New Petzl Spirit Carabiners

I haven't seen any discussion about these seemingly new Spirit carabiners, and I was wondering what folks thought. I love Petzl carabiners, and was surprised when I saw these new "rack packs" popping up at retailers. They have holes near the gate, I assume to reduce weight, and now come in a variety of colors. Do any of you rack your cams with something other than wiregates? I have only ever used Spirits for quickdraws.

These are great! I have a few and use them mainly for my ladders daisies when aid climbing, they fit the shape of the ladder and daisy slings nicely.  pretty light with great action

Looking up their weight and it's less than expected at 37g. For comparison Wild Country Heliums are actually heaver at 38g.

But you got me looking and the Edelrid Mission bent gates also come in a rackpack and are only 29 grams! Racking on solid gates actually seems pretty reasonable now.

Austin Donisan wrote:

Looking up their weight and it's less than expected at 37g. For comparison Wild Country Heliums are actually heaver at 38g.

But you got me looking and the Edelrid Mission bent gates also come in a rackpack and are only 29 grams! Racking on solid gates actually seems pretty reasonable now.

Continuing on this slight digression, I love my DMM Chimeras for racking keylock biners. A little heavier at 31 grams per, but still pretty darn light.

The only thing that makes me wary of the Edelrid Mission is that the basket thickness (rope bearing surface) is thinner than all my other carabiners, including the nano and chimera. I think taking falls on these might possibly be tougher on the rope. Edit: yes, I'm talking about the new Mission II.

Or just rope drag in general.

It's the Edelrid Mission II (2), the original missions are vastly different. The Mission II's are good and bad. The nose profile is awesome, it's thin nose and isn't very "hooked" so they are great for clipping loaded slings or anything that is fiddly. They weren't as light as I hoped, Edelrid claims 29 grams but they were consistently 31 grams on my scale. They are smaller than I hoped, closer to a Camp Nano than to a regular sized carabiner. The rope bearing surface is quite thin. Small size + solid gate = small gate clearance. They are pretty expensive too. They aren't quite a home run for me and won't be replacing my Camp Nanos for trad climbing.

If Camp ever makes a Nano with a Dyon-style nose and gate, at around 26 or 27 grams, I'll be all over those.

Dyons are still my favorite lightweight keylocks. Camp claims 33g, a few of mine are, most are 34g, some are 35g and a few are 36g. It seems to vary with color and production run. I use them on the rope end of alpine draws and I have a "rack" of sport climbing draws made with them. 

If these new spirits are consistently 37g then that's a very compelling option for sport climbing. 

That is interesting they're selling a rack pack now, I don't believe they've targeted any of their carabiners for racking in recent years. Even the Ange (a favorite with guides) only comes in orange, blue and gray, and would be a great racking option. 

The hole by the gate hinge in the new spirit is nothing new, the SmD has that already for tying on a microtrax or tibloc, but the holes on the nose feel kinda like they're just showing off. The old spirit was 39g so they saved 2g with all the holes. They are now in the ballpark for a racking option like the Camp Dyon, which I put on some cams like WC Friends with extendable slings, but for everything else I still think light is right and narrow profile is paramount, so the nano 22 is my go to. Shrouded, snagless noses are the most important to me on the rope end of alpine draws, and the BD oz is my favorite there, but those (and heliums, etc) are too fat to rack a bunch on gear loops.

I love the spirit for sport climbing, and that's where I think they will continue to be popular. Hopefully we don't see the noses breaking off soon... Lab testing in ideal conditions only shows so much.