Climbing in the Rain

it’s my first summer in an area that is often wet or has rained in the last 24 hours and hasn’t dried yet. (North Conway, NH) What do people have in terms of tips/tricks to climbing in the rain/ wet rocks? Leave the chalk bag at home? Place extra pieces? Seek out cracks or avoid cracks? 

One warm Valentine’s Day I climbed in the rain.  In mid-February, why not, but the day wasn’t so awesome I’d be stoked to do it again.  We were in the Gunks. Friction on most of the rock was fine. Placed gear  normally on climbs I had wired. Northeast weather can be uncooperative.  The climbing gym and other interests or occupations may be more promising. 

Just climbed in the valley a few weeks ago when it rained. Like you said, chalk doesn't help much and be more vigilant when placing gear. We had more rope stretch when the rope was wet too. Watch for polished rock underneath running water, gets extra slippery. 

Otherwise, if you're OK with being wet, send on! 

So you’re saying I could’ve been at the voo sending this weekend???

Vedauwoo ^ friction is awful in the rain (but it does dry out quick...... but it has to stop raining sometime this month)

Climbing in the rain is my least favorite thing in the world. Rather have a tooth pulled or a recreational prostate exam. 

Powell Nicodemus wrote:

Vedauwoo ^ friction is awful in the rain (but it does dry out quick...... but it has to stop raining sometime this month)

Climbing in the rain is my least favorite thing in the world. Rather have a tooth pulled or a recreational prostate exam. 

Hopefully it stops soon, good to know it’s slippery when wet too.  Could’ve been a rough weekend haha

Living in CO now but grew up fighting rainy climbing days in the Southeast for 30+ years. The East coast rain is nothing like the West, so I'd take anything a westerner has to say with a grain of salt (no offense).

Climbing on wet rock sucks all the way around because not only is the rock slippery (duh), the gear starts to become more annoying to use (ropes don't slide through devices smoothly, etc.). Finding lichen-free rock would help some with friction, but...

Best to seek overhanging walls, and watch the temp/dewpoint spread closely for potential condensing of moisture on said walls. It's not always the same if it's just a quick storm moving through.

On a similar note: It's not unheard of to find wet rock on overhanging walls even on a sunny day in the South when the temp/dewpoint are close. This is especially true when the rock is cold and the air is warm. In NC we used to call this the "Iced Tea Effect". On the flip side, the other way around (warm rock/cold air) usually leads to very fast drying time and generally perfect conditions.

Good luck!

^ nicely done

Drop the grades a bit, have fun. I find it’s good footwork training.

Yes- extra pieces 

Spencer Ralston wrote:

it’s my first summer in an area that is often wet or has rained in the last 24 hours and hasn’t dried yet. (North Conway, NH) What do people have in terms of tips/tricks to climbing in the rain/ wet rocks? Leave the chalk bag at home? Place extra pieces? Seek out cracks or avoid cracks? 

Wait for the rain to stop.

Use more caution climbing wet rocks.

There are quite a few crags that stay dry in the rain here, be happy to send a message your way. We were out climbing dry rock all weekend

Spencer, the cave on Cathedral stays dry in most rain. Place nuts instead of cams whenever possible. Eyeless in Gaza can also be climbed in an absolute downpour.

Christian Eaton wrote:

Spencer, the cave on Cathedral stays dry in most rain. Place nuts instead of cams whenever possible. Eyeless in Gaza can also be climbed in an absolute downpour.

Are you saying a cam in wet rock will slide out?

top rope

Go deep water soloing and you won’t have to worry about the drink cuz you’ll be soaked