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Moving to LA, best spot for outdoor climbing access?

Original Post
Josh Rymer · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 40

Thinking about moving to the LA area, and I want to live as close as possible to any of the major outdoor climbing areas they have. 

I climb mostly trad, will climb sport, and have 0 interest in boulders.

After prowling the maps here on MP seems like the Santa Monica mountains as well as the San Bernardino mountains are my best bet. What the mega crags nearby LA? within like an hour drive? I come from CO and WA, where depending on where you live you can get to mega crags such as Eldorado Canyon or Index in around an hour, while still living in major population areas. Anything similar to that in LA? Also, bonus points if there is nearby mountain biking.

Thanks 

Tristan P · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

You can get to a gym, that's 10 miles away, within an hour in LA

Ben Ha · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

if you want to live in LA proper the only option is Santa Monica mountain that might be within an hour drive. Everywhere else is riddle with traffic that can take anywhere from 2-3 hours :D. There is also alot of mtn biking trails around LA

Sean · · Oak Park, CA · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 4,762

only a small number of half decent cracks on the soft sandstone of Santa Monica Mtns. mostly sport crags. quality trad climbing is way out of LA at JTree or Idyllwild.  Big Bear (San Bernadino) has decent trad scattered amid the more abundant sport.  further out would be RR. or Yosemite Valley and Sierra Eastside way way to the north

also, LA traffic is much much worse than people from elsewhere think. work usu dictates where in nearby areas to live, for sake of everyday sanity. once that's sorted, then figure out the best times to escape to the rocks

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

How strictly are you defining "LA". To the locals answering, LA means something more specific than it means to out of state folks who often use the term to refer to the broader megalopolis of that region.

This is a relevant point since there are various locations further inland (the Inland Empire, they call it), that outsiders might lump in with LA, but locals consider a separate region.  These areas are closer to the major granite trad crags. If you live somewhere inland like Redlands you have pretty reasonable day trip access to JTree, Idyllwild, and Big Bear, and you are east of the worst traffic. But there are downsides to the IE, and it definitely isn't living in LA.

So I guess the biggest question with a LA move is "why". Not meaning that in a snarky sense, but LA is going to be a big step down in climbing access from the Front Range, so you'd better have some other good reason that is a big draw for the move. And whatever that thing is that draws you to LA, live close to that.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

I’m glad your psyched to move to LA.  Born and raised here. There are “mega crags” within anhour of the city.  Santa Monicas have good sport climbing, but if trad is your thing then it’s Tahquitz in the summer and Josh in the winter.  The Sierra and Eastside are a longer drive but expand your options exponentiall.  It’s easier to hit the trad areas if you live more on the northern or eastern side of town.  I think the crux of living in LA is living closer to the outdoors or coast and balancing your cultural interests all while keeping your driving time to a minimum.  Good luck and welcome.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Good answers above. LA is more of a concept then an exact place. For example I live in eastern Ventura county (Moorpark). I go to Stoney a lot- It’s a 15 min drive. I can be climbing at the A-hills (Lone Pine) in 3.5 hours. There are tons of smaller crags in the Southern Sierra that offer about 2,000 climbs - some roadside, some with less then a 1 hour hike.

Hope this helps.

Welcome to the jungle, we got fun n games. 

Karolina Charaziak · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

I live on the east side and it is an easy ~2h drive to two major trad climbing destinations (jtree in winter, and tahquitz in summer). Easy acces to sierra for alpine but that is 3h+ of driving. There are some smaller crags in Angeles national forest and Big Rock where you can do trad (less popular). The local crags (<1h away) are mostly sport. If you end up living on the west side add +1h for getting out of the city..

David Katz · · Calabasas, CA · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 1,016

Malibu Canyon Calabasas area puts you within minutes of the multiple Malibu Creek State Park climbing areas including Tunnel Boulders and more. Unbeatable place to live in Los Angeles and be close to the crags.

Josh Rymer · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 40

Thanks for the responses all. To answer some of the questions, the "why" is to support my partner's move, and the "where" is within an hour of Korea Town.

Tahquitz looks badass. Seems like living on the east side ish gives the best access since as many have mentioned J-Tree is closer that way too.

JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 17

If you have to work in a particular place, your best bet, sadly, is just to live close to work. 

Steven Lee · · El Segundo, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 385

Honestly I would just optimize to live near work. "1 hr from Ktown" during rush hour might only be a few miles. There will be little traffic heading to Tahquitz in the mornings (even on weekdays) so the impact in that direction would be maybe 10-15 min. I would choose to save your partner the hour every day over a <30 min on the way to climbing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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