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FiveTen Hiangle/Hiangle Pro heel

Original Post
Stig B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

Looking for an indoor all around, semi agressive and semi soft shoe. I want to try the Hiangle or the Hiangle Pro. Nobody has them in stock so I have to order online.

How's the heel on them? I love the Evolv Shaman heel and I know the TN Pro heel is super baggy on my foot.

Steve Climber · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 659

I have the regular Hiangle, and the fit of it is great everywhere besides the heel unfortunately. Just not tight enough and doing techy or aggressive heel hooks never really feels super secure. Just as a reference, I wear the old Katanas for most things, and those heels fit me pretty well. Really though it rarely affects my climbing to the point where it feels like the difference between sending or not, but I'm also only climbing V4/5. FWIW it seems like I have issues finding shoes that feel really secure on the heel, so that could be more of a personal problem with the shape/size of my heels. 

With that being said, I love everything else about them for bouldering both indoor and outdoor. They're pretty soft but can still edge decently, and the sensitivity and stickiness of the rubber is awesome. Also doesn't hurt that they seem to almost always be on sale on the Adidas website.

Sam Ehmann · · Midwest · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 54

I think that the heel on the Hiangle is quite deep. In fact, it locked so hard on my foot then when I tried them on in a store I needed assistance from an employee to get them off my foot. Based off of other shoes you have tried, it sounds like you have shallow heels, as the Shamens have a fairly shallow heel and fit you well, and the TN pros are pretty deep and were baggy. I think your best bet will be to look for models with shallower heels which can be hard to find in bouldering shoes. 

Here is a list of some good options to look in to:

Scarpa is probably your best bet, especailly if you have narrow feet. Almost every shoe has a farily shallow heel, I would particularly look at the Drago, the Instinct VS for a stiffer option, and the Instinct VSR for a softer option.

Tenayas could also be a good option, they all run on the softer side and while I am less familiar with their range than other brands, I believe that the Oasi, Iatai, and Mundaka all have farily shallow heels. The Mastia heel is not too deep but it is very wide, the Indalo is quite deep.

I would avoid all the UP models besides the regulus, but the regulus is on the stiffer side and probably not what you are looking for.

From La Sportiva: the Genius, Futura, Testarossa, and Theory are all on the soft to very soft end with shallow heels. I would avoid any shoe with the S-Heel like the Skwama and Otaki, and the Solution heel may be too deep. If you are interested in the Solutions, make sure you try the Solution Comp because they actually have a lower-volume heel than the standard model and may fit better.

The Gamma and Enzo from Acopa could also be good options. The gamma is one of the widest bouldering shoes on the market if you need the extra room.

Hope this helps!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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