious why one would go for these over Totems? 

Weight. Bulk. 

I love totems but I also love tiny footprint cams too that get the job done. I carry triples of the small totems a lot on new routes but I'm only hiking 0.5-1 miles and not gaining much elevation.

FIXE Alien X #1 (2023).

After first gen revo, Fixe is getting none of my $ for cams. I was so pissed i got rid of perfectly good CCH cams after that BS. Zeros and dragonflys only for me.

ryan climbs sometimes wrote:

That passive rating seems like a gimic 

The cams do look nice though definitely composition for the other similar cams out there 

Maybe Ryan Jenks could test that given their QC history.

Idk the guy.

How similar these look to Zero Friends I was wondering if they’re out of the same shop. 

I don't think the passive rating is a gimmick. I've never placed a cam passively but you know what I have done? Umbrelled a crap placement. I think having the cam stops could prevent umbrella-ing the cam and destroying it. This doesn't fix a poor placement but could save your cam from the trash. 

Miles, did you get a chance to put these to use? whats good to climb in the ta's right now with the heat building in (shady side of Mt. Scott?)?  Where are you going climbing in Cali?

Thanks for all the cool shit you've put up, climbs and reviews alike.

J I wrote:

Miles, did you get a chance to put these to use? whats good to climb in the ta's right now with the heat building in (shady side of Mt. Scott?)?  Where are you going climbing in Cali?

Thanks for all the cool shit you've put up, climbs and reviews alike.

 I’ve only used the red Alien X so far but didn’t whip. Just a 5.9 roof situation but it was a lot of fun. If I had fallen it would have been the piece to keep me off the deck or not.

Follower retrieved the tightly cammed Red X no problem.

On a delayed layover right now heading to the Sierras as I type - we have a lot of stuff on the table but going to gauge conditions tomorrow and get to work!

The guy I’m going with likes to climb hard so I’m sure we will test the cams inadvertently lol

As far as the TAs currently it’s rough and why I’m sneaking off to elevation. Still you can get on whatever as long as you start early. 6 AM to 1 PM is tolerable with 3 liters of water but if you plan to climb in the afternoon the Narrows can be manageable due to shade and the taller climbs get wind. Otherwise Lower Mount Scott is the afternoon hangout.

Ideally it’s best to do short missions and get tacos for lunch and the heat turns on.

ryan climbs sometimes wrote:

2-4kn seem like it’s just gonna umbrella. The cams iv whipped on passively were old bd rated to 10kn 

These sizes are rated to 5kn placed passively, if I read correctly. I would expect to implode one on a high force whip but likely would hold a lot of normal falls.

I got to use these in the Bishop-June Lake area this last week and never had any issue of course since they’re brand new. No whips on these finger cams though…

I stopped by Fixe in Bishop and Tim said the shipment of US Alien X were sitting in LA yesterday, so they should be listed and shipping soon.

The most critical placement I made with an Alien X (yellow) was at Stone Crusade to keep the pad from blowing away as a storm passed by to the SW. 

If the pad blew out the Bird downclimb would have been more heady for sure. Soft landing but not my ideal way to end a great trip!

Pro Gumby Tip: if you ever want to recreate that image go in the morning for the proper lighting. Catching a storm in the morning will be harder to do!

If these have the same quality/reputation as the Aline Lite or Alien Revo I'd stay away. the QC from fixe is so poor.