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high-volume, wide toebox climbing shoe recommendations?
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I have been resoling some fiveten anasazi VCS for the past decade, but they are just falling apart to keep throwing any resole money at them. I tried the same size in the new "Adidas + Fiveten" version of the shoe and they are now not as accommodating to my unfortunately awkward foot size 9apps.ooo/ . Does anyone have any recommendations for shoes (preferably the 2-strap velcro to easily step into the shoe) for a wide toebox + high volume? I accept I will never have fantastic fittings of shoes, but maybe there's a hidden gem out there I haven't heard about after fastidiously resoling my shoes for far too long... |
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My forefoot is too wide for the newer (but I love the older models) Anasazis, but I have found good luck with the Evolv Kronos and Evolve Defy Lace for flat shoes. I love Red Chili Voltage Lace for something more downturned and high-performance. |
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Scarpa Veloce is by far the widest toe box shoe I have been able to find. I have wide, square duck feet, so those shoes are a god send for me. They are very soft, almost like wearing sticky rubber slippers. |
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I think I've had the anasazi vcs shoes for 14ish years and still have 2 left that can still be resoled. TC pros are my MP all day long shoe. The Scarpa vapor V worked well for me, old versions and now just switched to skwamas. Got the same size as my vapors but could probably have gotten 1/2 size smaller but still are loving them. I've always been one that doesn't wear a tight shoe, just snug. Below are a couple charts showing different shoe volumes etc. https://world.scarpa.com/page/climbing-collection-structure https://www.lasportiva.com/en/blog/post/how-to-choose-the-best-climbing-shoes https://www.lasportiva.com/media/MicrosoftTeams-image_31_.png |
Alan Rader wrote: What size are your skwamas compared to the TC pro? |
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Unparallel Climbing shoes are made with essentially the same volume and width of old 5.10 shoes (and the same great rubber). Shoes marked "LV" are low-volume models, but the regular ones are sure to fit my duck feet any day. |
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Skwama. Perfect balance between comfort and performance and accommodates a wide forefoot. |
Stever wrote: 5.10 Anasazi - 41.5 Scarpa Vapor V - 42.5 LAS TC Pro - 43.5 LAS Skwama - 42.5 LAS TX4 - 43 LAS Wild Cat 2 - 43.5 |
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I think that is exactly the type of feet I have? I love the LS Otakis. |
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As someone else mentioned above Unparallel are the spiritual successor to old 5.10. The Up Rise VCS is about as close to the old Fiveten Anasazi VCS as there is, but with a larger toe rubber patch. These are your best bet if you are looking for a direct replacement: https://www.unparallelsports.com/product/up-rise-vcs/ If you are looking for alternatives, Evolv and Acopa make some of the widest shoes on the market, although some of Evolv's performance offerings have lower volume toe boxes. From Acopa: The Fly and Chameleon are good velcro options, although they have some great wide-fit lace ups too. Acopa are good about answering questions so shoot them an email if you have any. From Evolv: The Rave is their classic Mocc, The Kronos is another flat moderate that is fairly wide too as someone else mentioned above. |
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I have high arch, wide forefoot, normal he'll and the evolve oracle is fantastic for sport climbing/the gym. I generally don't even have to lace it up unless there is heel hooking. Just don't try and climb cracks with it. For trad, I always come back to the tcpro. It doesn't fit me fantastically, but still better than any other high top. |
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Grandstones have an enormous toe box. |
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I have wide, high volume feet, and the Scarpa Force V shoes fit me well. |
