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Semi-static line for top rope solo

Original Post
William NA · · Akron · Joined Feb 2023 · Points: 0

I have heard of people using static lines in a top rope solo setup but is it safe to use a semi-static line for this? I am asking because it is about 50 dollars cheaper for me to get a semi-static line than a fully static one, and I am on a budget.

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

Absolutely, just make sure your primary device is a progress capture of some sort so it’s not allowing any slack to accumulate. Same as a static. 

Garrett Weaver · · High Falls, NY · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0

I would caution against using any rope that isn't static to TR solo. There is a much higher likelihood of a rope cutting on a sharp edge if it is not fully static. It's definitely worth the extra $50. Infact, it will last so much longer that you will save more then $50 not buying a new rope so soon.

Andy Wiesner · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 35

Static ropes cut too. Regardless of the type of rope, a soloist needs to know how to identify and manage dangerous edges (e.g. with appropriate re-belays). 

I would use a semi static line. I usually have a dynamic rope because I may be leading etc. in the same session.  But the rope selection is only part of the picture. 

abe r · · Boise, ID · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 195
Garrett Weaver wrote:

I would caution against using any rope that isn't static to TR solo. There is a much higher likelihood of a rope cutting on a sharp edge if it is not fully static. It's definitely worth the extra $50. Infact, it will last so much longer that you will save more then $50 not buying a new rope so soon.

no offense but you got this completely backwards. static lines are in fact MORE prone to cutting over edges. The fact that they don't stretch means you get concentrated areas of a rope that rub on a local sharp spot or in other words. the length of rope taking the abrasion is less therefore more force is being applied to that local spot on the rope, over and over.

That being said, I like TR soloing on a static haha. Not having the stretch especially when you working hard things with lox cruxes is nice. Just be cognizant that a static line's only benefit is no stretch, a dynamic rope is far better in every other regard.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

As someone whose primary method of climbing for several years was TR solo i found that semi static is the sweet spot for TRS. It's way closer to a static line than a dynamic but that little bit of stretch is really nice sometimes. 

If you're going to be doing a lot of TRS then it's really hard to beat semi static

Garrett Weaver · · High Falls, NY · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0
abe r wrote:

no offense but you got this completely backwards. static lines are in fact MORE prone to cutting over edges. The fact that they don't stretch means you get concentrated areas of a rope that rub on a local sharp spot or in other words. the length of rope taking the abrasion is less therefore more force is being applied to that local spot on the rope, over and over.

That being said, I like TR soloing on a static haha. Not having the stretch especially when you working hard things with lox cruxes is nice. Just be cognizant that a static line's only benefit is no stretch, a dynamic rope is far better in every other regard.

This is bad and dangerous advice! The reason you use static ropes for building TR anchors is because they don't stretch and won't cut over edges as easily.  Dynamic ropes can get cut when loaded repeatedly over the same spot on  a sharp edge, which is exactly what you are doing when you TR solo. Please don't get anybody hurt by recommending dangerous advice, especially when that person could be climbing alone. USE A STATIC ROPE WHEN BUILDING TR ANCHORS OR TR SOLOING! If not, you are putting yourself at risk!

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

@Garret Weaver I'm concerned with the misinformation you're pushing regarding any rope having an increased margin of safety on sharp edges by virtue of its degree of dynamic elongation. Please don't do this.

Andy Wiesner wrote:

Static ropes cut too. Regardless of the type of rope, a soloist needs to know how to identify and manage dangerous edges (e.g. with appropriate re-belays)

I would use a semi static line. I usually have a dynamic rope because I may be leading etc. in the same session.  But the rope selection is only part of the picture. 

This is the only sound information regarding safety over sharp edges, and in addition to re-belays I would add protective sleeves as an option when necessary to mitigate this hazard. Understand your systems and be safe out there!

Garrett Weaver · · High Falls, NY · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0

This is the best rope for solo TR hands down!

An adaptable static rope designed to excel in many applications, our 7/16" SuperStatic2 provides consistent interaction with a wide range of gear. Ideal for technical rescues, rope access and mountain operations when used as a main or belay line.

Below is a link to Sterling Ropes website:

https://sterlingrope.com/7-16-superstatic2/

abe r · · Boise, ID · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 195
This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 72
Garrett Weaver wrote:

I would caution against using any rope that isn't static to TR solo. There is a much higher likelihood of a rope cutting on a sharp edge if it is not fully static. It's definitely worth the extra $50. Infact, it will last so much longer that you will save more then $50 not buying a new rope so soon.

Holy mis information batman.
Sheath mass % and overall diameter is way more important than static, semi, or dynamic.

If you really want to edge resistance get a rope with an aramid sheath.

Garrett Weaver · · High Falls, NY · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0
abe r wrote:

First off, lay the crack pipe down for a second.

2nd off, the only "advice" I gave was to be cognizant that statics dont stretch so they are more prone to abrasion and cutting at concentrated spots on a rope.

3rd, who the hell is building single pitch anchors with a dynamic rope haha? in my experience thats only done on multi pitch where you build your anchor using the rope as a nifty, quick trick kinda deal. Single pitch anchors are duh gonna be made of static material like dynemma, draws, etc

"First off, lay the crack pipe down for a second"

You have been flagged Abe! Don't speak to anybody that way dude. I don't have an issue with drugs, but if I did you would be making fun of someone based on a mental health disorder (addiction). That is no different then discounting someone because of their religion,  skin color or sexual preference.  It's ok we disagree on which TR solo setup to use, but we shouldn't be using hateful language towards mental health disorders like addiction.

abe r · · Boise, ID · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 195

^i for sure liked that comment

ubu · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 10

1. Managing sharp edges needs to be considered regardless of the rope used.

2. Assuming you pay attention to #1, and despite the strong opinions being shared in this thread, it does not make a whit of difference whether you use static or dynamic rope for TRS.  Personally I prefer dynamic rope to make falls a bit more comfy (and before someone asks: yes, I use a toothed device, take falls all the time, and the rope is just fine).

Eli W · · Oregon · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 0

1. Pretty much every “static” rope (not cord) sold by a climbing shop is in fact semistatic, and true statics in 10mm+ range are stiff and generally a PITA to deal with.

2. Rope pro is much easier to handle with a semistatic— it just needs to be fixed the rope itself. Dynamics have enough stretch that if you need to protect an edge halfway up the route you need to fix it to the route. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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