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Grand Teton / Upper Exum Conditions for July 1st/2nd weekend?

Original Post
Jack Bushway · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 10

Hi there,

Interested in potentially climbing the grand the weekend of July 1/2, but I'm wondering how much snow and ice will be in play for upper exum? What about descending OS? The approach? Any info would be appreciated, thanks!

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

Yer two plus weeks out, it could be clear or icy. Depends on what happens between now and then. 

tetonclimbing.blogspot

Jack Bushway · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 10

I see. Thanks

Brandon Marshal · · Victor, ID · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 1,040

Snow above 10K the last three days. According to local senior Exum guide Monday "the Grand is going to be full on this week." A first hand report from guided summit last week was mixed ice conditions, two tools and crampons, via Owen-Spalding. That said, a lot can change in two weeks. Before this latest precipitation upper Exum ridge was climbed in dry condition. My gut would tell me Owen-Spalding descent would remain partially snow covered requiring axe and crampons on July 1, unless summer finally decides to come and unleash some all day rays. Descent from Upper Saddle should melt any day now.

trailridge · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 20

Yer gonna die..good luck

Jack Bushway · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 10
trailridge wrote:

Yer gonna die..good luck

Thank you thank you

Jen Harlan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 0
Brandon Marshal wrote:

. According to local senior Exum guide Monday "the Grand is going to be full on this week."

a) What does the Grand is going to be full on this week mean? Full-on nasty?

RANGERS:

June 22, 2023

"Multiple winter storms have impacted the upper mountain in the recent weeks. Travel on steep, exposed snow is unavoidable above the Petzoldt Caves camp zone.  Summer route is recommended from the meadows to the moraine camping zone. And from the moraine to the Lower Saddle, the winter route is still the best option. Be especially aware of exposure to recent rockfall anywhere below the summer route "fixed lines". From the Lower Saddle to the summit, expect to encounter winter climbing conditions, including ice, snow, and verglas. Crampons and ice axe are highly recommended for safe travel up the Grand Teton as of today."

Picture of the Owen Chimney from the rangers. It also snowed again on the 23rd.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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